Not long after leaving Prague on our December road trip through the Czech Republic, we realised we had a thing or two in common with Freddy Mercury.
Our Bohemian road trip is a lot like Queen’s most iconic song, Bohemian Rhapsody. Like Freddy’s dynamic vocals skipping from rock to opera and ballads, our Czech road trip goes from forests to the classic spa towns of West Bohemia, highways and back roads followed by rolling hills and rural hamlets of South Bohemia. There are castles, a hilltop monastery, a UNESCO village, Christmas markets, and perhaps the most beautiful town in Europe.
Bohemian Rhapsody is not your typical song, and that’s what makes it brilliant. Similarly, our Czech road trip is not the traditional self-drive trip. While most people would say summer is the best time for this kind of adventure, we found that they’re wrong. A winter trip to Bohemia is truly magical and a real rhapsody.
Putting aside our rhapsody ramblings, our self-drive holiday was tops. It’s amazing how much we saw in under a week. Our road trip rides a fine balance between seeing some of Czechia’s famous sights, exploring a few hidden gems and with enough time to relax in a spa in between.
Thank you to VisitCzechia and Karlovy Vary Region for hosting us on our road trip. As always, the love for obscure back roads, excellent driving skills, and opinions are our own.
Please note: This post may contain affiliate links. This means I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you).
Quick Guide to Our Czech Road Trip
When did we go? We left Prague on 26th December and returned on the 31st.
Recommended car rental? We always use Discover Cars, an aggregator of car rental companies. By comparing local and international companies, Discover Cars offers you the greatest choice and best rates.
We picked up and returned the car at Prague Airport.
Insurance: We paid extra for all-inclusive car insurance for peace of mind. This meant that everything was covered, and there would be no excess payment if anything happened.
Distance: 692 km
Toll fees: Your rental car should include a vignette for traveling on the expressways. If you’re driving your own car, you’ll need an e-vignette.
Where to stay in Prague before your road trip: Residence 44
What is Driving in Czechia Like?
I was a little worried about driving in the Czech Republic when we decided on a road trip in December. We imagined lots of snow and slippery roads. I come from Africa and visited Czechia while we lived in the UAE. I don’t do snow…
Thankfully, we had no snow on our trip, and rental cars should come standard with snow tyres in winter anyway. It’s the EU. Roads are as you’d expect of European countries. Driving in the Czech Republic was a breeze and very enjoyable.
Since we would be flying home right after our road trip, it made sense to rent at the airport. Renting in the city and returning to the airport would be classified as a one-way rental and incur extra costs. I also didn’t want to deal with Prague traffic with trams on the road—I’m from Africa—what is a tram, and why is it on the road!?
I don’t recommend renting a car for your time in Prague. The city has excellent public transport, and you don’t need to pay for parking.
We used Google Maps for navigation, which worked just fine. Add at least an hour to the Google Maps suggested driving time to allow for photo or snack stops along the way. This road trip includes a mix of highways, regional roads, and rural back roads.
Please familiarise yourself with the driving rules of the Czech Republic before your trip. Here are some things to remember:
- The legal driving age is 18. You must be at least 21 to hire a car.
- Czech Republic drives on the right-hand side of the road.
- Speed limits in the Czech Republic are indicated in kilometres per hour.
- Handy digital screens will show your current speed as you approach settlements.
- The maximum speed limits are:
- Urban areas: 50 km/h (31 mph)
- Rural areas: 90 km/h (55 mph)
- Highways: 130 km/h (80 mph)
- There is a zero-tolerance policy on alcohol consumption for drivers.
- Dipped beam headlights must be used at all times, day or night.
- Right turn on red light not allowed.
- In the event of an accident, do not leave the scene; report the incident by calling 112 (emergency services) or 155 (ambulance).
Our Czech Republic Road Trip Itinerary
Just shy of 700 km, our self-drive trip through Czechia shows you some of the most beautiful places in the country. We stayed for one night in Mariánské Lázně, two nights in Karlovy Vary, and two nights in Český Krumlov.
If you add our recommended four days in Prague and one more night somewhere else, you’ll have a fantastic 10-day itinerary for the Czech Republic.
In this post, I’ll outline the day’s drive and the places we visited, keeping it concise. You can find links to our detailed posts on each destination in the sections below.
