Christmas in Prague: Our Jolly 4-Day Itinerary

Don’t be a half-arsed jingler. Jingle all the way with our jolly good Christmas itinerary for Prague

Few places can hold a candle to Prague at Christmas. There’s something utterly magical about visiting the Czech capital during Christmas as the city transforms from its usual fantastic to the über-fantabulous. It truly is a dream destination for the holiday season.

A Christmas in Prague has long been on our radar, and so it was like a dream come true when our train pulled up at Prague’s main station on 22 December last year. Man, we were excited (understatement alert).

Christmas in Prague

Our Christmas trip to Prague was four nights long, and I think that was about right. With the shorter daylight hours in winter, four days gave us enough time to explore the city at a relaxed pace while we had more than enough time to drink beer and svarak and gorge on Christmas market food in between.

If you plan to spend Christmas in Prague (why else are you reading this?), here is our four-day itinerary filled with unforgettable moments and festive cheer.

Tips for Visiting Prague at Christmas

The festive season in Prague is truly magical, but there are some important things to keep in mind. With a little planning, you can have an unforgettable trip.

Accommodation: Christmas is a popular time to visit Prague, and accommodations in Old Town book up quickly. Secure your place to stay as soon as you have your travel dates. Our apartment, Residence 44, in the Karlín district was a short tram ride from the Old Town Square, which was a blessing in disguise. It was a nice break from the crowds of the Old Town.

Christmas Market Dates 2025: The main Christmas Markets in Old Town Square and Wenceslas Square will run from 29 November 2025 to 6 January 6.

Weather: Though everyone hopes for a white Christmas in Prague, snow is not guaranteed. Be prepared for all kinds of weather. We arrived a few days after the snow and missed the main event. One day, it was raining cats and Great Danes, and we refused to pay CZK 200 for an umbrella at the castle. As a result, we were soaked and freezing. Don’t be like us and bring an umbrella.

Opening times: Similar to other parts of Czechia, most places in Prague shut down from 24 to 27 December. Some of the touristy restaurants and stalls at the Christmas markets remain open, so it’s best to call ahead to ensure your preferred restaurant is open. We stocked up on snacks and some basic groceries (bread, ham, and cheese) on the afternoon of the 24th, which was a great decision.

Public transport: From 24 December to 26th, trams, buses, and the metro run on a reduced schedule, with services approximately every 20 minutes.

Best Christmas View: Go up the Old Town Hall to see the best city view and Christmas market in the Old Town Square below. It’s pure magic.

Our Prague Itinerary

Jin holds a Trdelník (chimney Cake) covered with sugar and cinnamon and wrapped in brown paper, which we bought at a Christmas Market in Prague
Christmas is trdelník (chimney cake) time

Our Christmas itinerary for Prague hinges on food, markets, architecture, and exploring the city on foot. We wanted to see and experience as much of the Christmas magic as possible, so this itinerary does not feature any art or historical museums. It’s a wonderful mix of famous attractions and a few hidden gems.

So, if you’re looking for things to do in Prague at Christmas, here is a great four-day itinerary. Consider it our Christmas present to you.

  • Day 1 Arrival: Old Town Square, Dinner at Tiskárna Národní
  • Day 2 Castle, Beer & Books: Prague Castle, Strahov Brewery & Library
  • Day 3: (Christmas Eve) Staré Město: Masaryčka Building, Jewish Quarter, Astronomical Clock, Cafe Orient, Vltava riverside, Chinese dinner at Nebeská vůně
  • Day 4: (Christmas Day) Malá Strana & Nové Město: Charles Bridge, St. Nicholas Church, John Lennon Wall, Wenceslas Square, Ukrainian lunch at Bistro Soloha, Lucerna Passage, Slight Uncertainty, Old Town Hall Tower, Christmas Market food dinner in Old Town Square

Day 1: Arrival, Christmas Market & Dinner

Our train from Vienna arrived around midday, and the first thing on the agenda was changing money as Czechia doesn’t use the Euro like Austria.

