To get from Azerbaijan to Armenia you will have to transit through Georgia. You can’t go directly overland from Baku to Yerevan. While you can get a direct train between Baku and Tbilisi and then continue on to Yerevan on another direct train, it would be a shame to miss out on Sheki in Northwest Azerbaijan and Sighnaghi in the heart of Georgia’s wine region.
Continue reading to see how to reach Yerevan overland from Baku. Throw in two top stops along the way and we have a trip in itself! Our entire Caucasus trip roughly revolved around this journey between Baku and Yerevan.
Enjoy the ride.
First Things First: Can I Visit Armenia After Azerbaijan?
Yes, it is absolutely possible to visit Azerbaijan and Armenia during the same trip.
No, you cannot cross directly between these two neighbouring countries because of… erm… politics. You will have to go through Georgia. Direct overland travel between Baku and Yerevan hasn’t been possible for years, and it probably won’t change anytime soon.
No, there are not even non-stop flights between Azerbaijan and Armenia.
No, you will not be allowed into or granted a visa for Azerbaijan if there is proof that you had visited the Republic of Artsakh. Artsakh, also known as Nagorno-Karabakh is a breakaway republic and de facto independent country but internationally recognized as part of Azerbaijan. It is possible to enter Artsakh from Armenia, but keep in mind that you’ll be banned from EVER entering Azerbaijan again in the future.
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How to Get From Baku to Yerevan Overland
- Baku to Sheki – sleeper train – 10 Manat per person
- Sheki to Balakan (Azerbaijan border) – Marshrutka – 6 Manat per person
- Cross the border on foot
- Laghodeki (Georgia border) to Sighnaghi – Private taxi – 45 GEL
- Sighnaghi to Tbilisi – Marshrutka – 6 GEL per person
- Tbilisi to Yerevan – sleeper train – 55 GEL per person
Total: USD 88.50 for both of us.
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Baku to Sheki by Train
We bought our tickets the day before departure from the ticket counter at the railway station which is connected to 28 May metro station. If coming in from outside, look for the LC Waikiki or KFC sign. Enter LC Waikiki and walk straight through before taking the stairs down to the ticketing area.
Get a number from the machine and wait your turn. We wrote down Baku – Sheki with the date but this was not necessary as the clerk spoke good enough English. Once you had reserved your ticket you will need to go to another counter to pay, and then return to the first counter again to collect your ticket. It sounds complicated but it’s not.
The train departs from Baku every night at 22:40 and arrives in Sheki an eternity later
We are usually very excited to take sleeper trains, but this train was a ride straight from hell. A good time was had by no one!
The temperature was still hovering in the high 30s centigrade when we board the train after ten at night. We looked forward to a crispy air-conditioned compartment (is that so much to ask for?) but were in for a surprise as our bread tin of a train had none. To add fuel to the fire, none of the windows could open.
We rolled around in our own sweat all night long, sighing and praying and considering suicide. As I said, no one had a good time. Sheki appeared like the proverbial oasis in the desert the next morning. Adventure is only adventure in hindsight.
We talked to other travellers who took the marshrutka from Baku during the day, which sounds like a much better option. If you are a masochist or into self-torture we recommend taking the train.
Sheki to Balakan by Marshrutka
After spending a night in splendid Sheki we were back on the road and headed toward Georgia. There is a marshrutka leaving for Balakan at 10:00 in the morning but to get a seat make sure you are there at least half an hour before.
The price to Balakan is 4 Manat, however, Balakan is still quite a distance from the actual border. Our driver told us that he will take us right to the border for 6 Manat in total, which we think is a pretty good and convenient deal.
Our marshrutka was packed by the time we left Sheki and some people couldn’t get on because there was no space, so
make sure you get there early and claim your seat.
The drive up to the border goes through a beautiful stretch of rural Azerbaijan and it gets greener and greener as you get closer to the border.
The border crossing was straightforward and without incident. One thing we learned: Border officials want to see your e-visa upon exit, so keep it until you leave Azerbaijan. Luckily I kept my printout and Jin had hers saved on her phone, so we were free to go.
Another traveller from our marshrutka didn’t have it and is still waiting at the border to exit he probably just got held up a bit.
