Gracie Lou Freebush* from New Jersey, friend and loyal follower, saw we recently went on a trip to Istanbul and reached out to us. She is also travelling to Turkey, and she hopes we can help her plan a 4 days in Istanbul itinerary.
She writes: Dear Museum of Wander (beaming face emoji – heart emoji). I’m going to Istanbul for 4 days. I want to see old and beautiful things and eat lots of food. I also want to go to that place I saw on Instagram with all the hot air balloons. Please help me plan the perfect 4 days itinerary for Istanbul.
We reply: Hi Gracie Lou, OMG!!! Good to hear from you. We love Istanbul, and we’re sure you will too. No probs, we’ll show you how to spend 4 days in Istanbul.
*Note: Gracy Lou Freebush is a fictional character
Istanbul is always a good idea. Bridging continents and cultures, Istanbul captivates hearts and minds like few other cities can dream of.
Here, where East and West kiss, centuries of history and culture collide with modern life. From soaring minarets to bustling bazaars, transcontinental ferry rides to hip neighbourhoods and decadent kahvalti, this ancient/modern city is a treasure trove waiting to be explored.
So, pack your curiosity and let’s show you how to spend 4 days in Istanbul.
Please note: This post may contain affiliate links. This means I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you).
Quick Guide to Istanbul
When did we go? We visited Istanbul on separate trips in July, August and April. April was the most enjoyable as it wasn’t too hot or crowded.
Where did we stay in Istanbul? Galata VAV Suites
How long to spend in Istanbul? At least 3 days (but that would be rushing). Four days in Istanbul allow you to get a good grasp of the city. You can spend weeks or even months in Istanbul and not get bored.
Getting from the airport: Book a private transfer from the airport straight to your accommodation, or take the official Havaistbus to the city and public transportation or taxi from there.
Getting around: Get the Istanbul Travel Card for use on all public transportation in Istanbul
Istanbul Tourist Pass: The Istanbul Tourist Pass allows skip-the-line entrance to Istanbul’s top attractions.
Turkey Sim Card: Sim Cards in Tukey for foreigners are ridiculously overpriced. Get an e-sim for Turkey instead and save a lot of money.
Where to Stay on this 4-Day Istanbul Itinerary
Where is the best place to stay in Istanbul for first (or second or third) time visitors?
We highly recommend Karaköy as your base for its fantastic location and access to public transportation. This fun and dynamic neighbourhood allows you to explore the city’s top attractions while feeling like a local for a few days.
During our previous trip to Istanbul, we stayed in Galata, just a stone’s throw away from the tower. While the proximity to Galata Tower was excellent, we quickly grew tired of the uphill walks to return home.
This time, we stayed at the remarkable VAV Galata Suites, at the meeting point of Galata, Karaköy, and Tophane neighbourhoods. Trust us when we say it’s the ideal location that offers the best of everything for our Istanbul itinerary.
You’ll find the Tophane tram stop (T1 line) and the Karaköy ferry port within a short walking distance, providing convenient transportation options.
Galata and Istiklal Avenue are at your doorstep, offering a vibrant atmosphere and endless entertainment options and restaurants. The historical sights of Sultanahmet are just a quick tram ride away.
VAV Galata Suites exceeded our expectations. Our apartment had a fully equipped kitchenette, a laundry machine, a comfortable double bed, and a cosy couch. It was the perfect home in Istanbul.
Is this 4 Days in Istanbul Itinerary for You?
Gracy Lou sends a WhatsApp. It reads: Yay [party emoji-happy emoji]. Thanks for helping out, but my friend says I should ask ChatGPT to make my 4 days in Istanbul itinerary. What do you think??? [confused emoji]
Well, let us enlighten you, Gracy Lou.
Our carefully crafted itinerary showcases the very best that Istanbul has to offer. Sure, you’ll get to visit all the famous sights that everyone wants to see, but we’ve also sprinkled in a few hidden gems that will make your trip extra special.
Unlike those AI-generated travel plans that have you racing from one place to another like a caffeinated squirrel, our itinerary is grounded in reality.
You will not see 209 places and a day trip to Cappadocia in four days – sorry. We want you to truly savour the beauty of Istanbul, not feel like you’re in a sprinting competition.
Also, please forget about a day trip to Capadoccia (the place with the balloons). It’s bonkers even to consider a day trip there.
This 4-day Istanbul itinerary was made by humans (us) for humans (you). So, no need to spend days on Tripadvisor searching for the best things to see and do in Istanbul because we have done that already. You can simply copy our itinerary and go and enjoy Istanbul.
We love food, and eating in Istanbul is one of the highlights when visiting Turkey. From killer kahvalti to kebabs and künefe, Istanbul is among the best foodie cities in the world. We’ll show you what and where to eat. You and your taste buds can thank us after your Istanbul trip.
So, if you’re craving an immersive experience encompassing Istanbul’s fascinating culture, history, and food scene, our Istanbul itinerary is tailor-made for you, Gracy Lou.
Sorry, but ChatGPT has never been (and will never go) to Istanbul. -but we have – THREE TIMES.