If you need to change money, DON’T DO IT AT THE MAIN TRAIN STATION! All the money exchange places charge a ridiculous commission. That’s what the lady at the counter advised us when we wanted to buy a transport pass for the next four days in Euros. Sadly, you can only pay for the transport pass in Czech Krones, so we had to bite the bullet.

Prague Christmas Market at night. You can see people standing by a table outside next to a Christmas tree drinking mulled wine, with the Old Town Square in the background. The photo was taken on 23 December

After going to our accommodation and unpacking, we were eager to kick-start our Christmas trip in Prague. And that meant one thing: Christmas market.

We took the tram to the Old Town Square (Staroměstské Náměstí), and the Christmas mood kicked in as soon as we arrived. We wasted no time grabbing a few glasses of svarak (mulled wine) while enjoying the wonderful atmosphere.

For dinner, we walked to Tiskárna Národní restaurant (location), which Jin had saved on her to-eat list in Prague. It is one of the best places for pork knuckle in the city, so she didn’t even have to look at the menu; her mind was made up.

I had the beef goulash and dumplings, which was great, but man, THAT PORK KNUCKLE!!! Do not come to Prague and not eat it – you will regret it.

Day 2: Prague Castle & Strahov

On our first full day in Prague, we visited the Prague Castle and Strahov Monastery. We also planned to see Queen Anne’s Summer Palace, but it was raining heavily, and the snow on the streets turned into slush, so sightseeing outside was not much fun on this day.

After seeing Prague Castle, it’s a short tram ride to Strahov Monastery and brewery.

A retro looking tram rides between trees in Prague's Castle district. The tram is red and cream coloured, with the number 23 and the destination isdisplayed as Zvonarka. You can see snow on the ground

Prague Castle

Prague Castle is the political and spiritual heart of Czechia and has some of the city’s top sights, so plan to spend a few hours there, including time for queuing.

We waited about 40 minutes in line in the rain without umbrellas to enter the St Vitus Cathedral. We bought tickets for the main Circuit and saw the Old Royal Palace, St George Church, and St Vitus Cathedral in the castle, but we decided to skip the Golden Lane as we were cold, wet, and miserable by then.

We also stopped at the Lobkowicz Palace Café inside the castle complex.

Prague Castle Hours in Winter ( 1 November to 31 March)
Castle grounds: 6.00 – 22.00
Entrance to buildings: 9.00 – 16.00

Entrance Fee for Main Circuit
Adults: CZK 450
Youth (6-16), students, over 65: CZK 300
Family 1-5 children under 16 + max two adults: CZK 950
Skip the line tickets €29.90

Old Royal Palace

The Vladislav Hall in the Old Royal Palace in Prague Castle. The vaulted ceilings almost look like giant flowers
The Vladislav Hall

The Old Royal Palace (Starý královský palác) was originally built in the Romanesque style in the 12th century by Prince Soběslav. In the 14th century, King Charles IV expanded the building and incorporated Late Gothic and Renaissance elements to match the style of the time.

Here, we first saw the magnificent Vladislav Hall, distinguished by its striking vaulted ceiling. This grand, rectangular hall was used for banquets, coronations, receptions for the Bohemian court, and even jousting competitions.

A large green glazed ceramic stove inside the Prague castle. It's more than twice the height of an adult man standing in front of it
The green stoves are nice and toasty

Upstairs from the Vladislav Hall is the Office of the Land Rolls, which houses the official books of the Bohemian Court of Justice. The walls and ceilings are adorned with hundreds of coats of arms of Bohemian nobility. We loved the green ceramic stoves in this area where we could warm up.

The Riders' Staircase in the Old Royal Palace, Prague
The Riders’ Staircase

Exiting the Old Royal Palace, you’ll walk down the Riders’ Staircase, a ramp that allowed knights to ride directly into the Vladislav Hall. The Riders’ Staircase is adorned with a beautiful Late Gothic rib vaulted ceiling.

