Hit the ground running with our two-day Baku itinerary. We show you what to see, where to stay and eat, and how to make the most of your time in Azerbaijan’s capital. We really enjoyed Baku, and we’re sure you will, too.
Azerbaijan is not on most people’s list of places to see, but it should be. We treated Azerbaijan as a quick add-on to our trip to Georgia, which is a shame as we liked it a lot. Next time, we’ll spend longer than just two days in Baku.
There is no doubt that Azerbaijan is a worthwhile destination on its own. Baku, the capital, was an obvious starting point for our Caucasus trip and deserves at least two days.
Before landing in Baku, we knew little about it except that a scene of oil fields in a James Bond movie was shot here. Being a former Soviet Republic, we somehow expected deprived people who never smile to live in drab apartment buildings. How wrong we could have been!
The people are some of the friendliest (as elsewhere in the Caucasus), and there is definitely money to go around. We were pleasantly surprised.
If you’re planning a trip to Baku, here are the best things to do during a two-day stay in Azerbaijan’s capital.
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Quick Guide to Baku
When did we go? Mid-July. It was hot AF.
Where did we stay in Baku? Nice Style Apartment
How long should you spend in Baku? We suggest two full days. Those flying long haul will want to give themselves a day to get over the jet lag. We arrived from Hong Kong (a 13-hour flight) and were useless when we got there.
Getting around: We explored the Old Town on foot and used the metro and buses beyond that. Public transportation is cheap, efficient, and clean.
Safety: We felt safe everywhere we went. The people of Baku are incredibly friendly, and we had several cases where people would come up and ask if we needed help when we were looking at maps on our phones or bus routes at bus stops.
Reasons to Visit Baku
Azerbaijan is now easier and more affordable to visit than ever before. Thanks to the convenient and easy e-visa process and the value of the Manat (AZN), you really don’t have any excuse anymore not to visit this interesting country.
Gone are the days of jumping through bureaucratic firehoops with letters of invitation in hand. These days, you click here, click there, and three days later, you can be on your way.
Azerbaijan is not the expensive place it used to be, thanks to the exchange rate of the Manat and probably the drop in oil prices. We found it very affordable and excellent value for money.
Baku feels and looks strangely familiar in a very good way. Imagine for a moment being at a dinner party in Budapest, sharing the table with guests like sophisticated Paris, grand Moscow and Dubai, who is wearing all her bling as usual. A great time is had by all with everyone flirting back and forth.
Where to Stay in Baku
We stayed at this nice apartment between the train station and the Bulvar. The location is excellent for a city break in Baku, with easy access to public transport and many attractions within walking distance.
For breakfast, we buy fresh berries, bread, caviar, and yoghurt from Fresco supermarket down the street. It’s a short walk from 28 May Metro Station, where the airport bus stops and the train station if you are catching a train to Sheki or Tbilisi.
The apartment is spacious and clean and, probably best of all, has an AC. While it takes about 30 minutes to walk to the old town, it is near the bus stop, which will take you there in a much shorter time.
We were catching the night train to Sheki, so when we had to check out of our apartment, we walked a few blocks to Travel Inn Hostel, where we arranged to leave our bags for the day and take a shower before getting the train to Sheki.
The hostel is nice, and even considering our short time there, we can recommend staying here. We paid 10 Manats for both of us to leave our bags, shower, and use their AC and Wi-Fi in the lounge. Trust us, you will need a shower before getting on the train.
Itinerary & Things to Do With 2 Days in Baku
Our 2 day Baku itinerary is not rushed and gives you plenty of time to explore at a leisurely pace. You do not want to run around from one site to the next, especially in summer. Here are the highlights of our two days in Baku.
- Stroll along the Boulevard (Bulvar) along the Caspian Sea.
- Imagine you are in a Soviet version of King’s Landing, exploring the old city within the fortress walls. Rummage the shops in search of carpets, Soviet medals, or dragon eggs.
- Enjoy the view over the old city and the Caspian Sea from the Maiden Tower.
- Watch the Flame Towers light up at sunset.
- Admire the modern architectural curves and angles at the Heydar Aliyev Centre.
- Appreciate the modern wonder of air conditioning while appreciating the ancient art of carpets at the Carpet Museum.
- Have a cold Xirdalan beer at the 360 Bar
Arrival in Baku
After arriving from the airport, we unpack and then go grocery shopping for breakfast for the next few days. Even after our great flight from Hong Kong on Turkish Airlines, we struggle a bit with jet lag.
Around sunset, walk down to the boulevard, or Bulvar, as it is locally known. Strolling along the Caspian (sounds posh, right?) around sunset is great for people-watching while enjoying a well-needed sea breeze.
Day 1 in Baku: Exploring Modern Azerbaijan
Take the metro from 28 May station to Nariman Narimanov metro station, and then walk about 10 minutes to the Heydar Aliyev Centre. This modern architectural wonder is one of the main attractions and a symbol of modern Baku.
Entrance fee is 15 AZN to go inside, but free to look at from the outside.
The Heydar Aliyev Centre, designed by renowned architect Zaha Hadid, is splendid. We suspect that Baku is where our fixation with her architecture started. After seeing her work in Baku, we make sure to search for a Zaha Hadid building in the city we were visiting. Since Baku’s time, we’ve seen her brilliant work in Guangzhou, Macau, Beijing, Seoul, and Prague.
