Travel Guide to Samosir Island & Lake Toba: Batak Culture and Beauty in Sumatra

When the world’s largest supervolcano blew its top almost 80,000 years ago, it left behind something extraordinary on the Indonesian island of Sumatra. Lake Toba is the world’s largest volcanic lake surrounded by steep, green mountains with magical little Samosir Island in the middle of the lake.

Yes, an island on an island is as magical as it sounds!

I loved Samosir Island before I even set foot on it. As the ferry approached the island and the ferry dock came into sight, the local passengers broke out in impromptu song and dance. While I have read about the legendary Batak people of Lake Toba, their hospitality, and love for music and having a good time, I wasn’t prepared for this genuine welcoming.

I floated toward Samosir, overwhelmed with happiness on indigo water and surrounded by an emerald-green wall of mountains surrounding it. I told you already that Lake Toba is undiluted magic, and something you must come and experience!

If you’re looking for one of the best places to chill in Southeast Asia, here is our guide to Samosir Island on Lake Toba, Sumatra.

Lake Toba the New Bali?

Most visitors to Indonesia, sadly, only visit Bali. To most, Bali IS Indonesia. 

With tourist numbers to Bali increasing annually, the Indonesian government hopes to entice visitors to see more of the country besides Bali. 

It has earmarked ten beautiful destinations across the country to promote as the New Bali . The Ten New Balis are: Moratai, Wakotobi, Labuan Bajo, Mandalika, Mount Bromo, Borobudur, Tanjung Lesung, Kepulauan, Tanjung Kelayang and Lake Toba. 

Of the ten, Lake Toba, Borobudur and Madalika will be prioritized.

In the past, Lake Toba was a must-visit place to kick back and relax on the Banana Pancake Trail. But it fell off the map with the rise of low-cost flights straight to Bali. The fact that many associate northern Sumatra these days with tsunamis, earthquakes and Sharia law didn’t help, either.

So, can Lake Toba be the new Bali?
I hope not!

When I asked people in Samosir what they think of all this, the reply was that it’ll never happen. Off course, they are hopeful for more job creation, infrastructure development and investment, but the reality is that it will probably take decades.

With Singapore and Malaysia just a short plane hop away from Lake Toba, there definitely is a market. And we’re sure that people will keep coming once the word is out on Lake Toba’s magic.

How to Get to Samosir Island

Kualanamu International Airport in Medan has regular flights to Singapore, Malaysia and other cities in Indonesia.

From Medan: Lake Toba is a 4-5 hour drive from Medan, and the best way to travel between the two is by kijang. A kijang is a shared car (usually an Avanza) where you pay for an individual seat and share the ride with other passengers. 

Medan is of no interest to tourists, so best to leave as soon as possible. Nice Trans kijangs go from outside the arrival hall at Kualanamu. Take a right once you leave the airport building, and ask people for Nice Trans to Parapat, and they will point you in the right direction.

A seat in a kijang from Medan to Parapat goes for IDR 90,000, or IDR 500,000 for the whole car.

The kijang will take you from the airport to the town of Parapat at the lakeshore. From Parapat, hourly ferries (between 8:30 am – 6 pm) cross to Tuktuk on Samosir Island. The ferry crossing takes about 30 minutes and costs IDR 20,000.

If your flight to Medan arrives late, stay at Thong’s Inn near the airport. Ask the hotel to call for a kijang the next day, and it might come to pick you up at the hotel. Thongs Inn also provides free shuttles to and from the airport. I stayed at Thong’s Inn for three separate nights when transitting through Medan, and comes highly recommended.

From Bukit Lawang: If you’re going to see the orangutans in Bukit Lawang (yes, you should), a kijang from Parapat will get you there in about 8 hours. It’s a long drive, and you’ll pass through Medan and its traffic on the way. 

A kijang seat from Parapat to Bukit Lawang costs IDR 200,000. Ask your hotel in Samosir to book a seat for you a day or two before departure. 

Reasons to Visit Lake Toba & Samosir Island

It’s cheap: Lake Toba is an affordable destination offering unbeatable value. Comfortable rooms on the lake start from as little as $10 a night. (We recommend staying at Romlan). Good meals are a few dollars each, and entrance to the cultural sights is either free or a few cents.

The Bataks: A highlight of visiting Lake Toba is the friendly Batak people. The Bataks are known for their warm hospitality, unforced smiles, and love for having a good time. All of these they share with their guests. 

Just like Samosir, the Bataks are an island. The Bataks are predominantly Christian, unlike the rest of Sumatra, which is Muslim. You can see churches in the villages at Lake Toba, eat delicious pork, and the Anker Beers are always chilled. 

The coffee: You might have seen Lake Toba coffee at Starbucks Reserve, but its natural habitat is still the best place for a brew of Sumatra’s best coffee. The altitude, cool climate, and rich volcanic soil contribute to the coffee’s distinct flavour. The coffee here is cultivated on small plots, and you’ll see coffee farmers drying and sorting beans by the roadside as you explore the island.

The beauty: Lake Toba is a natural wonder and famous landmark of Indonesia, and the gigantic crater lake surrounded by steep mountains is magnificent. Throw in a few ornate traditional Batak villages, waterfalls and rice paddies, and you’ll get an idea of the unique beauty of Lake Toba.