St. George’s Basilica

The St. George's Basilica seen from the outside. People are walking around with umbrellas in the rain
St. George’s Basilica

St. George’s Basilica (Bazilika sv. Jiří) is the oldest surviving church in Prague Castle, dating from 920. The red and brown church is dedicated to St. George (the dragon slayer) and is primarily built in the Romanesque style.

Inside, St. George’s Basilica is plain with limestone walls, which is not the norm for churches in Prague. You won’t see stained glass windows or golden cherubs here. There are some faded ceiling paintings in the main nave and more vibrant examples in the dome at the exit.

The church also houses the tombs of the Premyslid dynasty and relics of saints.

Lobkowicz Palace Café

Prague city view seen from the balcony of the Lobkowicz Palace Café. You can see the Vltava River with several bridges spanning it
The view from Lobkowicz Palace Café

We popped in at the Lobkowicz Palace Café for two reasons: comfort and views. The rain did not give up, so we were completely soaked by the time we got to the swanky cafe. Luckily they let us in.

But our misery was soon forgotten after we got my svarak and Jin’s hot chocolate. And if that wasn’t good enough, the views over Prague from the balcony are just wow.

A glass of svarak (mulled wine) with a slice of orange in it. It is a traditional drink during Christmas in Europe
My trusted friend, svarak, keeping me warm

Lobkowicz Palace Café has seating inside, outside on the balcony with THAT VIEW or in the courtyard at the front. We sat inside, but you can take pictures on the balcony. There were also gas heaters out on the balcony for the polar bears or the smokers.

City view towards Prague Old Town from the Lobkowicz Palace Café in the Prague Castle
The Vltava, Charles Bridge and spires of the Old Town

The menu features hot and cold drinks and light meals. The cakes in the display look delish. Our drinks were not as expensive as we expected, and well worth it when looking for a break while getting one of the best views in Prague at the same time.

  • Opening hours: 10.00 – 18.00 daily

St Vitus Cathedral

Stained glass windows inside the St Vitus Cathedral in Prague Castle

The Czech Republic’s largest and most important church dominates the city skyline, and many think the St Vitus Cathedral is the Prague Castle. This Gothic masterpiece is as good as European cathedrals get, with soaring spires, gargoyles, ribbed ceilings, and exquisite stained-glass windows.

Construction started in 1344 and took almost six centuries to complete. It has always been the spiritual heart of Czechia and remains so to this day.

Stepping into St. Vitus Cathedral is like entering a realm of divine artistry and grandeur. As you pass through the towering Gothic arches, you’re immediately struck by the vastness of the nave, with its soaring vaulted ceilings that seem to touch the heavens.

Several side chapels contain the tombs of Bohemian patron saints with over-the-top carvings and sculptures in silver and wood, mosaics and frescoes, each telling a story of Czech history and Christian lore.

A photo of the Chapel of St Wenceslas inside the St Vitus Cathedral
Chapel of St Wenceslas

The grandest and most exquisite of the cathedral’s many side chapels is the Chapel of St. Wenceslas, with stunning frescoes and semi-precious stone inlays. Early 16th-century wall paintings illustrate scenes from the life of St. Wenceslas, the patron saint of the Czechs, while even older frescoes depict episodes from the life of Christ.

Strahov Monastery

A short tram ride from the castle brings us to the Strahov Monastery (Strahovský klášter), a Premonstratensian abbey founded in 1143. If it’s not raining, you could also walk between the castle and the monastery. The monastery is home to two gorgeous libraries and a brewery that has been brewing the good stuff for the last 600 years.