Bus number 5 will take you back to 28 May Station. You can also stay on the bus and continue to the old city. This bus passes the Maiden Tower, and you can get off at the Carpet Museum (one stop after the Maiden Tower).
It might sound a little boring, but we enjoyed the Carpet Museum. The building itself looks like a rolled-up carpet and is yet another symbol of modern Baku.
The entrance fee is 10 AZN. Plan to spend at least an hour here. You can use your phone to click photos for free; otherwise, it’s 10 AZN to use your camera. Exhibits stretch from ancient times to modern avant-garde designs.
Guided tours in English, Arabic, Russian and Azerbaijani are available at 12 AZN or an audioguide for 5 AZN.
Climb the Maiden Tower & Dinner
The 12th-century Maiden Tower is the de facto entrance to Baku’s old town. The entrance fee is a steep 15 Manats, which is a complete ripoff. After climbing 150 stairs to the top, you’ll have a nice view over the old town and the Caspian Sea, though. We didn’t like how there was a glass barrier on top of the tower, though. It feels as if it somehow obstructs your view. The tower is open from 9 am-6 pm.
Stroll around the Maiden Tower area before having a small bite and drink at in an atmospheric caravansary. Mugam Klub Restaurant has an incredible setting. We cannot recommend coming here for dinner, though, as it’s overpriced and of poor value for money. It’s extremely atmospheric, though, and a good place for a quick snack or drink. The cheese platter is a good choice.
After dinner, head back towards the Bulvar and see the Flame Towers dancing in multiple colours. Then, look for the Hilton sign and make your way to the 360 Bar on the 25th floor of the Hilton.
This revolving bar is the place to kick back in the comfort of AC while enjoying an ice-cold tipple or two. Prices are very reasonable and the perfect place to end the first day of our 2-day Baku itinerary.
DAY 2 in Baku: Old City
Plan to spend most of day 2 of our itinerary leisurely exploring the old city within the Baku fortress wall. We felt like walking around King’s Landing. Also, make sure to see the area surrounding the old city to see the avenues, parks and fountains, which might as well be in Paris.
Nizami and Tolstoy streets have some excellent architecture with cafes and bars to distract you from the furnace-like summer heat. After an early dinner at the food court of the 28 May Mall, freshen up and make your way to the Railway station to catch the train to Sheki.
We feel that 2 days is just the right amount of time to see the highlights of Baku and get a feel for this fascinating city. One thing we didn’t do was go to the mud volcanoes of Gobustan just outside of Baku. With an extra day ( and cooler weather) this can also be on your Baku itinerary.
How to Get from the Airport to Baku City Centre?
Get a BakiKart from the machine outside the terminal building at the airport since the buses will not accept cash. Instructions are not in English but fear not, a friendly local will help you out. With the BakiKart, you can use the airport bus, metro and city buses.
You don’t need to buy a BakiKart for every traveller – one will do for several travellers. The ride into town costs a mere 1.30 Manat, which is about $US1. Buses leave every 30 minutes and will drop you off at 28 May metro station.
Where to Eat in Baku
For breakfast, we bought fresh berries, black bread, yoghurt, caviar, deli meat, and tea from the supermarket. These were delicious and cheap. Donner kebabs and shwarmas cost about 1.5-2 AZN and make a good bite on the go.
We always start the day with caviar and a selection of fresh fruit when on a Caspain city break.
*in our poshest accents
Merhaba (location) serves tasty but cheap Turkish food and has crispy aircon. We went there twice and would recommend it. The lentil soup and kunefe are as good as in Anatolia and seem popular with locals over lunch.
Try the kunefe: a Middle Eastern dessert of semolina dough soaked in syrup and layered with melted stringy cheese and ice cream.
The bill for two lamb kebabs, two lentil soups, two ice teas and a kunefe came to 14 AZN.
The Mugam Klub Restaurant (formerly known as the Karvansaray Restaurant), just down the street from the Maiden Tower, is a very atmospheric place for a drink and a light snack.
While we really liked the atmosphere, the portion of lamb chops was tiny and overpriced. They disappeared before we could even take a picture of it. The chicken and apricot plov was small but tasty. The cheese platter was much better and hit the spot, though.
Come here for a drink and a small bite, but have your main meal elsewhere. (location)
The food court on the top floor at 28 May Mall (location), across the road from the Metro with the same name has a big selection to pick and mix as you choose.
The Two Seasons Boutique Hotel seems like a wonderful place to stay in the old town. We popped in to escape the midday heat and enjoyed a pot of tea and hookah in the classy setting. (location)
2 Days in Baku Itinerary Map
How I Shot This Guide
Every photograph in this article was taken with the exact same gear I carry on every journey. It is a setup refined over years on the road to keep travel light without compromising the final image.
- Camera: Sony A7 V
- Lens: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG DN Art
- Storage: SanDisk Extreme Portable SSD
- Software: Adobe Lightroom Classic
- My travel essential: Ray-Ban Wayfarer
That’s What You Do With 2 Days in Baku
We hope you find our 2-day itinerary for Baku useful. Enjoy your time in Baku. Drop us a comment below if you have any questions.