Here is a brief daily breakdown of our 4-day Istanbul itinerary.
Day 1: Coolstanbul: Explore the cool neighbourhoods of Tophane, Galata and Karakoy
Van Kahvalti Evi – Galata Tower – Kamondo Stairs – Banks Street – Super Mario – Galata Bridge – Karaköy – Yelkenci
Day 2: Oldstanbul: Sultanahmet – a day of discovering Istanbul’s most famous sights.
Yiğit Sofram Gözleme ve Kahvaltı – Topkapi Palace – Gülhane Park – Istanbul Archeology Museum – Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi – Blue Mosque – Little Hagia Sophia -Hagia Sophia
Day 3: Transtanbul: Beşiktaş, Ortaköy & Kadikoy: Breakfast in Europe followed by a transcontinental ferry ride for lunch in Asia and dinner back in Europe.
Breakfast Street – Yıldız Hamidiye Mosque – Ortaköy Pier – Kadiköy
Day 4: Byzanstanbul: Admire the stunning Byzantine mosaics in the Chora Church before diving into the bazaars.
Chora Church – Spice Bazaar – Arastra Bazaar – Istiklal Avenue
Day 1: Coolstanbul – Tophane, Galata & Karaköy
Our first day in Istanbul explores the hip and vibrant neighbourhoods of Tophane, Galata and Karaköy on the European side of the city. Here you’ll see the eclectic jumble that Istanbul is and also get to experience that Istanbulites are some of the hippest people in the world.
Breakfast at Van Kahvalti Evi
Start your 4 days in Istanbul itinerary with a bang at Van Kahvalti Evi (location). Situated just a 10-minute walk from our apartment, this place has the best breakfast in Istanbul – period!
Van Kahvalti Evi specializes in Kurdish-styled breakfasts from the city of Van in eastern Turkey. And man, are you in for something…
Order the breakfast set, which comes with an array of little plates filled with homemade jams, tahini, bal kaymak (a heavenly combination of clotted cream and honey), preserves, eggs, olives and an assortment of village cheeses. Fresh veggies, crunchy bread and a free flow of tea complete the scene.
A Van Kahvalti Evi breakfast is a feast and an Istanbul experience you should not miss.
Detour: Those who have read the novel Museum of Innocence by Orhan Pamuk will want to make a brief detour to the actual Museum of Innocence as described in the book. You’ll get free entry if you have your copy of the book.
The museum will be of no interest to those who haven’t read it.
If you love reading and visiting Istanbul any time soon, do yourself a favour and read it before you come. It is mind-bending – I promise.
See Istanbul from the Galata Tower
The anticipation builds as the elevator rides 63 metres to the top of the Galata Tower. Built in the 5th century during the Byzantine era, the Galata Tower has watched over the city for centuries and is still the best viewpoint in Istanbul today.
It’s the perfect vantage point to orientate yourself and grasp the city’s size. (Istanbul is Europe’s largest city, with over 15 million inhabitants). Over the next 4 days, you’ll recall sights you’ve seen from the top of Galata Tower.
Entrance tickets to the Galata Tower are on the pricey side, but we think it’s definitely a place you must visit in Istanbul.
The iconic Galata Tower is an experience that unveils Istanbul’s captivating beauty from a birds-eye perspective. As you step onto the observation deck, a panorama of the city’s skyline unfolds, with minarets piercing the sky, rooftops forming a patchwork of history, and the legendary Bosphorus and Golden Horn between them.
Tune in, and the breeze will whisper secrets of Constantinople while the modern bustle below will tell of modern Istanbul. Take a few laps around the view deck; you’ll see and feel something new each time.
After drinking in the views and taking too many skyline photos, take the spiralling stairs down to visit the displays of the Galata Tower museum on the lower levels.
Kamondo Stairs & Banks Street
From the Galata Tower, the narrow streets tumble down to the waters of the Golden Horn. A stroll down these streets shows how diverse this neighbourhood is, with Byzantine-era buildings rubbing shoulders with mosques, synagogues, corner shops and residential buildings.
The stunning Kamondo Stairs (location) between Kart Çınar Sokak and Bankalar Caddesi is a prominent Galata landmark and piece of Istanbul urban design.
The Kamondo Stairs (Kamondo Merdivenleri in Turkish) resemble something out of Gaudi’s imagination but were actually created by the influential Kamondo family, prominent bankers in the Ottoman Empire.
Constructed in the 1870s, these stairs blend Neo-Baroque and early Art Nouveau styles. Originally built as a shortcut for Mr Kamondo to reach Banks Street and for his children to access school, the graceful curves of the staircase were cleverly designed to prevent the children from tumbling down the stairs in case of a fall.
Once you descend the stairs, you’ll find yourself on Banks Street.
In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, Bankalar Caddesi (Banks Street) emerged as the financial centre of the Ottoman Empire, attracting numerous local and foreign banks to establish their headquarters there.
The street’s architecture is a grand fusion of Ottoman, Neoclassical, and Art Nouveau styles, with the buildings reflecting the grandeur and historical significance of its banking heritage.