  • Opening hours: 9:00 AM to 4:30 PM
  • Closed: 24, 25 December
  • Library Entrance Fee: 150/80 CZK for adults/children
  • Free entrance to the brewery

Strahov Library

The Theological Hall, the baroque library at Strahov Monastery in Prague. The ceiling is decorated with stucco and frescoes while the walls are lined with bookshelves
Theological Hall

The Strahov Libraries house more than 60,000 books from the 10th to 17th centuries. Even people who don’t read will enjoy these beautiful spaces, especially with the recent trend on social media to post photos of beautiful libraries or bookshops.

Visitors are not allowed to enter the libraries and can only see the rooms from the corridor. This is a good thing; just imagine the Instagrammers climbing on the bookshelves for that perfect snap.

The corridor between the two libraries has several curiosities, books and documents on display to observe up close.

The Philosophical Hall, the classical library at Strahov Monastery in Prague. The ceiling is painted with frescoes while the walls are lined with walnut bookshelves
Philosophical Hall

The Philosophical Hall: The first library you’ll see is the Philosophical Hall, the younger of the two, dating from the late 18th century. This classical-style room, with its walnut shelves, has over 42,000 books on law, philosophy, history, science, pharmacy, maths, philosophy, and astronomy. The ceiling frescoes by Viennese artist Anton Maulbertsch depict mankind’s intellectual progress.

The Theological Hall: Completed in 1679, the Baroque room, with its stucco and frescoes, houses about 18,000 volumes on religion and theology, including a Book of Gospels written on parchment from the 9th century. The ceiling frescoes depict scenes from the Book of Proverbs.

Strahov Brewery

The two glasses of beer we had at the Strahov Brewery in Prague. There is a glass of of amber St. Norbert beer and a mug with dark lager

By the end of the day, we were absolutely miserable, wet, and cold, but that was all forgotten when we got to the Strahov Brewery. Nothing cheers a man up like a nice beer and warm food.

Strahov Brewery brews 25 kinds of beer, the most famous of which is St. Norbert. This unfiltered, unpasteurised beer is available in an amber or dark lager and an IPA.

Our dinner at Strahov Brewery. There. is a plate with goulash, served with fresh onions and dumplings. The other plate has four pieces of schnitzel, served with potato salad and a lemon wedge

We had an early dinner at the brewery. Jin ordered the dark lager beef goulash with dumplings, and I had the pork schnitzel with potato salad. Even though we were soaked and cold, we had to try their beer-flavoured ice cream for dessert.

Check out their menu and merchandise on the Strahov Brewery website.

Day 3: Staré Město

Today, we’re exploring Staré Město, Prague’s Old Town, with a self-guided walking tour of the Jewish Quarter. We visit the Christmas market, see the famous astronomical clock, and stop by one of Prague’s iconic cafes. In the evening, we’ll take a beautiful stroll along the Vltava to enjoy the city lights before having an authentic Chinese dinner.

Chinese food for Christmas Eve dinner??

Hell yes.

We love good Chinese, and as it was Christmas Eve, most of the Czech restaurants and shops closed in the afternoon for the Christmas break.

Masaryčka Building

We started the day with pastries and coffee at the bakery next to our apartment before getting the tram to the Old Town Square.

Just before reaching Old Town Square, we had to make a quick stop at Masaryk Railway Station to see the Masaryčka Building, Prague’s newest landmark.

After seeing her fantastic buildings in Seoul, Baku, Guangzhou, Beijing and Macau, we have become quite the Zaha Hadid architecture nerds. Whenever we travel, I always check if there is a Zaha Hadid building in that city, so I was thrilled to see the brand-new addition in Prague.

The Masaryčka Building’s striking design is a creative spin on Prague’s nickname, the Golden City of 100 Spires.

The facade is now completed, and the building is scheduled to open in 2026. Once open, the Masaryčka Building will serve as the gateway to the express rail link to Prague International Airport, as well as domestic and suburban rail.

Jewish Quarter

Prague architecture in the Jewish Quarter

Prague boasts the oldest Jewish community in Europe, with origins tracing back to the 10th century. Like other regions in Europe, Jews in Czechia endured severe persecution, yet the Jewish community endured.

