Travelling from Baku to Yerevan is a lesson in geography, history, and a fair bit of regional stubbornness. Because the border between Azerbaijan and Armenia has been closed for decades, you can’t just hop on a bus from one to the other. You have to take the long way around, and honestly, that’s where the magic is.
We originally took this trip in 2017, and our entire Caucasus itinerary centred around this Baku-Yerevan journey. A lot has changed since then, and this 2026 update brings you the most current info on how to travel by public transport between Azerbaijan and Armenia.
Our journey took us from the Caspian Sea, through the Silk Road history of Sheki, across the Georgian border into the vineyards of Sighnaghi, and finally into the shadow of Mt. Ararat in Yerevan.
In 2026, the logistics have changed. Trains are faster, apps have replaced ticket windows, and there’s a specific land border loophole you need to know. Here is exactly how to navigate the overland route from Baku to Yerevan without the headache.
⚠️ THE 2026 BORDER RULE: As of my latest update, the land borders into Azerbaijan remain closed for entry. This means you must fly into Baku. However, you can still exit Azerbaijan by land into Georgia at the Balakan/Lagodekhi crossing.
Overland travel between Azerbaijan and Georgia is only possible in one direction. You cannot enter Azerbaijan by land at this time.
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Can I Visit Armenia After Azerbaijan?
The short answer is: Yes, absolutely. You can visit both countries on the same trip, and thousands of travellers do it every year. However, there are a few Caucasus Rules you need to know.
1. You still can’t cross directly. Despite a historic peace agreement signed in August 2025, the land borders between Armenia and Azerbaijan remain closed for travellers. There are no direct buses, no trains, and no flights. To get from Baku to Yerevan, you must transit through a third country, which is why Georgia is the perfect middleman for this itinerary.
2. The “Artsakh” Rule has changed. In our original guide, we warned you about visiting the breakaway Republic of Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh) from the Armenian side.
- The 2026 reality: The Republic of Artsakh no longer exists. The region is now under full Azerbaijani control. You can no longer enter the area from Armenia.
- The Stamp Issue: Since the region is now internationally recognised and managed by Azerbaijan, the old illegal entry stamp issue from Armenia is mostly a thing of the past. However, if you have an old Artsakh stamp in an old passport from before 2023, you might still face questioning.
3. Will I be questioned at the border? If you have an Armenian stamp in your passport and you’re entering Azerbaijan (or vice versa), the border guards might ask you a few routine questions: “Why were you in Armenia? Where did you stay?” Be honest, stay calm, and don’t overthink it.
They see hundreds of tourists doing this every week. As long as you haven’t visited sensitive military zones or violated Azerbaijani territory in the past, you’ll be welcomed with a stamp and a Welcome to Azerbaijan.
Baku to Yerevan: The Overland Route at a Glance
If you are looking for a quick summary of the journey and what it will cost you in 2026, here is the breakdown. Note that prices are per person and based on current mid-range comfort (4-berth train compartments and private taxis where needed).
- Baku to Sheki: Night Train (Kupe/4-berth) — 13.50 AZN
- Sheki to Balakan: Marshrutka — 8 AZN
- Balakan to the Border: Taxi — 5 AZN
- Lagodekhi to Sighnaghi: Private Taxi — 55 GEL
- Sighnaghi to Tbilisi: Marshrutka — 12 GEL
- Tbilisi to Yerevan: Night Train (Kupe/4-berth) — 95 GEL
Total Cost (per person): Approx. $68 USD
How to Travel from Baku to Yerevan Overland:
A Step-by-Step Guide (2026)
We spent two days in Baku before our journey across the Caucasus to Yerevan started. We loved Baku, and it’s a great city to explore. Make sure you have enough time to enjoy it.
Baku to Sheki by Train
The Stats: Modern Fast Train | ~13 AZN per person | ~6 hours
If you read our original 2017 notes, you’ll know we described this journey as a ‘ride straight from hell.’ Back then, it was a 9-hour ordeal in a windowless, non-air-conditioned oven.