To peek into Banks Street’s glory, a visit to SALT Galata is a must [location]. The former headquarters of the Ottoman Bank, dating from 1892, is now a cultural centre allowing the public free entry and free-reign to explore.
SALT Galata features several exhibition spaces, a library, public workspace, a bookshop, a cafe and a classy restaurant with free WI-Fi throughout.
Eat a Balik Ekmek at Supermario
Continue heading down to the Golden Horn, and quickly detour to the Arap Mosque.
The Arap Mosque was named after the Muslim refugees who settled here after fleeing the Spanish Inquisition. Originally a Roman Catholic church, it looks like the brick building teleported from Italy and landed here in Galata.
The Ottomans converted the church into a mosque in 1475. Today, this beautiful structure is the last remaining example of Gothic religious architecture in Istanbul.
Lunchtime or not, walk down the Karaköy Waterfront to reach Super Mario [location]. Hidden between warehouses dealing in metal rods, chains and fishing gear, you’ll find Super Mario Balık Ekmek, home to Istanbul’s famous fish sandwich.
Grab a seat, order one or two of Mario’s famous fish sandwiches with an Efes Lager and enjoy watching the boats go up and down the Golden Horn.
Walk Across the Galata Bridge
The Galata Bridge, spanning the Golden Horn and connecting Karaköy and Sultanahmet, holds a unique place in Istanbul’s landscape. Though not connecting Europe and Asia, crossing the bridge feels like stepping between two worlds.
On one side, the trendy and modern Karaköy beckons, while on the other, old Sultanahmet’s traditional charm, majestic domes and spires await.
With its double-deck design, the upper deck accommodates vehicles, a tram line, and pedestrians, while the lower level is exclusively for foot traffic.
The entire length of the lower level is lined with restaurants and cafes, offering a front-row seat to the Golden Horn, the passing ferries and people from every walk of life walking by.
The Galata Bridge is one of our favourite places in Istanbul to get caught up in the city’s energy. The upbeat fishermen, the swooping seagulls, the constant movement of humanity, watching ferries come and go, and the views of the city offer small but captivating vignettes of Istanbul.
Enjoy Karaköy Cafe Culture
Karaköy is not only known for its vibrant streets and quirky street art but also for its thriving cafe culture. This pulsing heartbeat of the neighbourhood, located behind the Karaköy ferry port, is a haven for those of us with a coffee shop fetish.
Karaköy has something for everyone, from hipster hangouts to quaint corner cafes and a few trendy pubs. Whether looking for Turkish coffee, Americano, çay or something with a kick, you’re sure to find it on either Ali Paşa Değirmeni Sokak or Mumhane Caddesi in Karaköy.
Our favourite spot for strong coffee, sweet pastries and even sweeter Karaköy vibes is the iconic Karabatak [location].
Dinner at Yelkenci
Yelkenci has two things going for it: great views of the Galata Bridge and the Golden Horn with Sultanahmet behind it and AMAZING food.
If you’re looking for a special dinner with a view and drool-worthy Turkish cuisine, Yelkenci is your place.
Call ahead to make a reservation and ask for a table by the window on the top floor. If the weather is nice, the windows slide wide open, almost becoming a terrace.
The menu offers extensive seafood choices and tempting mezze dishes. We ordered fried calamari, grilled mackerel and a mezze platter with a few glasses of raki – it was just fantastic. Definitely try the mezze platter when you come.
[location]
Day 2: Oldstanbul – Sultanahmet
If you have only one day in Istanbul, follow today’s itinerary. Today is all about the top Istanbul attractions, and we’ll explore them all.
After breakfast, take the T1 tram across the Galata Bridge to Sultanahmet to explore Istanbul’s incredible history and architecture.
We’ll show you a great little restaurant right in the heart of Sultanahmet for lunch, and we’ll have dinner in an old Byzantine church.
Breakfast at Yiğit Sofram Gözleme ve Kahvaltı
Just around the corner from Van Kahvalti Evi is another fantastic place for breakfast.
Yiğit Sofram Gözleme ve Kahvaltı [location] offers the same sublime breakfasts you can only find in Turkey, with a few surprising twists.
As expected, your table will be jammed with little plates of jams, preserves, tahini, molasses, five different kinds of cheese, olives, eggs, fresh veggies, and herbs.
Yiğit Sofram Gözleme ve Kahvaltı specializes in breakfast from Safranbolu, and they have some tasty twists on the traditional Turkish breakfast.
Alongside the regular bread, you’ll get fried bread with a delightful crunch. Another tasty addition is a plate of halloumi cheese fried in butter with succulent sucuk, a Turkish sausage reminiscent of pastrami.
When I saw the mulhama on the menu, I knew I had to order it.
Mulhama originates from the Black Sea region and is a hot dish made with several kinds of village cheese melted together with coarsely ground cornmeal. Needless to say, it was DAMN GOOD.
Enter the Once-Forbidden Harem at the Topkapi Palace
The Topkapi Palace is a magnificent complex that served as the residence of the Ottoman sultans for over four centuries. Visiting the Topkapi opens a window into the empire’s opulence and cultural significance.
