The Black Sea is not black. It’s a beautiful dark blue, but not black – that’s the first thing we noticed when we came to Amasra in Turkey. The second thing we discovered in Amasra was how beautiful it is.
We hate calling someplace a hidden gem, but, for once, we can’t think of a better way to describe Amasra.
When Fatih Sultan Mehmet conquered Amasra from the Genoese, he called this beautiful town on the Black Sea Çeşm-i Cihan (The apple of the eye of the world). Half a century later, Amasra remains one of the most beautiful spots in Turkey.
With roughly 6000 residents, Amasra is the perfect place for a quiet beach holiday in Turkey. With placid, clean water and sandy beaches backed by pine-covered mountains, Amasra is a timeless beauty.
If you’re looking for things to do in Amasra, there are a few. It’s a small town you can see in a full day.
But then, you don’t really come to Amasra for things to do. Come for the beautiful beaches, slow life and fresh seafood, and you won’t ever want to leave.
You can easily spend a week or more here in summer, swim all day long, gorge on fresh seafood and have a few drinks at a waterfront tavern every night. That’s our idea of a perfect summer beachside holiday.
We spent two slow and beautiful days in Amasra this previous April, and this laid-back Black Sea town quickly became one of our favourite spots in Turkey.
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Quick Guide to Amasra, Turkey
When did we go? Second week in April. One day was rainy and the second was a perfect sunny spring day. It was quiet but not dead.
It does get busy over the summer with Turkish holidaymakers.
Where did we stay in Amasra? Seymen Hotel
How long to spend in Amasra? We stayed in Amasra for two nights which was just long enough to see everything at a relaxed pace. In summer, you can easily spend a week or more here if you’re a beach bum.
Getting to Amasra: We rented a car in Istanbul and drove to Amasra (stopping in Safranbolu on the way for a few days).
Driving from Safranbolu took roughly 1.5 hours, including a few stops. From Amasra we drove to Ankara, which took us about 4 hours. Having your own wheels is just grand – we recommend Discover Cars for the best rates in Turkey.
Special experience: Go on a boat trip around the peninsula to see Amasra from the most beautiful angle.
Where to Stay in Amasra
Anywhere in Amasra will be near the beach as the town is tiny.
When you stay at Seymen Hotel, you’ll be just across the street from Küçük Liman Beach and right next to the Amasra Museum. It has an excellent location.
Our recently renovated room was fresh and comfortable, with a balcony facing the beach.
Breakfast is served on the top floor, with great views of the beach and Amasra castle.
Free parking is available, and we left the car there while we explored the town on foot during our two days.
About Amasra, Turkey
Amasra is a small Black Sea port in Bartin Province. It has a permanent population of about 6 000, which doubles in the summer months as Turks flock to the beaches for their summer holidays. Amasra is the beach closest to Ankara, making it a popular weekend and holiday spot in summer.
It is an old place with a history of almost 3000 years. Established as a Roman port, the Byzantines and the Genoese followed before Fatih Sultan Mehmet conquered the Genoese colony for the Ottoman Empire in 1460.
The town consists of a peninsula jutting into the Black Sea with two islets, Boztepe and Rabbit Islands.
Boztepe is connected to the mainland by the (very short- only a few meters long) Kemere Bridge. The Amasra Castle sits on both sides of the Kemere Bridge.
The castle section on Boztepe is called Sormagir Kalesi, while the Zindan Kalesi part is on the mainland.
Rabbit Island is uninhabited if you don’t count the seagulls and rabbits.
Visiting Amasra is a beautiful experience, with a bit of everything: great beaches, gorgeous scenery, history, fantastic food and friendly people. It was a great place to stop for a few days on our Black Sea road trip.
Things to Do in Amasra to Experience the Splendour of the Black Sea
Amasra’s allure lies in its stunning coastal scenery, where lush pine-covered mountains drop into the deep blue waters of the Black Sea. The town truly has a postcard-perfect setting. Beautiful Amasra will linger in your memory long after you’ve left.