Today, Prague is home to six synagogues and a cemetery, all crucial for anyone interested in the city’s culture, history, and architectural splendour.

We spent the entire morning walking in the Jewish Quarter, also known as Josefov, visiting all its synagogues and the cemetery. In addition to the Jewish heritage buildings, this part of Prague is blessed with some of the most beautiful streets and architecture in the city.

The dazzling interior of the Spanish Synagogue in Prague's Jewish Quarter
The Spanish Synagogue

We visited the Maisel Synagogue, Spanish Synagogue, Old New Synagogue, Klausen Synagogue, Ceremonial Hall, Pinkas Synagogue and the Jewish Cemetery. They all fall under the umbrella of the Jewish Museum in Prague with a combined entrance fee, so you might as well see them all.

Get your skip-the-line ticket (€24), and you’re ready to explore and learn about the history of Prague’s Jewish Quarter.

We loved the exotic designs of the Spanish Synagogue in contrast to the other sombre and traditional ones. The Pinkas Synagogue is a punch to the gut, with the entire interior of the building inscribed with the names of over 700,000 holocaust victims.

Tombstones in the Old Jewish Cemetery
Old Jewish Cemetery

Then, there is the Old Jewish Cemetery, which has thousands of tombstones almost stacked on top of each other. Despite its nature, it is one of the most beautiful places in Prague.

For detailed information on the Jewish Quarter, check out our self-guided walking tour of Prague’s synagogues.

Astronomical Clock

A composite photo of the Astronomical Clock in the Old Town Square in Prague. One the right, a photo shows the crowds in front of the clock. There are thousands of people-you cant even see the ground. On the right is a close up photo of the clock

You’ve probably walked by and seen the Astronomical Clock by now, but time your visit to fall on the hour and join the masses for the essential Prague experience. There is almost a sense of community as everyone gathers in anticipation of seeing the clock ring in the hour.

As one of Prague’s most famous attractions, it gets ridonkeylously crowded every hour. Come about 20 minutes before to get a space close to the clock, or you’ll be standing waaaaaay at the back and won’t see much.

The Astronomical Clock is a medieval marvel located on the southern wall of the Old Town Hall in Old Town Square. First installed in 1410, it is the third-oldest astronomical clock in the world and the oldest one still in operation.

The clock’s elaborate design includes an astronomical dial representing the position of the sun and moon in the sky and a calendar dial with medallions representing the months.

Every hour, onlookers gather en masse to witness The Walk of the Apostles, a delightful procession of twelve apostle figures emerging from the clock. This takes place hourly from 9:00 AM to 11:00 PM

Also note the skeleton figure ringing the bell, symbolising the passing of time and everyone’s inevitable fate.

Grand Cafe Orient

Looking up at the staircase at the House of the Black Madonna in Prague. Taking the staircase to the to the first floor brings you to the Grand Cafe Orient

Architecture or design enthusiasts, sweet tooths, and caffeine cravers will love the Grand Cafe Orient, just off Old Town Square (location). We fall into all the above categories, so the cafe was a must.

Apparently, it is the only cubist cafe in the world and is considered among Europe’s ten most beautiful cafes.

The interior of Grand Cafe Orient.

The cafe is on the first floor of the House of the Black Madonna, with the upper floors dedicated to the Museum of Decorative Arts and the Museum of Czech Cubism. The building, designed by Josef Gočár and opened in 1912, is one of the earliest examples of Czech Cubism. Unfortunately, on our visit, the museums were already closed for Christmas.

As you head to the first floor, a beautiful staircase begs for a photo. Inside Grand Cafe Orient, cubism is everywhere, from the coat hangers to the chandeliers and chairs. We shared a slice of Medovik (layered honey cake) over a pot of Earl Grey and a heavenly mug of Coffee Nocciolata while basking in the retro vibes.