Day 1: Prague Airport to Mariánské Lázně
Distance: 198 km
Stop at Křivoklát Castle
Stay at Ensana Svoboda in Mariánské Lázně
Day 2: Mariánské Lázně to Karlovy Vary
Distance: 49 km
Stop at Loket Castle
Stay at Art Deco WOLKER in Karlovy Vary
Day 3: Karlovy Vary
Day 4: Karlovy Vary to Český Krumlov
Distance: 249 km
Stop at Klášter, Blatná Castle, Holašovice
Stay at Boutique Hotel Romantick in Český Krumlov
Day 5: In Český Krumlov
Day 6: Český Krumlov to Prague Airport
Distance: 196 km
See Prague Before / After Your Road Trip
Our itinerary does not include Prague, but that does not mean you should skip it. We spent four days in Prague, including Christmas, in Prague, before going on our road trip. I think four days is perfect to see the city.
For most people visiting the country, Prague is the Czech Republic, and they are happy with a city break. Don’t be like most other people. Be like us and go on a road trip to see the incredible country beyond the Charles Bridge.
So, when you’re ready, go get your rental, crank your favourite playlist, step on the gas, and get this Bohemia trip on the road!
Day 1: Prague to Mariánské Lázně
We decided to get an Uber to the airport on the morning of 26 December to collect our car. Uber is cheap in Prague, and we were excited to get going, so we didn’t want to waste time with the bus.
The formalities were fast and friendly. I submitted my UAE driver’s license, thinking that would be fine, but I was asked to show my IDP (International Driver’s Permit). Luckily, I got one in Abu Dhabi before our trip to be on the safe side. A UAE driving license is not recognised in the Czech Republic, so if you’re coming from the Sand Pit, get your IDP.
After signing the forms and inspecting the car, we connected the Bluetooth for Spotify and navigation, typed Křivoklát Castle into Google Maps, and went off.
Vroom vroom!
The D6 motorway took us west, and within a few kilometres, we could feel that we were leaving Prague behind as the landscape changed to farmland and forest. The D6 is a lovely double-lane highway, and traffic was light. What a great start to our Czech road trip.
After about 30 km, we left the highway and turned south onto the 236, a much narrower road with a speed limit of 90 km/h. After passing the town of Lány, the 236 enters the Křivoklátsko Protected Landscape Area, a UNESCO biosphere reserve.
Here on the 236, we felt we were well on our way to Bohemia. This stretch of road leading to Křivoklát Castle was straight from a central European fairy tale with deciduous woods of oak, beech, silver birch and linden forests hugging the road winding through it. We wish we could make more stops here, but we had a spa appointment in Mariánské Lázně at 1 pm.
Křivoklát Castle
Arriving at Křivoklát Castle quickly presented a problem: parking at the castle gave us no view, and we basically looked up with our necks turned 90 degrees, seeing only a wall and sky. After scouring Google Maps, we found a lookout point (location) from where we had a gorgeous view of Křivoklát Castle.
Built in the 12th century, the castle is one of the oldest Czech royal seats and was one of the royals’ most beloved hunting castles.
After snapping a few photos and stretching our legs, we wanted to get back on a highway as soon as possible. The 236 continued south through the enchanting forests until it joined the E50 highway. The E50 is roughly 6000 km long and runs the length of Europe, from Brest in France to the Caspian Sea in Russia.
Křivoklát Castle to Mariánské Lázně
Driving west on the E50 was a delight, with a speed limit of 130 km/h. We stopped for a coffee at a gas station just after passing Plzeň. We stayed on the E50 a little longer before taking road 21 north to Mariánské Lázně.
We arrived in beautiful Mariánské Lázně at 1:15 p.m., checked in at the Ensana Svoboda, and headed straight to our scheduled spa session.
Parking: The Ensana Svoboda offers a few free off-street parking spots. Message them at the time of booking. Otherwise, paid parking is available right in front of the hotel.
See & Do in Mariánské Lázně:
- Relax and experience wellness in the spa.
- Visit the Cross Spring and try a sip from all the fountains.
- Eat a spa wafer.
- Stroll through the beautiful parks and admire the architecture.
- Go for a short hike through the forest.
Sleep: We stayed at the Ensana Svoboda and loved it. It has a wonderful spa, fantastic buffet meals, and a top-notch location.
➜ Read our guide to Marianske Lazne
Day 2: Mariánské Lázně to Karlovy Vary
I started my morning with a beautiful pre-breakfast hike in the woods behind our hotel. There were mossy trees and scenic views over the Valley of the Springs.
After a buffet breakfast fit for royalty, we took one last stroll through the colonnade to sip some of Marianske Lazne’s mineral waters, oohed and aahed over the architecture, and then hit the road north to Karlovy Vary.
It’s only 50 km to Karlovy Vary, but the drive is spectacular. So there is no need to rush; take your time and enjoy the scenery.