Besides beaches, Amasra’s compact but beautiful town is filled with history, quirky streets, colourful characters and a ton of cats to see and meet.
Below are the best places to visit and things to do in Amasra, to experience the beauty of the Black Sea in Turkey.
Amasra Beaches
Amasra is a beach town with stunning Black Sea beaches. So that’s where we’ll start exploring the town.
The Black Sea at Amasra is glassy and calm, almost like an enormous lake. A narrow isthmus separates two long, sandy beaches in town, and you can walk from one beach to the other within minutes.
Amasra’s two town beaches simply translate to Big Harbour and Small Harbour beaches.
The rocky headlands around the Amasra Castle have some secluded rocky coves for swimming, diving or fishing.
Relax on Büyük Liman Beach
The Big Harbour Beach (Büyük Liman Plajı) is the most popular beach in Amasra. Come to Amasra between late June and September, and you’ll find this stretch of sand rammed with sun loungers and umbrellas.
When we came in early April, it was completely empty except for a few fishermen fixing their boats and a crazy lovely German family who were brave enough to swim. Based on their exclamations of hammer geil and sehr gut, they had a great time.
A few beach cafes and restaurants right on the water serve food and alcoholic and soft drinks. I had a beer, and Jin had tea while we smoked sheesha and enjoyed the warm spring weather. It was pretty perfect.
Watch the Sunset on Küçük Liman Beach
Amasra’s other beach, the Small Harbour Beach, has a beautiful setting enveloped by the Amasra Castle, Kemere Bridge and Boztepe. The gaggle of geese that lives here also provides some distraction from oohing and aahing over the nice views.
Facing west, the beach is a great spot to watch the sunset. Come here for a stroll or sit on a bench when the sun begins to drop.
We found Küçük Liman much prettier than Büyük Liman, but Büyük Liman looked much better for swimming.
The restaurants facing Small Harbour have nice views and fantastic seafood menus, while Big Harbour Beach seemed better for having a drink.
Unravel the Layers of Roman, Byzantine, Genoese & Ottoman Heritage in the Amasra Castle
Amasra is a 3000-year-old citadel with layers of heritage on top of each other. Though not much of the actual castle remains, you can still see sections of grey stone walls meshed between the houses.
The origins of Amasra Castle trace back to the Romans, who initially constructed it. The Byzantines bolstered its defences by adding walls, and later in the 14th and 15th centuries, the Genoese added gates and additional fortifications.
The original Genoese coat of arms that once adorned the gates can be seen in the Amasra Museum.
Perched in the Boztepe and Zindan districts, the Amasra Castle is connected by the Kemere Bridge. A trio of gateways safeguards this Roman bridge, and the remaining sections of the castle walls serve as vantage points to observe the remnants of Amasra Castle.
Recognizing its historical significance, the Amasra Castle has been included in the UNESCO tentative list as part of the Trading Posts and Fortifications on the Genoese Trade Route from the Mediterranean to the Black Sea.
These Genoese trading posts include eight forts and the Galata Tower in Istanbul.
Step Back in Time at the Amasra Museum
Visit the small yet fascinating Amasra Museum to delve into the region’s ancient history. The museum’s four display halls are thoughtfully divided, showcasing archaeological and ethnographic artefacts.
The archaeological section displays items from Hellenistic, Roman, Byzantine, and Genoese periods.
Among the finds are delicate glass tear bottles, fascinating makeup tools like tweezers, mirrors and ornate hairpins. The collection of coins provides a glimpse into the economic and cultural exchanges of the past.
This section also displays exquisite marble statues, stelae, and busts that tell their own stories of history and artistic craftsmanship.
In the ethnography section, the focus shifts to the late-Ottoman period, presenting objects that offer insights into the daily lives and cultural practices of the time.