The palace encompasses a vast area featuring several courtyards with pavilions, gardens, and room after lavish room exploding with colour and arabesque designs.
The highlight of a visit to the Topkapi Palace is its renowned Harem, where the sultan’s family resided.
Once off-limits (harem means forbidden) to everyone except the sultan, it served as the living quarters for the sultan, his family, and his concubines. The exquisitely decorated Harem, adorned with elaborate tilework, is perhaps Istanbul at its most exotic.
In 2024, entrance fees to the Topkapi Palace skyrocketed to TRY 1 500 (that’s over 40 euros and over USD45). While the Topkapi is spectacular, I’m not sure if it’s worth paying that much…
See the Tulips in Gülhane Park
Gülhane Park, once part of the outer gardens of the Topkapi Palace, is a nice break from all the culture and architecture. So, take a breather and stroll through this beautiful park before getting back on track with Sultanahmet’s cultural and historical sights.
Ambling along the winding pathways, you’ll discover pretty flower beds, towering trees, manicured lawns and benches to rest your legs.
If you’re here in Spring, Gülhane Park will reward you with an explosion of colour, as the city’s famous tulips will be in bloom. When we visited in the first week of April, the tulips still had a few weeks to go to their peak, but it was impressive nonetheless.
Tulip Trivia: May associate tulips with the Netherlands, but they actually originate from central Asia, and the Turks cultivated them as early as 1000 AD. The Ottomans went doolally for tulips, which quickly became a status symbol.
Tulips were, and still are, a popular motive in Turkish art and culture. It is often depicted on ceramics, textiles, and perhaps the most common – the ince belli (tulip-shaped tea glass).
The Dutch imported tulips from the Ottoman Empire in the 16 century.
Overdose on Ancient Art at the Istanbul Archaeological Museums
The Istanbul Archaeological Museums comprise three distinct institutions: The Archaeology Museum, The Museum of the Ancient Orient, and The Tiled Kiosk Museum. [location]
The museum claims to have about a million artefacts, and while we didn’t count, it’s quite believable, judging by the sculptures and columns scattered around the garden. We guess they simply don’t have enough space to keep all of this history.
The Tiled Kiosk, dating back to 1472, boasts vibrant glazed tiles on its facade, reminiscent of central Asian architecture.
Inside, you can marvel at a stunning assortment of ceramics and tiles from the Selcuk and Ottoman periods.
The smaller Museum of the Ancient Orient holds one of the world’s most significant historical treasures.
The Ishtar Gate, which once stood at the entrance to ancient Babylon, is one of the most incredible symbols from Mesopotamia. The glazed indigo bricks adorned with golden bulls, lions and mythical beasts are still vibrant, even after thousands of years.
While most of the Ishtar Gate has been carried off to the Pergamon Museum in Berlin, a small section of the gate is on display inside the Museum of Ancient Orient.
Another highlight of this museum is the cuneiform clay tablets. Although not as extensive as the collection of tablets we saw in the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations in Ankara, code crackers, linguists, and culture vultures can see a few cuneiform tablets – the world’s first writing system – in Istanbul.
The most famous tablet in Istanbul, the Treaty of Kadesh, is a peace agreement between the Egyptian pharaoh Ramses II and the Hittite king Hattusilis III dating back to 1258 BC.
The Archaeology Museum displays a handsome collection of classical art, including marble sculptures and sarcophagi. The most famous piece to look out for is the Alexander Sarcophagus, a grand marble sarcophagus adorned with intricate reliefs depicting scenes from the life of Alexander the Great.
Lunch at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi
I’m forever sceptical about restaurants in the most touristy part of any city, but Jin convinced me on our first Istanbul trip that this place was different—and she was absolutely right.
We’ve had lunch at Tarihi Sultanahmet Köftecisi on every one of our Istanbul trips, and it never disappoints.
The vintage photographs and memorabilia on the walls tell a story of the restaurant’s history and connection to the local community. It has been here since 1920, so they must be doing something right.
This iconic Sultanahmet eatery is always buzzing – it must be the combination of being in a prime location, fantastic food and affordable prices. [address]
The small menu only has köfte, kuzu şiş, rice, lentil soup, bean salad, pickled chillies, and rice pudding. That’s all.
We always order one portion of köfte (grilled meatballs) and a portion of kuzu şiş (tender chunks of grilled lamb), and some lentil soup. The meat comes with a few pickles, so don’t order them unless you have a pickle fetish. Don’t forget to ask the waiter for some hot sauce to add a kick to your meal.
The velvety rice pudding ends your meal on a high note.
Visit the Blue Mosque
Officially known as the Sultan Ahmed Mosque, most of us will know it by its common name, the Blue Mosque.
It is one of Istanbul’s most famous landmarks and one of the city’s most visited spots. The architecture is truly mindblowing. Before seeing the interior, take a moment to admire and decode the building’s architecture.
Featuring five main domes supported by eight secondary domes and six minarets, the Blue Mosque is an Ottoman wedding cake on a grand scale.
