Asu Island Travel Guide: A Genuinely Off-the-Grid Island Experience in Sumatra

The waters of the Hinakos are clear and support healthy marine life, which is excellent for snorkelling and fishing. The inner side of Asu facing Nias is protected from the enormous swell and is the best place for snorkelling and swimming.

The outer side of Asu faces the Indian Ocean, with no land between Indonesia and Africa. This is where you’ll find Asu’s famous lefthander surf. Strong currents on the Indian Ocean side of Asu also attract game fish, and tuna, wahoo, and dorado are common here.

An earthquake hit this part of Sumatra in 2005, just a year after the devastating Boxing Day tsunami. Asu was raised about three metres, and the effect of this massive force is best seen on the island’s western side, where you’ll see huge crevasses running into the ocean along the exposed coral.

Asu is less than a kilometre wide and about three kilometres long, and you can walk around most of the island in a few hours. Coconut trees cover most of the island.

Medan is the capital city of Sumatra, with frequent flights to Singapore, Malaysia and other parts of Indonesia.

Medan is of no interest to travellers, and it’s best to get a connecting flight as soon as possible. If you have to stay over in Medan to catch a connecting flight the next day, I recommend staying at the excellent Tong’s Inn near the airport.

Several daily flights between Kuala Namu and Gunungsitoli cost about USD70 and take just under an hour. Get a window seat, as the view of Sumatra’s volcanoes puffing smoke and Lake Toba are incredible.

Arrange with Mama Silvi after booking your accommodation to send a driver to collect you at Binaka Airport in Gunungsitoli. I sent her a message on booking.com to ask about transport.

A bumpy ride across Nias Island should get you to Sirombu in about 3 hours. The price for the private transfer from Gunungsitoli to Sirombu was IDR 700 000.

At Sirombu, a speed boat will meet you and whisk you off to paradise in about 30 minutes. The speedboat costs IDR 700 000 each way.

So, the total cost for the return trip from Gunungsitoli to Asu island came to IDR 2800 000 (just under USD 200).

It is possible to take public transportation to Sirombu and then a slow public boat to the Asu, but this will take forever, and you’ll need the patience of a saint to enjoy this experience.

My cottage came with two single beds, each with a mosquito net. I think the nets might be more for ambience than keeping bugs out, as I had no problem with critters whatsoever.

The en-suite bathroom is Indonesian-styled with a scoop and bucket shower. It only has cold water, but you really don’t want (or need) a hot shower in the tropics. The Western-style toilet also flushes with a bucket of water.

You can swing outside on the porch in your hammock and listen to the sea breeze rustling between the palm fronds. Electricity is not 24/7, but it was mostly on during the evenings until I went to sleep.

I paid IDR 300 000 per night for my cottage. Additionally, Mama Silvi asked me IDR 100,000 per day for meals. Meals were simple yet tasty, and varied daily.

Another good place for small fish is under the jetty in front of Puri Asu. Snorkelling among the enormous school of tiny fish changing shapes was quite surreal.

The current gets stronger as you get closer to Asu Surf Camp on the island’s northern tip, but you can still get some good snorkelling and coral that way.

Unless you’re staying at Puri Asu (who might have snorkelling gear), bring your own mask, snorkel, fins and any other equipment you’ll need.

An earthquake measuring 8.6 on the Richter scale hit the Hinakos in March 2005, just three months after the Boxing Day Tsunami. This devastating earthquake raised the seabed around Asu by as much as three metres. You’ll see massive trenches and crevasses running along the raised rock bed on the beach, a vivid testament to the power of nature as you walk here along the coast.

Facing directly west, this is a great spot to come for sunset. Sitting almost on the equator, the sunsets here last just a few minutes before it gets dark, so better bring a torch or hurry back to Mama Silvi’s before night falls.

Two Japanese surfers showed up one day and left again disappointed the next day to return to Lagundri Bay on Nias.

If you’re looking to have a tropical island all to yourself, come to Asu from November to February.

For my last five days on Asu, I shared my private island with a couple in their sixties from Cornwall. When I asked why they would come all the way to Asu, they said they wanted to sit and stare vacantly. And Asu is just the place to do that.

The people are friendly, and the grilled fish is fresh off the boat. The excellent Nias Heritage Museum is reason enough for a quick stopover in the island’s capital. Fascinating tribal art and photography give visitors insight into the distinct culture and customs of Nias Island.

Hotel Nasional won’t win any prizes soon for the best hotel in Indonesia, but it’s top quality for Nias. And it is cheap, comfortable and clean, and the Nasi Lemak for breakfast is outstanding.

Asu Island is remote and it could be your paradise or hell, depending on what you’re looking for.

You will love Asu if you’re looking for a pristine tropical island experience well off the beaten path. Asu offers an exceptional beach, outstanding snorkelling, world-class surf and a genuinely off-the-grid experience without compromising on comfort too much.

If you’re looking for nightlife, organised activities, shopping, fast internet or luxury, you’ll probably hate it. If that’s your thing, go to Bali instead.

But, if you decide to visit Asu Island, I’m sure you’ll love it as much as I did. A word of warning – don’t think a few days are enough. Plan to spend at least a week on Asu, and then prepare yourself to extend your stay.