Night Views Along the Vltava

A red and white tram runs in front of the The National Theatre in Prague
The National Theatre

Spend the rest of the day strolling and enjoying the touristy, Christmassy atmosphere of the Old Town. There are great options for last-minute Christmas shopping, beautiful churches to admire, and plenty of bars and cafes to enjoy. We had a few beers at Pivovar Národní (location), which was warm and cosy with cheap beer.

 A city view of Prague at night, with the Vltava river in the foreground with the St Vitus Cathedral and Prague Castle  towering above it. You can see the Charles bridge crossing the river on the right
Iconic Prague Views

Before it gets dark, head to the Vltava riverside for some iconic city views, which get even better once the lights go on. We found the area around the National Theatre (location) to be the most beautiful, as you can take photos with a view of the river, the castle, and the Charles Bridge all in one shot.

Dinner at Tianxiang Pavilion

We knew Prague would shut down on Christmas Eve, so we planned on having Chinese food for dinner at 天香阁 Nebeská vůně (location). The Chinese characters translate to Tianxiang Pavilion. It turned out to be a great choice since it was one of the few places open, and, well, it was damn delicious.

We took the tram to the Žižkov district, which dropped us right in front of the restaurant. We were lucky to get the last table (we should have made a reservation). The staff speaks Czech, Chinese, and English, so it’s advisable to call ahead to make a reservation when you plan to visit.

Our gua bua rou (sweet and sour pork) was as good as the ones in Beijing, and the bowl of malatang (spicy Sichuan hotpot) could give those in Chengdu a run for their money. The egg-fried rice was very good, too.

A couple walks in the long Žižkov Tunnel. The entire tunnel is covered with white tiles
Heading home in the Žižkov Tunnel

After dinner, we walked hand in hand (yes, we’re quite the romantics) home through the Žižkov tunnel. The tunnel runs underneath Vítkov Hill, linking the Žižkov and Karlín districts.

The 303-meter-long pedestrian tunnel was built in 1951 during the height of the Cold War. Inside the tunnel, a door leads to a shelter where 1,250 people can survive for 72 hours with food, electricity, and oxygen. The shelter has never been used but is still maintained by the local government for possible disasters. It’s not open to the public.

The tunnel does feel a bit eerie, but funny enough, on the Karlín side, an inscription above the entrance says NEBOJ, meaning Don’t Worry.

Day 4: Malá Strana & Nové Město

Merry Christmas!
Today was Christmas Day in Prague, but that didn’t stop us from exploring the smashing city on both sides of the river. In the morning, we visit the Charles Bridge, Prague’s most famous sight, before strolling through the Malá Strana district. There is a fantastic view and the famous John Lennon Wall waiting.

After that, we crossed the Charles Bridge back to Nové Město, where more Christmas markets, a nice Ukrainian lunch, and some other quirky sights await.

We end our Christmas itinerary for Prague where it started at the Old Town Square Christmas market.

Charles Bridge

A photo of the Charles Bridge , early before sunrise on Christmas morning

The Charles Bridge (Karlův most), connecting the Old Town with Malá Strana, is an iconic symbol of Prague and one of the most famous landmarks in Europe. It is by far the most photogenic spot in Prague and, as a result, swarms with tourists.

A photo taken on the Charles Bridge on Christmas morning, looking towards the Lesser Town with the Prague Castle behind it

To get good photos without the crowds, you need to come early. And by early, I mean before sunrise. That’s how I started my Christmas morning in Prague. I got up at 6 am and caught the tram to the Old Town while Jin decided to stay in bed. She values a good sleep above seeing a bridge without people.

The sun rises around 8 am, and seeing Prague Old Town without the hordes is a magical experience. However, I wasn’t the only one with this idea; many others had the same plan. Those who know will tell you the best time to see the Charles Bridge is before sunrise – even on Christmas morning.