The 2026 Reality: I am happy (and slightly jealous) to report that the ‘torture machine’ has been retired. Azerbaijan Railways has introduced sleek, Swiss-built Stadler trains on the Baku–Sheki route. It is now one of the most comfortable ways to travel in the country.
How to Buy Tickets (The App vs. The Station)
While we highly recommend using the ADY Mobile App (it’s fast and supports international cards), you can still buy tickets in person if you want the authentic experience.
The Process: Take a number from the kiosk and wait for your turn. Most tellers now speak enough English to help you, but having your destination and date written down never hurts. You can pay with cash or card at the same window—the old pay at one, collect at another shuffle is mostly gone.
Where to go: Head to the Baku Railway Station at the 28 May Metro Station.
Finding the Kassa: Look for the modern ticketing hall (it’s much sleeker now, no longer hidden behind an LC Waikiki). Follow signs for Bilet Satışı or Kassa.
What to Expect on the New Baku-Sheki Night Train
The Schedule: The train typically departs Baku in the late evening (around 23:15) and arrives in Sheki at 05:45 AM.
The Comfort: These are Stadler trains, meaning they are fully air-conditioned and have power outlets at every seat/berth.
Classes: You can choose between Standard (seated), Standard+ (more legroom), and Kupe (the 4-berth sleeper). For this overnight leg, always go for the Kupe; it’s roughly 13-15 AZN ($8 USD), and you’ll actually get some sleep.
Duration: The trip now takes about 6 to 6.5 hours—down from the ‘eternity’ it used to take us.
Our Verdict: In 2017, we told you to take the marshrutka to avoid the train. In 2026, we’ve changed our minds. The train is now more comfortable, safer, and allows you to arrive in Sheki rested and ready to see the Khan’s Palace.
Sheki to Balakan by Marshrutka
The Stats: Minivan | 8-10 AZN | ~2 Hours
After spending a night in splendid Sheki, we were back on the road heading toward the Georgian border. We loved our stay at Ali Ancient House. If you want that perfect Sheki-style hospitality before leaving Azerbaijan, this is the place.
→ Read More: You Should Really See Sheki: A Guide to Azerbaijan’s Silk Road
From Sheki to the Georgian border, catch a shared minivan (Marshrutka) to Balakan.
Catching the Marshrutka: There is a marshrutka leaving for Balakan at 10:00 AM from the Sheki Avtovagzal (Bus Station). In 2026, the price is roughly 8 AZN.
Our original advice still stands: get there at least 30 minutes early. These vans are the primary way locals move between the mountain towns, and they pack out fast. If you miss the 10:00 AM, you might be waiting until 2:00 PM, which puts your arrival in Georgia quite late.
Our mashrutka from Sheki to Balakan was packed like a tin of sardines, and some were left behind as there was no more space. So get there early to get a seat.
The Door-to-Door Deal Balakan town is still about 12km away from the actual border gates. Our mashrukta driver offered to take those going to Georgia all the way to the Lagodekhi border for an extra 4AZN. It is a very convenient deal and saves you from hunting for a local taxi in Balakan.
Exiting Azerbaijan & Entering Georgia
The drive to the border goes through a beautiful, pale-green stretch of rural Azerbaijan. With only a few passengers left the mashrukta, we could actually enjoy the scenery.
The border crossing itself is usually straightforward, but 2026 has brought two strict rules:
- The E-Visa Check: Border officials will ask to see your Azerbaijan e-visa upon exit. Keep your printout or have the PDF ready on your phone. One traveller from our mashrutka did not have this, and
is still waiting at the border to exithe probably just got held up a bit. - Mandatory Georgia Insurance (NEW): As of January 1, 2026, you cannot enter Georgia without valid health and accident insurance (minimum 30,000 GEL coverage). They check this at the Lagodekhi land border. If you don’t have a digital or printed copy in English or Georgian, you could be fined 300 GEL on the spot.
Crossing the Azerbaijan / Georgia border
We walked across the bridge dividing Azerbaijan from Georgia, and the difference in the welcome was immediately apparent.
Jin simply waved her South Korean passport and was ushered into the Republic of Georgia within seconds. I’m fairly certain I heard a faint sound of angel song and saw a soft golden glow as she stepped across. Oh, the joys of travelling on the second-best passport in the world!