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Crossing the Azerbaijan / Georgia border
We walked across a bridge dividing Georgia from Azerbaijan, Jin waved her Korean passport and was welcomed to the Republic of Georgia accompanied by angel song and a soft golden glow within seconds.
I was held back and questioned, a phone call had to be made and was left waiting for about half an hour, even though I don’t need a visa for Georgia. I guess they don’t get any South Africans coming through this way.
Laghodeki to Sighnaghi by Taxi
A few hundred meters after the border is a money exchange and a shop selling cold drinks (and wine) and snacks, as well as a few taxis. Instead of taking a taxi to the town of Laghodeki and transferring to a marshrutka and then again to another one to reach Sighnaghi, we decided to just get a taxi all the way.
At first, the taxi driver wanted 60 GEL to take us to Sighnaghi, but we managed to bring the price down to 45 GEL, at which point he just kept saying PETROL PROBLEM and would not go any lower. We sped towards Sighnaghi at a frightening speed in a Mercedes E class circa the mid-’90s.
We arrived in Sighnaghi wide-eyed and in need of a stiff drink in under an hour.
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Sighnaghi to Tbilisi by Marshrutka
We were not hungover when we got the marshrutka to Tbilisi. We had a fantastic time in the Kakheti wine region, but just to be clear, we were not hungover.
Anyway. Moving one.
Marshrutkas leave Sighnaghi at 09:00, 11:00, 13:00, 16:00 and 18:00 and reach Tbilisi after about 1.5 hours.
You will be dropped off at Samgori metro station in Tbilisi from where you’ll have to take the metro to Tbilisi Central Station which is at Station Square metro (red line) to buy your ticket and catch the sleeper train to Yerevan.
Take the escalators up to the ticket counters at Central Station on the 3rd floor. Take a number from the machine first and wait your turn. We bought 2 second-class tickets around 13:00 for departure the same night which would leave at 22:15.
How to Kill 8 Hours at Tbilisi Central Station
We arranged with Galo Hotel ( 13 Nikolai Gogol Street, phone:+995 557 503 905) just outside the train station to leave our bags there for the day and take a shower before boarding the train to Yerevan. Anna the manager is a bubbly woman and was very helpful and accommodating. We paid 5 GEL per person for this.
We found out later that there is also left luggage at the train station on platform one, which charges 10 GEL per piece of luggage per day. The deal at Galo beats this hands down as you get to use their facilities as well.
With the remaining time, we took the metro to Freedom Square, walked around and had dinner before going back to Galo Hotel to shower.
To get to Galo walk out of the station and keep walking straight until you reach the street. Don’t cross the street. Turn left. Walk straight on Nikolai Gogol Street for about 200 meters and cross the first street. Galo is the second door on the left.
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Top 10 Things to Do in Tbilisi
Tbilisi to Yerevan by Train
Sleeper train: 55 GEL per person. 9 hours
The Tbilisi – Yerevan train leaves Tbilisi every night at 22:15 in summer ( every second night in winter) and is a comfortable and atmospheric way to reach the capital of Armenia. The arrival time in Yerevan is 7:30 the next morning.
After departure, the provodnik (conductor) will come to the compartment to punch tickets and hand out bedding. Get comfy and get some sleep before reaching the border. The train reaches the border around 01:00 at which time the conductor will come and knock on your door to wake you for border formalities.
Immigration formalities are conducted in your compartment for passengers not needing a visa. Jin got to stay in the compartment while her passport was stamped to the sound of angel song while I was marched off the train and taken to a small office where I was asked a few questions before I got stamped in and allowed to board the train again. Having Azerbaijan stamps in our passports was no problem at all.
Some nationalities can get visas on arrival while others need to apply in advance. Check here whether you need a visa for Armenia. I got mine online and it’s a very straightforward process.
We woke up the next morning as the train pulled into Yerevan Station right on time after having a very comfortable sleep
Read More:
How to Spend 2 Days in Yerevan
Baku to Yerevan Overland Resources
Azerbaijan Railways
Armenian Railways
Azerbaijan E- visa
Armenia E-visa
Aaaaaaand that is how you travel overland from Baku to Yerevan. Do you want to travel the scenic route between Baku and Yerevan? Drop us a message if you have any further questions.