The oasis city of Al Ain, about an hour and a half from Abu Dhabi and Dubai, is home to one of the largest forts in the United Arab Emirates. Al Jahili Fort is a beautiful mudbrick fortress that offers tourists and residents a captivating glimpse into the culture and history of the Emirates.
Tourists often complain that the UAE has no culture or history due to its rapid development. They obviously spend all their time taking selfies at the Burj Kalifa or hanging out in the malls of Dubai. If you want to see the historical sights of the UAE, then Al Jahili Fort in Al Ain should definitely be on your to-do list.
Besides the stunning mudbrick architecture, Al Jahili Fort has an informative display and video on the fort’s restoration and a fascinating photography exhibition of the British explorer Wilfred Thesiger’s journeys across the Empty Quarter in the 1940s.
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Quick Guide to Al Jahili Fort
Opening Hours: 9:00 AM to 7:00 PM daily
Suggested Time: 1-1.5 hours
Entrance Fee: Free
Location: 20 Mohammed Bin Khalifa Street. Free parking is available across the street from the entrance.
Recommended Hotel in Al Ain: Aloft
History of Al Jahili Fort
The fort is an important symbol linking Al Ain, the ruling family of Abu Dhabi, and the country’s history and culture.
Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa ruled the Abu Dhabi emirate at the end of the 19th century and owned a farm in Al Ain. The royal family would escape the intense humidity of coastal Abu Dhabi in summer for the drier (but still damn hot) weather of Al Ain and the plentiful freshwater of the oasis.
Sheikh Zayed bin Khalifa ordered the construction of the Jahili Fort in 1891 as a stronghold to control the Bedouin tribes of the area, protect the palm farmers of the oasis, and serve as his summer residence. The fort was completed in 1889.
When the Sheikh died, his eldest son, Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed, took over but chose to remain in Al Ain permanently and not return to Abu Dhabi. Sometime over the next 30 years, the fort fell into disrepair until British forces integrated the fort into its regional headquarters.
The fort served as a military facility until 1970. Starting in 2007, the fort underwent significant renovations.
Today, the fort is one of the best tourist attractions in Al Ain and is used for exhibits and cultural activities.
Tips for Visiting Jahili Fort
The best time to visit Al Jahili Fort is either early morning or later in the day to avoid melting. We went around 4 p.m. (in December), and the softer light and long shadows added to the fort’s beauty. It is also beautifully lit up after dark.
A staff member welcomed us at the entrance and suggested we visit the fort counterclockwise. First, we would take a right towards the visitor’s centre, then the round tower, followed by the Old Fort/temporary exhibition area before ending at the Thesiger photography exhibition.
You can also scan a QR code at the entrance to download an audio guide to the complex to help you through your visit.
If you’re visiting only to see the fort, you could be done in 30 minutes. However, the interesting videos and displays will easily add another hour to your visit.
Free parking is available across the road from the main entrance.
The South Wing – Visitor’s Information Centre
Upon entering the West wing / Visitor’s centre, turn right until you get to the majlis (Arabic sitting room). Here a friendly staff member will offer you a cup of gahwa (Arabic coffee flavoured with cardamom) from a large dallah (coffee pot).
Gahwa is a symbol of Emirati generosity and hospitality. You can either enjoy your unique coffee in the sitting room or while watching the video about the fort in the area just around the corner.
The informative video shows the restoration process of the fort, which started in 2007. Architects explain their process and concepts, while other parts show how the restoration took place, such as making mud bricks with straw, cutting palm tree logs for the eaves, and plastering the walls using mud.
During the rehabilitation of the building, the team spared no detail to retain as much of the original structure while adding modern innovations to ensure a positive visitor experience. They aimed to reuse as much of the original building materials as possible but used only traditional methods when something had to be rebuilt entirely.
The restoration project of Al Jahili won the Terra Award in 2016 for its innovative and environmentally friendly technology uses while staying true to the original structure.
Of particular interest was how they added chilled water pipes just under the surface of the mud walls throughout the building. These pipes keep the inside of the building cool even when summer temperatures in Al Ain can reach 50 degrees Celcius.
After watching the video, continue exploring the west wing with exhibits of mud architecture from around the world, such as the Hakka tulou we had seen in China.
The Tower
Outside, just around the corner from the visitor’s centre, stands a cylindrical tower tapering to the top in four concentric tiers. A staircase spirals up, and visitors can climb up to the second tier for a good view of the fort and its courtyard.
You can also peek into Jahili Park adjacent to the fort and spot the Jahili mosque and pretty gardens.
Simply signposted as The Tower, this tower is often depicted on documents or logos. It’s considered a national treasure and symbol of the UAE.
The West Wing – The Old Fort
Cut across the courtyard to the Old Fort, standing in the corner of the complex.
The Old Fort houses contemporary art displays and installations on a rotating basis. During our visit, we enjoyed the thought-provoking installations by artist Shilpa Gupta.
Art aside, the Old Fort, with its tree in the courtyard and a watchtower on each corner, was just beautiful and quiet, and the play of light and shadows was art in itself.
The South Wing – Wilfred Thesiger Exhibition/Freedom of the Desert
The highlight of our visit to Fort Al Jahili was the phenomenal photographic display of the British adventurer and explorer Wilfred Thesiger.
You’ll find the entrance to the exhibition called The Freedom of the Desert right beside the fort’s main entrance. If you had visited the fort in an anticlockwise direction, this would be your last stop before leaving.
The Freedom of the Desert follows Thesiger’s travels across the Rub al-Khali (Empty Quarter) during the 1940s. Stunning black-and-white photos tell the story of his journey, and it’s incredible to see how much has changed since then.
In Al Ain, Thesiger found two bedouin boys (merely 16 years old at the time) to join him on his journey across the inhospitable Rub al-Khali – the largest sand desert on earth. Travelling only by camel, the two boys showed him the Bedouin way of life, and through hardship and companionship, Thesiger found the freedom of the desert he was looking for.
Watch the short but fascinating documentary before taking on the photography. The interviews with Thesiger and his Bedouin nomad guides, which were taken years later, were especially interesting. Thesiger and his companions remained friends, and he was given the name Mubarak Bin London.
Mubarak(Chosen by Allah) Bin (son of) London.
The photographs of the bedouins and desert are spectacular, and I was very disappointed that prints were not for sale in the visitor’s centre. I would have loved to get a print framed for our house.
Enjoy Fort Al Jahili. If you have any questions about visiting the fort or Al Ain, fire away and we’ll try our best to help ✌️