Things to do on Samosir Island, Lake Toba

Lake Toba is all about the Batak villages, relaxing lakeside, breathtaking viewpoints, and revelling in Batak culture. Here are some ideas to help you plan your trip to Samosir Island.

Explore Authentic Batak Villages

Traditional Batak villages are scattered between the verdant landscape of Samosir, and visiting them is a highlight when travelling to Lake Toba. 

The distinct wooden Batak buildings with soaring curved roofs are called rumah bolon, and the designs are modelled on ancient Batak boats.  

These rumah bolon are decorated with intricate Batak symbols in red, black and white, symbolising blood, death and heaven. They have a lot in common with the Tongkonan architecture we’ve seen in Sulawesi’s Tana Toraja.

You can also see elaborate sarcophagi and graves in the Batak villages.

The King’s Stone Chair (Law & Order Batak Style)

The Bataks practised cannibalism and pagan rituals until the 1860s. The King’s Stone Chair in Ambarita village remains today, and this was where criminals would be trialled and dealt with accordingly – Law and Order Batak style. 

Criminals and traitors were held in a pen-like prison under one of the rumah bolon, and they could request any food they desired until the day of the trial. 

The king and his jury took seats on the stone chairs on judgement day for a public trial. If found guilty and the crime was severe enough, the offender was beheaded right there and then.

After the execution, the body was chopped up and distributed to everyone to eat! 

Grim backstory aside, Ambarita is a beautiful village with wonderful wooden buildings to admire.

Discover Samosir Island on Scooter

Rent a scooter from your guesthouse and ride along the lakeshore to see the staggering beauty of Lake Toba. Scooters go for about IDR 60,000 per day and should come with a full gas tank.

Don’t underestimate the size of Samosir, though! I thought I could go all around the island but only made it halfway to Pangururan before realising I should cut across the island to make it back to Tuktuk before dark.

Setting out from Tuktuk, head to Tomok before heading south along the road, hugging the shore. Along the way, you can stop at viewpoints offering stupendous views of the caldera, wave at grazing water buffaloes, stop for coffee at roadside warungs, see waterfalls and enjoy the serene beauty of Samosir.

The southern end of Samosir is gorgeous, with rice paddies and quaint villages. Following the road north to Pangururan, you’ll pass a few nice beaches where you can stop for a quick dip in the lake.

Have a late lunch at a Padang food joint in Pangururan, fill up your tank, and head across the island back to Tuktuk. You should be back in Tuktuk in time for an ice-cold (and well-deserved) sundowner.

Tip: Wear lightweight, long sleeves, or you’ll be lobster red and sore before midday.

Swim in Lake Toba

Can you say you’ve been to Lake Toba if you haven’t swum in it?
No, sorry, you can’t.
Most lakeside guesthouses have direct access to the lake, and taking a refreshing dip in Lake Toba is one of the simple joys you must do.
Most of the lakeshore is rocky, so don’t dive in!

Eat Batak Food

Eating well is very important on any trip. Fresh lake fish, pork and Andaliman pepper is king in the Batak kitchen. Andaliman (sometimes called Batak pepper) is a wild pepper with a citrusy taste that numbs your tongue, almost like Sichuan pepper used in Sichuan food in China. Exotic fruit like tamarillo, avocado, mangosteen and snakeskin fruit is also abundant.

My favourite place to eat in Tuktuk is Horas Shugary. You must try the traditional Batak Sak Sang- a slightly spicy, grilled pork belly dish. They also make an Olympic-medal-worthy pork rendang. Vegan and vegetarian options are available, too. (The eggplant curry and chapatti guacamole are excellent).
Horas Shugary has fantastic views over the lake, and the staff is as friendly as everyone else in Tuktuk.

For fresh Lake Toba fish, head over to Jenny’s Restaurant. They grill them beautifully and have live entertainment on some nights, making it an excellent place for dinner.

Watch the Sunset

If you’re lucky and the weather plays along, Lake Toba might treat you to a spectacular sunset. Situated almost on the equator, sunsets don’t last long. But when you see them, it’s something that you’ll cherish for a long time.

So, when the shadows get long, find a spot next to the lake, order something cold and cheers to another day in paradise.

Revel in Batak Nightlife

Man, do the Bataks know how to have a good time?!

Come sunset, you can almost feel the anticipation in the air as the people of Samosir start strumming their guitars and tuning their instruments. Pop in at any cafe, bar or restaurant at night and you’re likely to find a party waiting to happen.

Roy’s Pub is a good place to start (or end) your night, with Batak rock and western, 90s-noughties covers and cheap drinks. Anyone remember Roxette?

Laster Jony Guesthouse is another good place to enjoy a drink, dance or sing along with their nightly acoustic jam sessions.

RELAX!

The best thing to do in Lake Toba is to relax. Don’t plan to do too much.

Instead, just be and enjoy this stunning slice of paradise for what it is. There are so few places like Samosir island left, where you don’t have to be entertained and go sightseeing all day. Read a book. Swing in a hammock. Party all night and sleep all day. Go for a massage. Drink a mushroom shake. Take a hike.

Whatever you choose, we are sure that you’ll fall hard for Samosir Island, just like we did. Lake Toba’s magic can be found in those quiet moments when it’s just you and the lake and not a care in the world.

Enjoy Lake Toba. If you have any questions before visiting Samosir Island, drop us a message in the comments below, and we’ll try our best to help.