I, however, was held back. My South African passport apparently required a phone call, a bit of serious chin-stroking from the guards, and a forty-minute wait in the uncertainty zone. I suspect they don’t get many Saffas coming through this rural outpost.
Lagodekhi to Sighnaghi by Taxi
The Stats: Mercedes E-Class | 55–60 GEL | ~1 Hour
Once you clear the border, you’ll find a small shop selling snack and cold drinks (yes, also the wine) and a few taxis waiting to pounce.
Instead of playing the marshrutka shuffle which involves taking a taxi to Lagodekhi town, then a van to Tsnori, then another to Sighnaghi—we decided to throw money at the problem and hire a private taxi.
In 2017, we paid 45 GEL. In 2026, the opening bid will likely be 70 GEL, but you can usually settle on 55–60 GEL, depending on your bargaining skills. Our driver gave us the classic PETROL PROBLEM defense as his final offer, then proceeded to fly us toward Sighnaghi at a frightening speed in a Mercedes E-Class that looked like it had survived the fall of the Soviet Union.
We arrived in Sighnaghi wide-eyed, slightly windswept, and in desperate need of a stiff drink in under an hour fater leaving the border.
Where to stay: We checked into Tsminda Giorgi Apartment for two nights, and it was absolute perfection. The view over the Alazani Valley alone is worth the trip.
→ Read More: 7 Things to do in Sighnaghi: Georgia’s Wine Capital
Sighnaghi to Tbilisi by Marshrutka
The Stats: Minivan | 10–12 GEL | ~2 hours
We were definitely not hungover when we caught the marshrutka to Tbilisi. We had a fantastic time in the Kakheti wine region, but just to be clear for the record: not hungover.
Anyway. Moving on.
In 2026, the marshrutkas still leave from the main square in Sighnaghi at 09:00, 11:00, 13:00, 16:00, and 18:00. The price has ticked up to 10–12 GEL ($4–5 USD) per person. It’s a winding, beautiful two-hour drive that drops you at the Samgori Metro Station in Tbilisi.
From Samgori, hop on the Metro (Red Line) and head straight to Station Square (Vokzal). This is where you’ll handle your tickets and catch the sleeper to Armenia.
Once you arrive at Tbilisi Central Station, take the escalators up to the ticket counters on the 3rd floor. Even in 2026, the process is delightfully old-school: take a number from the machine and wait for your turn.
Buying Tickets for the Tbilisi-Yerevan Night Train
2026 Schedule Alert: The train times have changed since our first trip!
- Winter (Oct – mid-June): Departs at 20:20 (8:20 PM) on odd-numbered dates.
- Summer (mid-June – Sept): Departs at 22:15 (10:15 PM) every night.
Buying Tickets: We went to the station around 13:00 to buy our tickets for the same night. While you can buy tickets online via the South Caucasus Railway website, it’s notoriously buggy. Buying in person at the station is still the most reliable way. You’ll need your passport and about 95–110 GEL (~$35–40 USD) for a 2nd-class Kupe (4-berth compartment).
Our Tbilisi Layover Before the Night Train
If you follow our itinerary, you’ll arrive at Tbilisi Central Station around midday, but the train to Yerevan doesn’t pull out until the evening (20:20 in winter, 22:15 in summer). That gives you about 8 solid hours to enjoy the city without dragging your bags through the streets of Old Tbilisi.
The Old Faithful Luggage Hack: Back in 2017, we found a gem called Galo Hotel (now often listed as Gogoli Family Hotel at 13 Nikolai Gogol Street). We paid Anna, the bubbly manager, 5 GEL to stash our bags and use a shower before catching the train to Yeravan.
In 2026, Galo has become a bit more of a proper hotel, but they (and several other family-run guesthouses on Nikolai Gogol Street) often still honor the day-use request if they have a free room or a common shower. It’s always worth asking!
The Official Option (without a shower): There is a Left Luggage office on Platform 1 of the station. It’s open from 06:30 to 22:00 and costs 10 GEL per bag. It’s secure, easy, and right where you need to be to catch the train later.