Inside, the Blue Mosque continues to wow. Over twenty thousand hand-painted Iznik tiles with over fifty distinct tulip designs adorn the mosque’s interior.
The Iznik tiles on the upper levels and dome of the mosque are predominantly blue, giving the Blue Mosque its name.
You’ll find a colossal marble column supporting the central dome in the mosque’s centre. Take a moment to comprehend its size, and remember this column when you visit the Hagia Sophia later.
One aspect that makes the Hagia Sophia such an architectural marvel is that it features an unsupported dome.
Detour to the Little Hagia Sophia
Before visiting Istanbul’s most famous attraction, the Hagia Sophia, take a brief detour to the Küçük Ayasofya Camii, or the Little Hagia Sophia.
Dedicated to the saints Sergius and Bacchus of Constantinople, this former Greek Orthodox church was built in 536 by Justinian I, the Eastern Roman emperor who also built the Hagia Sophia. Like most other Byzantine churches in Istanbul, the Little Hagia Sophia has been converted into a mosque.
While there is debate about whether the Küçük Ayasofya served as the blueprint for its more famous big sister, there are striking similarities, especially the freestanding dome.
The Little Hagia Sophia (location) sits in the Kumkapi neighbourhood with the Marmara Sea as a backdrop, a short walk from the Blue Mosque and Hagia Sophia.
Hagia Sophia: Istanbul’s Most Famous Sight
A mammoth, both in age and size, the Hagia Sophia is the one single sight you MUST SEE in Istanbul. We intentionally saved it for the final stop on today’s itinerary, as the late afternoon sunlight that streams through the windows is – literally and figuratively – golden.
As the epitome of Byzantine architecture, the 1500-year-old Hagia Sophia (meaning Holy Wisdom) is an unparalleled marvel. Words cannot capture the grandeur of this 1500-year-old building adequately; it must be witnessed firsthand.
Within its walls, Istanbul’s entire history is encapsulated. Initially constructed as the world’s largest cathedral in the 6th century, it later transformed into a mosque during the Ottoman era. In 1935, it was converted into a museum before returning to its function as a mosque in 2020.
Shapeshifter much?
The Hagia Sophia is now officially named the Ayasofya Grand Mosque.
Previously, the Ayasofya would close five times a day for prayer, but that has changed. Since 2023, visitors can explore the mosque during prayer times, with designated areas blocked off for visitors to ensure a respectful coexistence.
During our visit in Ramazan, we experienced a profoundly moving moment as the imam’s prayer reverberated throughout the mosque, accompanied by the ethereal illumination of the afternoon light. It remains etched in my memory as one of the most powerful experiences I have ever encountered.
Go up to the second floor for an up-close view of the stunning mosaics and a view of the Blue Mosque.
In 2024, Turkey introduced an entrance fee for tourists visiting the Hagia Sophia, set at a whopping 25 Euro per person. Yes, it’s steep! But if there is one place you MUST see in Istanbul, it’s this place.
Dinner Inside the Aya Nikola Church
Ride the tram across the Galata Bridge back to Karaköy and get off at the Tophane stop. Go home to rest a bit and freshen up before heading out to dinner in Karakoy.
We found Çorba Evi (House of Soups), a cheap and no-frills place serving nothing but soup. Besides the usual things, they have exciting soups like Mother & Daughter, thimble, meaty wedding and black cabbage soups. They have many vegetarian and non-veg soups on offer.
Çorba Evi (location) occupies a section of the former Aya Nikola church, with inside and outside seating. You’ll find the House of Soups on Mumhane Caddesi.
Gracie Lou Freebush asks: So you went to Istanbul on three separate occasions and haven’t been to the Basilica Cistern. I thought it was one of the must-sees in Istanbul. Why does this Istanbul itinerary not have it?
We answer: Yes, Gracie Lou, well spotted. We’ve also heard it’s one of the must-sees in Sultanahmet. However, the line to get in is redonkeylous!
If you must see the cistern, we suggest buying skip-the-line tickets in advance. Unless spending an hour or two in line is your thing…
We’ll plan better and see it next time we are in town.
Day 3: Transtanbul-Europe to Asia & Back in a Day
On the Istanbul itinerary today, we have the neighbourhoods of Beşiktaş, Ortaköy and Kadiköy on the agenda.
We have breakfast in Europe before a transcontinental ferry ride to Kadiköy on the Asian side of the city.
Kadiköy is a colourful neighbourhood with tons of restaurants and cafes – it’s one of our favourite spots in Istanbul.
After exploring the colourful vibes and a late lunch in Asia, we return to Karaköy in Europe for a light street food dinner and decadent dessert.
Breakfast Street
If you need more than just a breakfast restaurant, how about an entire street dedicated to the morning meal? That’s precisely what you’ll find on Kahvaltıcılar Sokağı, or Breakfast Street.
Located in the Beşiktaş neighbourhood, this delicious street has become a favourite among locals and tourists looking for traditional Turkish breakfast in Istanbul.
We had our eyes set on the highly recommended Cakmak Kahvaltı Salonu. We came early and found a table right away. Jolly good. We ordered away and stuffed ourselves with bread, sucuk, menemen, bal kaymak, cherry jam – the works!