Route 210 takes you through the beautiful Slavkov Forest, known for its mineral springs and stunning natural landscapes, including conifer forests, heaths, bogs, and meadows, intersected by the Teplá and Ohře Rivers.
Unlike the deciduous woods we drove through yesterday, today’s drive was one in 50 shades of green, with water almost everywhere. This forest felt truly alive and mysterious.
The traffic was almost nonexistent, so we took our time to appreciate the beauty of nature, making a few stops to walk around and breathe in the fresh air.
Loket
Loket, with its stunning castle sitting in a bend of the Ohře River, is as beautiful as Central Europe gets.
After exploring the castle’s torture chambers and climbing up the tower for a great view of the colourful town below, we took a stroll to the town square. If you’re hungry, there are a few restaurants in town (and a brewery for the passengers).
Free parking is available here, or there is paid parking in the town centre. We spent about 2 hours in Loket before the road called us again.
➜ Read our guide to Loket
Loket to Karlovy Vary
It’s just 10 km to Karlovy from Loket.
Arriving in Czehia’s most famous spa town, we had a hard time finding parking, as our hotel was in the central spa zone, a pedestrian-only zone. Eventually, I double parked at the first quiet spot I could find and waited there while Jin went to our hotel to ask for help, who directed her to the parking arcade.
After parking and checking in, it was almost dark, so we took a stroll and then went to the sauna and pool in the spa.
Parking: The best place to park in Karlovy Vary is at the covered parking garage at Hotel Thermal (location). There are also charging stations for electric cars. Rates are 50 CZK per hour or 500 CZK per day, payable in cash or by card. We left the car parked and explored Karlovy Vary on foot.
Sleep: Home for our two nights in Karlovy Vary is the swanky Art Deco Wolker, an annexe of the ASTORIA Hotel & Medical Spa. We stayed on a half-board basis, enjoying fantastic buffet meals at the ASTORIA and access to their heavenly spa.
Day 3: In Karlovy Vary
During our one full day in Karlovy Vary, we had to balance sightseeing with our wellness routine — it is a spa town, after all. We went sightseeing and mineral water sipping during the day and enjoyed rejuvenating sessions in the sauna and pool after dark. Make sure to try one of the unique wellness or health treatments at your spa hotel.
This is what we saw and did in Karlovy Vary:
- Take a walk in the woods to Deer Jump Lookout and Peter’s Height for a panoramic view over Karlovy Vary
- Visit all the colonnades and try to taste all the mineral spring water
- Swing by Grand Hotel Pup from 007 Casino Royal
- Go on a guided tour of Kaiserbad, the Emperor Spa, to learn about the glamorous spa history of the former Karlsbad
- Ride the funicular to Diana Lookout for more sweeping views
- Have a meal and fantastic local beer at Goethe’s Beer House
- Have a coffee and cake at the legendary Elefant Cafe
- Consult the spa doctor for a personalised spa routine
Sleep: Art Deco Wolker
➜ Read our guide to Karlovy Vary
Day 4: Karlovy Vary to Český Krumlov
After breakfast, we enjoyed a hydrojet massage before hitting the road. We had a long drive ahead, crossing from West Bohemia on the border with Germany to South Bohemia, just north of Austria.
We headed south on the E49, passing by Plzeň, where we stopped for fuel, coffee, and a sandwich.
Filling stations in Czechia are self-service, which is something new to me, as that’s not how we do it in South Africa and the UAE. It’s simple, though: open the fuel cap, insert the nozzle, and pull the trigger. After that, go to the cashier, mention the pump number, and pay. Easy peasy!
After leaving Plzeň, we made a quick, unplanned detour when we saw a handsome building sitting on a forested hill not far from the road. That was enough to slow down and find the first country road vaguely going in that direction.
Having the freedom to go off plan is just one of the reasons why road trips are the best.
Soon, we found ourselves in Klášter, a village built inside the ruins of a 13th monastery, one of the most important in the Kingdom of Bohemia at its time.
Turns out the building we saw from the road was not a monastery (klášter) but the Zelená Hora Castle just beyond the village of Klášter. The castle is open to visitors, but we decided to push on. It was a very lovely, unplanned little detour.
Still heading south, the E49 delivered yet another surprise. As we approached the town of Blatná, the landscape became dotted with ponds and lakes, a beautiful change from the rolling hills and forests. To top it off, the road passes right in front of Blatná Castle, where we stopped to stretch our legs and snap a photo.