Our 8-Hour Tbilisi Power Tour
We spent our layover taking the metro to Liberty Square, strolling around, and riding the funicular up to Mtatsminda Park for the best panoramic views of the city. After soaking in the skyline, we headed back down for a final Georgian feast and a few glasses of Saperavi before boarding the train.
Tbilisi is a city that deserves much more than a few hours, so we highly recommend pausing here for at least three days if your schedule allows. (we returned to Tbilisi after Armenia and stayed for five days)
→ Read More: Best Things to do in Tbilisi
The Sleeper Train to Yerevan
The Stats: Modern Sleeper | 95–110 GEL | ~10.5 hours
The Tbilisi–Yerevan train departs at 22:15 in summer (every night) and 20:20 in winter (every second night). It’s easily the most atmospheric way to enter Armenia.
Shortly after leaving Tbilisi, the provodnik (conductor) will come by to punch your tickets and hand out fresh bedding. My advice? Get your bed made and try to sleep immediately. The train reaches the border around midnight (summer) or 10:00 PM (winter), and you willbe woken up.
The Border Experience: Immigration formalities are conducted right in your compartment for visa-free passengers. Jin, with her South Korean passport, was greeted with a smile and a stamp to the sound of angel song without even leaving her bunk. I, however, was marched off the train to a small office for questioning. Must be that notorious South African passport of mine.
Having Azerbaijan stamps in my passports was no issue at all: they just asked a few routine questions before stamping me in and sending me back to the train.
Arriving in Yerevan: Final Steps
Waking up on the sleeper train as it rolls into Yerevan is a highlight of the trip, especially if you catch a glimpse of the sun rising over Mount Ararat on the left side of the carriage.
he train arrives at Yerevan Railway Station, a beautiful Soviet-era building located about 3km from the city center. Here is how to handle your arrival:
- Getting to your hotel: Once you step off the train, ignore the aggressive “freelance” taxi drivers inside the station. Instead, use the station’s free Wi-Fi to call a ride via the GG or Yandex Go apps. A ride to the city center should only cost you about 1,000–1,200 AMD (~$3 USD).
- The Metro Option: Sasuntsi Davit Metro Station is right next door. A single ride is only 100 AMD, and it will drop you right at Republic Square in under 10 minutes.
- Currency: There are ATMs and exchange booths inside the station if you need to grab some Armenian Dram (AMD) for your first coffee.
Where We Stayed: We spent three nights at Welcome Yerevan Apartments. They are located right in the heart of the city (near Republic Square), and having a kitchen and washing machine was a lifesaver after almost a week on the road.
Armenia’s capital is a city of pink volcanic tuff, outdoor cafés, and incredible resilience. We absolutely fell in love with the vibe here and suggest staying long enough to soak it all in.
→ Read More: Our 2-Day Yerevan Itinerary
Final Thoughts: Was it Worth the Effort?
At the end of the day, traveling overland from Baku to Yerevan is about so much more than just saving money on a flight. There is something undeniably old school and romantic about crossing a border on foot, hauling your bags over a bridge, and falling asleep in one country only to wake up in another.
Yes, it involves a few petrol problem taxi negotiations and the occasional Soviet-era questioning room, but that’s exactly where the best stories are found. We loved this trip so much that we’d do it again in a heartbeat (though perhaps with slightly less sweating on the trains this time after the modernisation of the Caucasus rail!)
Between the hospitality of Sheki, the hilltop charm of Sighnaghi, and the pink stone of Yerevan, this journey captured our hearts. And let’s be honest: we loved the wine just as much as we loved the adventure. If you’re looking for a trip that feels like a real discovery, the Caucasus is waiting for you. Grab a glass of Saperavi and start booking!
How I Shot This Guide
Every photograph in this article was taken with the exact same gear I carry on every journey. It is a setup refined over years on the road to keep travel light without compromising the final image.
- Camera: Sony A7 V
- Lens: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG DN Art
- Storage: SanDisk Extreme Portable SSD
- Software: Adobe Lightroom Classic
- My travel essential: Ray-Ban Wayfarer