Happy days!
We then paid the bill, tipped our waiter and rolled out…only to pass the real Cakmak Kahvalti Salonu down the street! [Insert cricket sounds here]
It turns out that there are multiple breakfast cafes on the street bearing the name Cakmak. In our breakfast frenzy, we must have become a tad overzealous and failed to read the full name thoroughly.
Although our breakfast experience was great, a hint of disappointment lingered, knowing we had missed our intended destination.
So Gracie Lou, don’t be like us. Walk up and down breakfast street first and consider all your options before ordering.
Admire Istanbul’s Last Imperial Mosque – Yıldız Hamidiye Mosque
After breakfast, follow the map on your phone and walk to the beautiful Yıldız Hamidiye Mosque (location).
Along the way, you’ll have the chance to explore lesser-known areas of Istanbul that many tourists miss. Keep an eye out for quirky street art and graffiti, enjoy the urban green spaces, and in 20 minutes or so, you’ll reach the mosque.
The Yıldız Hamidiye Mosque holds historical significance as the final imperial mosque constructed during the Ottoman Empire. Its architectural style combines Neo-Gothic and Ottoman design elements, while the interior showcases exquisite Moorish influences.
One unique aspect of the Yıldız Mosque is that it features only one minaret and lacks a traditional courtyard, setting it apart from other imperial mosques.
Stepping inside, a visual extravaganza awaits. The interplay of deep reds, blues, greens, yellows and golds epitomizes the pinnacle of European Orientalism.
Take note of the golden stars scattered across the deep blue ceiling and dome—a symbolic reference to the sultan’s palace, known as the Yıldız, meaning star in Turkish.
Hang Out at Ortaköy Square
Its lovely waterfront setting makes it easy to see why Ortaköy Square is popular with locals, especially the younger crowd. They come to this pretty corner of Istanbul to hang out in the fancy waterfront cafes and bars, to smoke nargile at a hookah bar, or just to see and be seen.
We tourists come to the small square on the Bosphorus to admire the baroque Ortaköy Buyuk Mecidiye Mosque, see the Bosphorus Bridge between Europe and Asia, or board a ferry.
It’s not a bad place to wait for public transportation, so enjoy your time here while waiting for your ferry to arrive.
Ride a Bosphorus Ferry from Europe to Asia
Ditch the overpriced tourist cruises and hop on the Bosphorus Lines ferry for a crossing from Europe to Asia. Not only is it ridiculously cheap, but it also delivers a genuine Istanbul experience—far better than those cheesy tours with commentary in 37 languages and lacklustre belly dancing.
If the weather permits, ride the public ferry like a boss and head straight up to claim your spot on the open deck. Feel the wind in your hair as you float away on the Bosphorus Strait, catching a last view of the charming Ortaköy mosque and Bosphorus Bridge.
This ferry ride treats you to a panorama of Istanbul’s iconic landmarks. Along the way, you can marvel at the Dolmabahce Palace, Ciragan Palace and waterfront mansions known as yalis, dotting the waterfront, among others.
Stopping in Uskadar along the way and passing Sultanhamnet, you’ll arrive at Kodikoy on the Asian side in 30 minutes or so.
But this ferry ride isn’t just about scenic views. It’s a front-row seat to Istanbul’s lively tapestry of everyday life. Watch as locals and visitors from all walks of life mingle onboard.
Seagulls dive-bombing for snacks provide an entertaining sideshow while you soak up the animated conversations and ponder the mysterious stories behind your anonymous fellow passengers.
Bask in Kadiköy’s Colourful Vibes
When arriving in the Anatolian side of Istanbul, don’t expect rice paddies and people wearing conical straw hats and silk 🤣 . Kadiköy might geographically be in Asia, but it’s still Istanbul.
We just loved this bohemian neighbourhood and spent a few good hours here simply walking around between quirky cafes and bars, street art and colourful houses.
It was a sunny spring Saturday, and the place was rammed. The lively atmosphere of Istanbulites enjoying the neighbourhood was contagious, and we had a great time ourselves.
Kadiköy is best explored on foot and without a plan. While this neighbourhood might be sparse in terms of traditional sightseeing, it compensates in colour and unique ambience. You’ll likely spot your fair share of street art, the Moda tram and quirkiness galore.
Colourful streets and funky vibes aside, Kadiköy is a place for eating. You’ll find thousands of cafes, restaurants and bars to choose from. A stroll down Dumlupinhar or Güneşli Bahçe Streets will leave you with an overwhelming choice of places to eat.
We had an excellent late lunch of beyran corbaci and Adana kebab at Ayik (location), a place popular among locals for its hearty soups and smokey meat.
When you’re Kadiköyed out, take the ferry back to Karaköy in Europe.
Dinner & Dessert in Karaköy
Arriving back in Europe, we came across a long line of hopeful customers lining up for balik ekmek at Sokak Lezzeti (location). And you know what they say, a long line is always a delicious sign, so we happily joined in.
Sokak Lezzeti makes an excellent fish sandwich and is worth lining up for. We stood in line for about 30 minutes.