Here, you can see exquisite silver jewellery and textiles unique to the Amasra region.
After seeing the displays inside, stroll around the garden to see more marble pieces that they just couldn’t fit into the building.
We always find it fascinating how much history there is in Turkey. So much that they cannot even put everything inside the museum. That’s even the case at the famous museum in Ankara and Istanbul.
Opening Hours:
1 April – 1 October: 08:30 – 20:00
2 October -31 March: 08:30-17:00
Closed on Mondays
Entrance Fee: TRY40
See Rabbit Island From the Weeping Tree
Sitting on the edge of a cliff in Boztepe facing Rabbit Island, Weeping Tree is the name of a large cypress tree and also the outdoor cafe underneath it.
This 300-year-old cypress tree (Aglayan Agac in Turkish) derives its name from a fascinating natural phenomenon. As moisture from the sea accumulates in its branches, it eventually becomes too heavy, causing droplets to fall like tears.
Spend some time on a bench at the Weeping Tree Cafe and enjoy the marvellous view of Rabbit Island and the sea breeze. If your curiosity gets the better of you, try out the coin-operated binoculars to see if there are real rabbits on Rabbit Island (yes, there are).
Take in Amasra’s Scenic Sea & Landscapes
Follow the path behind the Weeping Tree, and you have two choices. Both will reward you with fantastic scenery. These tracks are not signposted but easy to follow, so just walk until the views wow you.
Keeping to the right, the path leads to the small Amasra lighthouse. From here, you’ll see nothing but glorious Black Sea until you get to Ukraine.
Another path forking to the left goes to one of the most beautiful spots in Amasra. This track goes all the way to the top of Boztepe with FANTASTIC views of Amasra below.
From here, you’ll get a sweeping view over the Small Harbour and Big Harbour behind it and the forested mountains in the back.
Come here in the late afternoon when the light is soft. You and your camera will love it.
Take a Boat Trip Around Amasra & Rabbit Island
One experience you shouldn’t miss in Amasra is the chance to take a boat trip around town. We weren’t planning on it since we thought Amasra was beautiful enough from the land. But then we walked past a boat, and when the captain said Rabbit Island Boat Trip, we said yes without thinking twice.
The cruise lasts 40 minutes and takes you from the marina in Big Harbour along the seawall and then cruising out into the Black Sea to Small Harbour before turning around.
Along the way, we stopped at the Kemere Bridge, followed the rocky shores under the Weeping Tree, headed around Boztepe, and ended up in Small Harbour, where we saw the Kemere Bridge from the other side.
Going back the same way, we circled Rabbit Island, where the captain threw some bread to the swarming seagulls. Before entering the Big Harbour, we were lucky enough to briefly spot dolphin fins surfacing.
A boat trip is a beautiful and relaxing way to see Amasra. Definitely don’t miss it. We had to wait about 20 minutes for the boat to get enough passengers before leaving. Our boat had splace for ten passengers.
Price: TRY 50 (it’s a steal, I know).
Swim Where Princess Amastris Did
Situated on the side of Little Harbour near the Kemere Bridge, you’ll find Direkli Kaya, also known as Pillar Rock.
This stone structure stands 7 meters tall atop a rock within the bay, connected to the land by a narrow walkway. The Genoese constructed Pillar Rock as a lighthouse and lookout point.
You’ll find the remains of a square-shaped swimming pool next to the tower. It’s believed that the pool was the private bathing spot of Princess Amastris, after whom Amasra was named.
Amastirs was a Persian queen and tyrant ruler of the city of Heraclea. She was the first woman to issue coins under her name, some of which can be seen in the Amasra Museum.
History aside, Direkli Kaya is a beautiful spot in Amasra, especially around sunset. In summer, this will be a sweet swimming spot, too.
Stock Up On the Good Stuff at Amasra Kapalı Pazar Alanı
Amasra Kapalı Pazar Alanı is the town’s covered market and is held daily.