Prague residents trying to get into church for Christmas morning mass. There are so many people that they can not all get inside
Prague residents gathering for Christmas morning mass

Our breakfast we made at home on Christmas morning in Prague. There are bread rolls with ham and cheese, fresh dill, a red apple, green grapes and a cup of coffee
Our DIY Christmas breakfast

After sunrise, I walked around the Old Town, where I saw locals cramming into churches for the Christmas morning mass. Then it was back home for a nice DIY brekkie. We faffed around and hummed Christmas songs at home before heading back to the Charles Bridge, this time with Jin, to cross over to Malá Strana.

St. Nicholas Church

Jin takes in the look from the view deck of the St Nicholas Church. You can see the Charles bridge. It looks cold

The Church of Saint Nicolas (Kostel svatého Mikuláše) should be on your Prague itinerary for two reasons. It is the most outstanding example of Prague Baroque, with a beautiful interior in pink hues, painted domes, marble columns, and gold details galore. To top that, the bell tower offers an incredible 360-degree view of Prague.

Dedicated to Saint Nicholas the Wonderworker, who later evolved into Santa Claus due to his love of giving secret gifts, it’s especially fitting to visit his church on Christmas Day.

The dome of the St Nicholas Church

Inside, you’ll bend your neck at every angle possible to take in the artistic splendour of the high Baroque architecture. Then, take the 215 stairs up the spiral staircase to the top of the bell tower.

Once at the top, you’ll be rewarded with a sweeping view over Prague. At 65 metres, the viewing platform is one of the highest in Prague, and fantastic views are guaranteed. Directly in front, you’ll see the Charles Bridge with the Old Town behind it, while in the other direction, you can see the Strahov Monastery standing on the hill.

John Lennon Wall

The Lennon Wall (Lennonova zed) is a symbol of peace, love, and freedom and a top spot to snap a photo during your Prague trip. It’s a colourful Prague landmark located in the Lesser Town across from the French embassy. It’s interesting to know that the wall is the property of the Sovereign Military Order of Malta.

After John Lennon’s assassination in 1980, the wall became an impromptu tribute. Over the years, it has been covered with graffiti, lyrics from Beatles songs, and messages advocating for global peace and human rights.

When I visited Prague in 1998, the wall looked very different. Turns out, on 17 November 2014, a group of students painted the entire wall white with only the words Wall is Over to commemorate the 25th anniversary of the Velvet Revolution.

In 2019, the wall became a canvas for protests against climate change and in support of Hong Kong democracy before CCTV was installed. That same year, the Sovereign Military Order of Malta restored the wall with the help of local artists.

Today, spray painting is prohibited, and visitors are encouraged not to leave their mark in Prague. If you absolutely must, messages of love, hope, or freedom can be made in chalk or pencil in the white spaces.

Ukrainian Food for Lunch

I crave good borscht whenever I get in this neck of the European woods, so for lunch, we Google-searched Ukrainian restaurants, and sadly, they were all closed on Christmas Day.

When we saw Bistro Soloha was open, we called immediately to make sure it was not a mistake. The friendly woman laughed when I wanted to make a reservation and said we should just come. We understood when we got there.

Bistro Soloha is small, with only four tables. It’s more cafeteria than bistro, and you order from what’s on display at the counter. But man, did it taste good!

We had the borscht, pelmeni (dumplings) with sour cream and butter, and a plate of something I’m not sure what it was. It might have been syrnyk, a cheesecake-like breakfast dish. Regardless, it was fantastic.

For cheap, friendly and tasty Ukrainian food in Prague, don’t miss Bistro Soloha (location).

Wenceslas Square Christmas Market

Wenceslas Square, more boulevard than a square, serves as the city’s commercial and cultural epicentre. Named after Saint Wenceslas, the patron saint of Bohemia, the square is lined with shops, cafes, restaurants, and hotels, and a Christmas market in December.

At the top of the square stands the impressive National Museum, overlooking the statue of Saint Wenceslas on horseback. Wenceslas Square is where the Velvet Revolution took place in 1989 when half a million Czechoslovakians peacefully protested for freedom and to mark the end of communism.