The balik ekmek at Sokak Lezzeti looks the same as the ones we had at Super Mario (flatbread, onions, herbs, spices and secret sauce), but we think Sokak Lezzeti has the slight edge when it comes to taste, while Mario has that great waterfront setting.
It’s amazing how a little street food joint can turn into a culinary gem. So, if you find yourself in line at Sokak Lezzeti, trust me, it’s worth the wait.
After chilling at our apartment, we craved a late-night sweet. And when it comes to sweet treats in Karaköy, there’s no better spot than the renowned Güllüoğlu Baklava.
Güllüoğlu Baklava, open until 1 AM daily, feels like an upscale cafeteria where you can create your dessert adventure. Grab a tray, saunter along the counter, and select what you fancy. Once you’ve filled your tray with goodness, head to the cashier for the grand total before finding a table.
Make sure to try their Soğuk Baklava. This twist on the traditional baklava features a pastry filled with pistachios, sprinkled with chocolate, and soaked in cold milk.
The result?
A slightly soggy baklava that’s less sweet than its classic counterpart, with a unique texture and taste.
If you somehow find yourself not craving something sweet (seriously, what’s wrong with you?), fret not! Güllüoğlu also offers savoury borek pastries with cheese, spinach, or meat options.
Day 4: Byzanstanbul – Edirnekapı, Eminönü & Beyoglu
On our last day in Istanbul, we see more of her incredible culture, history and food.
Take a bus or tram to the Edirnekapı district, passing the Walls of Constantinople, before reaching the non-descript Chora Church.
Inside, the Chora Church is covered with the best mosaics from the Byzantine era – it’s a visual and (for some) spiritual treat.
Dive into the Spice and Arastra Bazaars in the afternoon for souvenir shopping.
For our last night in Istanbul, we’ll have dinner under the Galata Tower and stroll along Istiklal Street – the city’s busiest.
DIY Breakfast at Home
The best thing about having your own apartment with a kitchen is that you can make your own breakfast. That’s exactly what we did, so today you can stay in your pjs longer and really feel like a local in Istanbul.
We got some fruit, yoghurt and cereal from the corner shop and enjoyed a lazy brekkie at home.
If you’re not up for self-catering and don’t feel like a full Turkish breakfast again, Starbucks is always a good idea.
Starbucks!!!??? What’s wrong with us???
According to the Starbucks Index, Turkey has the cheapest Starbucks in the world, giving you a good excuse to come here for coffee and breakfast.
Be Wowed by the Chora Church Mosaics
The Kariye Mosque, formerly known as the Chora Church, is a magnificent Byzantine structure in the Edirnekapı neighbourhood of Istanbul. The name originates from the Greek word Khora, meaning countryside, as it once stood beyond the walls of Constantinople.
With a history tracing back to the 4th century, this architectural gem has undergone various transformations over time. Initially constructed as a church, it was later converted into a mosque during the Ottoman era and later designated as a museum. In 2020, it was reverted back to a mosque.
Inside the Kariye Mosque, you’ll find a mesmerizing display of mosaics and frescoes that depict biblical scenes. These remarkable mosaics, crafted during the 14th century, are regarded as some of the most exceptional examples of Byzantine art in the world.
The mosaics within the Kariye Mosque beautifully blend storytelling with artistic mastery. They bring to life various moments from the life of Christ, the Virgin Mary, and numerous saints, showcasing incredible precision and aesthetic beauty.
These mosaics convey profound symbolism and a deep sense of spirituality that captivates visitors of all faiths.
To visit the Chora Church, board the T1 tram heading towards Topkapi station. Upon arrival, transfer to the T4 line and alight at Edirnekapi. From there, a pleasant 10-minute walk will lead you to the Chora Church.[location]
Update: Good news just in from Istanbul! The Kariye Mosque has just opened its doors again to visitors (May 2024). The church/mosque was closed for a few years for “renovations” and many were worried that it wouldn’t open for tourists again.
The Kariye Mosque is open daily (except Wednesdays) from 9 am to 7 pm. And best – FREE ENTRANCE.
If you’re not into Byzantine wonders (what’s wrong with you???), we suggest you visit the Dolmabahce Palace instead.
Shop in the Spice & Arasta Bazaars
We don’t quite understand the hype around Istanbul’s Grand Bazaar. Many travel itineraries insist it’s a must-see, but we found it rather meh.
Instead, we recommend checking out the Spice Bazaar and Arasta Bazaar for fantastic souvenir shopping.
If you’re in the market for a carpet, make sure to visit Persona, conveniently located near our apartment in Karakoy. The owner is laid back, and we found a unique Senneh rug from Iran to add to our growing collection at home.
The Spice Bazaar, also known as the Egyptian Bazaar, is the best place for food gifts from Istanbul. It’s a sensory adventure of vibrant colours, exotic aromas, and lively market activity.
The merchants are eager to offer you samples, inviting you to taste the flavours of Istanbul: Turkish delights, nuts, honeycomb, caviar, dried fruits, and an assortment of teas and spices.