Unlike the souvenir market selling tacky bracelets and other crap, the Amasra Covered Market is a colourful and authentic experience where you can stock up on fresh Black Sea produce and meet the friendly stall owners.
Whether looking for fresh fruit and veg, herbs, cheese, olives, hazelnuts, jams, pickles and preserves, or just friendly and colourful vibes, this market has it all.
As we were flying home the next day, we felt the urge to take some of Amasra and Turkey back home with us, so we bought a jar of rose jam and some natural honeycomb.
Meet the Colour and Characters of Amasra
Quirky is the best way to describe the streets inside Amasra Castle. Here you’ll see plants growing out of old boots, a mermaid on a wall, or a clowder of cats waiting outside a house for their dinner.
While we were looking around the Fatih Mosque (a converted Byzantine church from the 9th century), a friendly man came to say hello. He pulled us into his garden to show off the Byzantine marble container he had in his garden.
In broken English, he introduced himself as Ahmed, and we quickly found common ground, as he is a retired teacher. Instead of discussing classroom management or differentiated learning, he took me by the arm and dragged me down a passageway and some steps to a stunning swimming spot on the rocks.
He gestured that from there, he likes to swim to Rabbit Island. And then, he quickly excused himself as afternoon prayers were about to start.
If I ever go missing in the summer – come look for me at Ahmed’s swimming spot in Amasra.
Kuskayasi Road Monument
Kuşkayası Yol Anıtı (Bird Rock Monument) is an ancient road marker from the Roman Empire. Gaius Julius Aquilla built this roadside monument between 41-54 AD as a pitstop for Roman legions passing through.
The monument, the only one in Anatolia, features the headless statues of a soldier and an eagle carved into the rock.
Bird Rock Monument is located about 4km outside Amasra on the road to Bartin. We made a quick stop here on the way from Safranbolu.
It was pouring when we visited, but we suspect the views on sunny days from here over Amasra and the Black Sea will be grand.
Eat Hamsi & Mezgit
For us, a trip to any fishing village is all about boat trips, salty sea breezes, cold beers, quirky characters and perhaps most important, SEAFOOD.
We had a fantastic seafood dinner at Günbatımı Balik, a restaurant right on the water above Small Harbour.
Getting to business, we got a window table, ordered an icy Efes Lager for a sundowner and then ordered away.
We had the hamsi (anchovy), mezgit (haddock) and fried calamari. Amasra is famous for these small but tasty fish.
Besides seafood, Amasra is also famous for its salad. A legit Amasra salad has at least 36 ingredients and is an explosion of colour, texture, and taste.
After dinner, stroll along the waterfront to the Kemere Bridge for pretty views.
What Shall the Good Vegetarians Eat in Amasra?
Can’t stand fish or vegetarian? Don’t worry; you’ll still eat well in Amasra.
For a meal that doesn’t involve fruit from the sea, Günay Et Lokantası between Big and Small Harbours is the place to be.
This cheap and no-frills place was full of locals when we came for lunch, which is always a good sign. You can choose from several soups of the day, both veg and non-veg. They also have a rep for tasty rice (Korean bloggers claim it’s better than Korean rice – blasphemy!)
We had a bowl of lentil soup, chickpea stew, stuffed peppers and some of their tasty rice.
Our bill for this filling meal came to TRY 135.
Thanks, But I Live Off Coffee & Sugar
We know that sometimes all you need is a regular flat white or Americano and a decadent slice of cake, and everything will be fine. If you ever feel like that in Amasra or crave a good piece of cake, Marina Cafe is your place.
This coffee shop between the marina and beach in the Big Harbour has a tempting selection of cakes with inside and outside seating overlooking the fishing boats and Büyük Liman beach.
Their cakes are rich and good in size, definitely enough for sharing.
And that’s a wrap for our travel guide to Amasra Turkey. Enjoy your Black Sea trip
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