 Koruna Palace
Koruna Palace

On the opposite end of the square, look out for the Koruna Palace (location), Prague’s purest Art Nouveau-style building. The giant stoic statues standing under the pearl crown of the building are damn fine.

Lucerna Passage

Another Art Nouveau gem, the Lucerna Passage (Palác Lucerna), is not far from Wenceslas Square (location). This multi-purpose complex, opened in the early 20th century, features a grand interior with beautiful glass ceilings and elegant architectural details. The passage houses an eclectic mix of shops, cafes, a cinema, and the renowned Lucerna Music Bar.

A highlight is the quirky statue of Saint Wenceslas riding an upside-down and seemingly dead horse by Prague artist David Černý. The statue is meant to mock the equestrian statue of King (and later Saint) Wenceslas, which stands in Wenceslas Square. The exact meaning behind the statue remains a mystery, as the artist won’t reveal it

Slight Uncertainty

An art installation called Slight Uncertainty in Prague. It is a statue of a life-sized woman hanging on to a red umbrella, suspended mid air over a street

Prague is blessed with a fantastic collection of quirky statues and art installations. Slight Uncertainty by artist Michal Trpák is one of them, so we followed Google Maps (location) to go and see it for ourselves.

Slight Uncertainty offers a philosophical twist on the Mary Poppins theme of flying by an umbrella. The piece features two cement figures, a man and a woman, clinging to open umbrellas and floating mid-air above Odboru Street.

The uncertainty lies in their state of being, as these figures might ascend or descend. Are they excited or filled with fear? How long will the flight be? No one knows.

A gigantic fly watches from the wall of the building. Maybe it knows what’s going on.

Old Town Hall

Old Town Square Christmas Market in Prague seen from the top of the Old Town Hall. You can see market stalls and a giant Christmas tree in front of a beautiful church
Chrismast in Prague: City view with Christmas lights seen from the top of the  Old Town Hall.

We hesitated to pay almost CZK 400 (€16) to go up the Old Town Hall Tower (Staroměstská radnice), but we’re so glad we did! It has, hands down, the best view of Prague. Buy your entrance ticket online in advance to avoid the lines and get priority access.

The tower is the one with the Astronomical Clock on, so try to time your visit to be there at the hour when the clock does its thing. From inside the tower, you get a behind-the-scenes look at the apostles and mechanics of the clock. It’s pretty fascinating.

No matter how many photos you have seen of Prague at Christmas, the real view from the top of the tower will be the best Christmas present for yourself. The 360-degree view takes you from the Christmas Market in the Old Town Square to the castle on the other side.

Come before sunset and watch Prague light up for pure Christmas magic.

Christmas Market Dinner

Christmas market in Prague at night
 A stall selling Old Prague ham and sausage at the Christmas market. There is a long line of customers

The Old Town Square Christmas Market was rammed on 25 December, and the atmosphere was incredible. Most of the restaurants closing for Christmas might have something to do with this.

For dinner, we did our best to try as much Christmas market food and drink as humanly possible. There were hunks of the famous Old Prague Ham and sausage grilling over coals, the equally famous trdelník (chimney cakes), crepes, lángos (deep-fried flatbread), hot nuts, svarak (mulled wine), and churros on our menu. It was out of this world!

And there, with our tummies stuffed with market food and hearts full of memories to last a lifetime, we had time for one more glass of svarak before calling an end to our Christmas in Prague.

If you’re considering coming to Prague at Christmas, just go for it already.

2 Comments

  1. Hi
    I loved your post. Could you please tell me if the pic laballed as “The Vltava, Charles Bridge and spires of the Old Town” was taken also from the Lobkowicz cafe?
    Thanks!
    Silvia

    1. Hi Silvia,
      Good to hear our post is helpful. That photo was indeed taken from the cafe. That place has beautiful views.

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