The vendors’ friendly banter and lively interactions create an energetic and convivial atmosphere – just like a good ol’ market should be.
The Arasta Bazaar, behind the Blue Mosque in Sultanahmet, is another excellent spot for souvenir shopping in Istanbul. This row of shops is housed in former Ottoman-era stables from the 17th century. Unlike the Grand Bazaar, the Arasta Bazaar offers a more intimate and relaxed shopping experience.
Come to Arasta Bazaar for authentic Turkish handicrafts, textiles, carpets, ceramics, jewellery, and souvenirs. Here, you’ll find a curated selection of high-quality items, making it a perfect place to find unique souvenirs and gifts to take home.
Check out Jennifer’s Hamam for its selection of Turkish towels in various kinds of fabric and designs, and soaps.
Galerie Metin has a few unique pieces of repurposed Anatolian saddle bags in the form of cushions and carpets.
You might want to pop in at the Great Palace Mosaics Museum, located inside the bazaar. Here you can admire more Byzantine mosaics from the Great Palace of Constantinople they uncovered under the Arasta Bazaar.
Dinner Under the Galata Tower & Stroll Along Istiklal Caddesi
Our last dinner in Istanbul calls for something special. For this reason, we’re dining at Güney [location], right under the Galata Tower.
Güney, with its inside and outside seating, is always roaring with people coming to enjoy its great food and atmosphere. This restaurant has been here since 1964, so they’re obviously doing something right.
Jin had the Ali Nazik, a dish I discovered on my foodie trip to Gaziantep and recommended she try. I had the manti, a ravioli-like dish with butter and sumac, and both dishes were outstanding.
After dinner, stroll around and enjoy Galata lit up at night before heading up to Istiklal Caddesi (Independence Avenue).
London has Oxford Street, Shanghai has Nanjing Lu, and New York has Fifth Avenue. Istanbul’s answer to them is Istiklal Caddesi. This street is busy all day, every day, but most magical after dark.
Walk with the crowds, or jump on the historic red Tunel-Taksim tram and get swept away with the energy of Istiklal Street.
If you haven’t had the chance yet, now is the perfect time to discover the captivating world of Hafiz Mustafa. This renowned Turkish dessert shop is an institution in Istanbul and an absolute must-visit. We’ve likely saved the best for last.
My latest weakness at Hafiz Mustafa is their trilece, a sponge cake soaked in three different kinds of milk. Believe me – it’s orgasmic.
Other solid options are the dondurma (Turkish ice cream), künefe, or baklava. They even offer treats beautifully packaged in tins and boxes, making them perfect gifts.
And here, as you stuff yourself with sticky, sweet treats, is the end of our 4-day Istanbul itinerary. It was great showing you around.
If you want more Turkey magic, join us on our Black Sea road trip from Istanbul to Ankara.
If you think it took long to read this 4 days itinerary for Istanbul, it took about 1000x longer to write FML. But there you have it – the best ways to spend 4 days in Istanbul
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Thank you so much for taking time to share all this. Will put to use this week!
Paula, hope you’re going to have a great trip! Istanbul is an amazing place. Enjoy
Dear Jin and De Wet,
Awesome is not the word…
Your itinerary was truly what I was looking for..
We, my friends (10 of us) average age 60 but we feel and act 40..)) will be doing Turkey… Istanbul & Izmir.. for 9 days in total from the 9th. to the 19th. of July 2024.
We know it’s the peak of summer and is going to be HOT…
Do you feel that the 4 days you’ve suggested is enough, or should we add one more day to make it easier on our feet and feel less rushed…
Also could you please suggest some nightspots in Istanbul…
Have you done Izmir ?
I didn’t see a blog Izmir.
How long were your days in the 4 day experience… what time did you start your day and what time did you end..
Looking forward to hear from you… cheers !!
Hi Sivappa,
Ten friends in Istanbul – that’s going to be party!!
I think our itinerary is very realistic for four days. Yes, it’s going to be hot, and yes it’s going to be busy. I suggest you prebook entrance tickets or guided tours if you can to save you a lot of time standing in line.
Jin did our exact itinerary with her parents, who are in their 70s, in September last year and they all had a great time.
The first two days of our itinerary are quite busy (but realistic), while the last two days are very relaxed. We started our days with lazy breakfasts and were on the streets exploring by around 10 am and we were back at home after sunset. It is a good balance between sightseeing and just hanging out in cafes or shopping. We also had time to go back to our apartment for a little siesta on the Karakoy day. I don’t think you need to add an extra day, so stick with your original plan.
As for nightlife, we loved Umbrella Street in Karakoy – lots of cafes, restaurants and pubs. Another laid back but cool area at night is Cihangir, not far from Karakoy with a few nice restaurants and bars. Istiklal Street is also a must at night. The area around the Galata Tower is always nice, and the Fish Market on Istiklal ( lots of seafood restaurants) is a nice spot for dinner and drinks in Beyoglu. The night scene gets rowdy closer to Taksim Square, which we didn’t like that much.
We have not been to Izmir, so can’t comment on that.
Enjoy your party, I mean trip 😜