We decided not to get distracted again, so I stepped on the gas (within the speed limit, I promise) and gunned down the E49 toward České Budějovice. Just before reaching České Budějovice, Google Maps guided us down a narrow country road to Holašovice.
Driving along the narrow farm roads was incredibly scenic, and we did not encounter any other traffic until we arrived at Holašovice.
Holašovice
It’s not every day that you get an entire UNESCO site for yourself. Yet, that’s precisely what happened to us when we arrived at Holašovice. It might have something to do with us arriving very late in the afternoon and during the Christmas holidays.
This pretty village, dating from the mid-13th century, consists of 23 farmsteads built in a horseshoe shape around a village green and has remained pretty much unchanged since its founding.
It is recognized by UNESCO for being a well-preserved traditional Central European village and for its exceptional architecture.
The farmhouses, with their distinct gable facades, are built in the South Bohemian Folk Baroque, or peasant baroque, style, which is unique to the Czech Republic.
We spent just under an hour admiring the unique farmhouses, doing one lap around the village green.
➜ Read our guide to Holašovice
Holašovice to Český Krumlov
It’s about 25 km from Holašovice to Český Krumlov, and traffic remained non-existent until we reached the outskirts of Czechia’s most hyped town.
It was almost dark when we arrived at our hotel, so we parked the car, checked in, went for a stroll, and had dinner and a *few drinks before hitting the hay.
Parking: Our hotel has free, off-street parking for guests, which is a rarity in Český Krumlov. We left the car here during our entire visit and explored on foot. Most of Old Town Český Krumlov is pedestrianised, with paid parking outside the perimeter.
Sleep: We stayed at Boutique Hotel Romantick, and it was just grand. The breakfast is outstanding, and just a 10-minute walk to the Old Town centre. And, of course, FREE PARKING.
Day 5: In Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov is, for most, the crown jewel in the Czech Republic. If there is one place other than Prague that almost every tourist visits, it’s this town in South Bohemia. And for good reason: It’s gorgeous.
Yes, Český Krumlov is beautiful. It is also the most popular day trip from Prague, and as a result, it can get quite busy (okay, it’s very busy). However, 99.99% of the tourists visiting Český Krumlov are day trippers, leaving the town blissfully beautiful and charming in the mornings and after dark when the hordes have returned to Prague.
And that’s why we decided to stay for two nights. It was the best decision, giving us one full day to see the Český Krumlov with the hoi polloi daytrippers and a quiet morning and night to experience a completely different side that most will never experience.
Things to see and do in Český Krumlov
- Visit the castle
- Admire the view from the Cloak Bridge
- Explore the Old Town
- Take a photo of the castle and old town from Seminarni Zahrada
- Take a stroll after dark to see the town with the lights on
- Drink a *few beers at the Český Krumlov Brewery
- If you’re coming in December like we did, there is a fantastic Christmas market in the town square
Sleep: Boutique Hotel Romantick
➜ Read our guide to Český Krumlov
Day 6: In Český Krumlov to Prague
All good things come to an end (whoever decided that was stupid, but anyway). On our last day, there was not much to do besides driving back to Prague.
After breakfast, Highway 3 took us north, passing České Budějovice. We really wanted to make a quick stop to see České Budějovice’s beautiful town square, but decided we wouldn’t have enough time as our flight back to Dubai was leaving at 4 pm.
Our drive back to Prague International Airport was sad and uneventful. Later, we left Highway 3 to veer onto the E50 (the road we drove on the first day of our road trip), which took us almost to the airport. We had come full circle.
If you need to refuel your car before returning it, there is a filling station at the airport’s entrance.
Returning the car was sad and uneventful. We dropped the keys, wheeled our suitcase to the check-in counter, and, not long after, flew off to Dubai.
Game over.
Our Road Trip in Czechia: What Would We Change?
Our self-drive trip in Czechia was pretty damn fine. Everything we touch turns to gold, 😂 , but there is always room for improvement, right?
With only five days, we saw and did what we wanted to. It was enjoyable, and we didn’t feel rushed. Actually, there is nothing we would change if we had to do it again in only five days.
The only thing I would change is to add at least one more day to our itinerary.
With an extra day, we would love to spend another day in Mariánské Lázně. It feels like we have unfinished business there.
Or we could spend that extra day in České Budějovice to see the city square and visit the Budweiser Brewery.
After everything is said and done, we had an amazing road trip in the Czech Republic.
We made ourselves proud 😂
I’m sure we’ll do it again. 😂 😂
Time to hit the breaks on our Czech Republic road trip. If you have any questions, just go – you’ll figure it out. Or drop us a question in the comments below, and we’ll try our best to help
✌️