Explore Kota Tua Jakarta on a Self-guided Walking Tour of Old Batavia

In 1619, under the command of Dutch governor-general Jan Pieterszoon Coen, Dutch forces razed Jayakarta to the ground, and Batavia was established in its place. The name Batavia was a nod to Batavi, an ancient Germanic tribe and an archaic term for the Netherlands. Batavia became the centre of power for the VOC (Dutch East India Company) in Asia.

Without delay, the Dutch set about transforming Batavia into their new homeland. They erected a city hall and a church and dug a network of canals, all bearing the distinctive Dutch architectural style. Warehouses sprang up along the harbour, where precious spices like nutmeg, mace, and cloves were traded. Batavia’s beauty soon earned the moniker Koningen van Oosten (Queen of the East) back in Holland.

After the VOC went bust in 1799, the Dutch government took control over Batavia, and the city went from company headquarters to the capital of a colony.

However, Batavia wouldn’t last forever. During World War II, the Japanese occupied the Dutch East Indies, marking the beginning of the end for Batavia as a European colonial city.

Following the Japanese occupation, Indonesian nationalists declared independence in 1945. When Indonesia achieved full sovereignty in 1949, Batavia was officially renamed Jakarta, drawing a curtain on more than three centuries of colonial rule.

The ships travelling between Batavia and Amsterdam stopped in Cape Town on their way, and eventually, the Dutch set up a base there, too. Not only did the Dutch settlers come, but the ships from Batavia also brought people (against their will – slaves) and their cultures from Indonesia, who settled at the southernmost point in Africa. So much of my language, culture, food and history are because of Batavia.

Without Batavia, my own existence would be very different.

Europeans, especially Dutch visitors, will no doubt find Kota Tua immensely interesting. Most of the tourists we saw in Kota Tua were Dutch, and young and old enjoyed visiting a part of their own history.

But even if you’re from a different part of the world, spending a few hours in this beautiful corner of Jakarta away from the usual traffic chaos is worthwhile.

It’s a great place to leisurely stroll around, check out a few museums, try some good food and soak in the faded tropical colonial elegance of Old Jakarta.

Between the historical sights, there’s good food, friendly people, and a few hidden gems to discover.

You might also discover that one of the biggest attractions in Jakarta Old Town is you yourself! Don’t be surprised if someone strikes up a chat and asks you to take a selfie with them.

Visitors who have been to Amsterdam may notice striking similarities between the Jakarta History Museum and the Dam Palace, upon which its design is based.

Stepping inside, you’ll be greeted by creaky wooden floors and timber beam ceilings. On display are an array of paraphernalia and historical artefacts from the 16th century, including maps, coins, portraits, furniture, and ceramics.

After seeing the interior, head out the back door to the dungeons where criminals and freedom fighters were locked up.

The Jakarta History Museum also goes by the Fatahillah Museum or Batavia Museum.

Wayang, or Javanese shadow puppetry, is a cornerstone of Indonesian culture and performing arts. It encompasses a wide spectrum of artistic elements, including acting, music, singing, drama, painting, sculpture, and symbolic representations.

The Wayang Museum has an extensive collection of Javanese shadow puppets and specimens from throughout Southeast Asia. 

Your visit might coincide with a puppet theatre or a gamelan performance if you’re lucky.

History fanatics might skip right past the shadow puppets to the backyard to see the grave of General Governor Jan Pieterszoon Coen, the founder of Batavia, who died of cholera in 1629.

Head upstairs to the Grand Salon and try to get a window table for a splendid view of Fatahillah Square. Adjacent to the Grand Salon, you’ll find the Winston Churchill Bar, which Newsweek International crowned the world’s best bar back in 1996.

The menu has many temptations, including refined Indonesian dishes, beautiful, strong cocktails, mocktails, and coffees.

Jin had the lychee ice tea, served with real lychees, and it was pretty damn good. I went with the Bir Pletok, a sweet traditional drink made of cinnamon, ginger, pandan, sappan wood and lemongrass.

Come at night, and you might just be lucky enough to see the jazz band which promises an unforgettable evening out.

Sampans could then travel up and down the Big Canal, carrying goods and passengers arriving on tall ships right into Batavia. Slaves and horses pulled larger vessels from the harbour up the canal to warehouses where they unloaded the cargo.

The street running along the canal was a prime location in Old Batavia, and the area quickly turned into the place to be and be seen in the city. A stroll along the canal takes you past former warehouses, mansions and offices. There are a few beautiful but dilapidated Art Deco buildings along the canal to admire.

Look out for the distinct red brick building, which stands out among the whitewashed facades of Kota Tua. Toko Merah (The Red Shop) dates from 1730 and was built as the residence for the governor-general of the Dutch East Indies.

A 15-minute walk north of the drawbridge along the Kali Besar takes you past more aged warehouses, shipyards, and skeletons from the Dutch East India Company (VOC) era until you reach Sunda Kelapa.

The ideal way to experience Sunda Kelapa is from the water, and a boatman will likely offer their services as you stroll along the port. 

We spotted a group of Indonesians with cameras at one of the entrances and walked over to say hello. They told us to wait, and about ten minutes later, someone unlocked the gate. The photographers stormed in, catching us off guard and leaving us behind. As soon as the guy spotted the two tourists, we were told we couldn’t enter.

Even after offering a bribe, the answer remained firm -NO!

The architect behind this station was Frans Ghijsels, widely recognized for pioneering modern architectural style in the Dutch East Indies. Ghijsels adhered to a design philosophy that valued simplicity as the most direct path to beauty, a principle brilliantly exemplified in the structure of Jakarta Kota Station.

Stepping inside the station building reveals the splendour of its Art Deco design and its striking barrel-vaulted roof. After seeing the building, pop into the convenience store for a cheap drink from the fridge while enjoying the crisp air conditioning.

There are two kinds of Padang restaurants. In the pesan style, the dishes are displayed in the window, and you simply point at what you’d like, and a waiter serves it onto your plate. Alternatively, the hidang style involves the waiter bringing various small plates to your table. You can then choose your favourites and pay only for what you’ve consumed. Don’t fret about hygiene; the plates are covered with plastic wrap.

For lunch, we hit up the popular Padang Merdeka restaurant for a memorable hiding-style meal. 

The waiter stacked over 20 plates on our table, presenting us with a mouthwatering dilemma of choices. We settled on chicken gulai, beef rendang, incredibly spicy baby squid, omelette, crispy fried kangkung (water spinach), and tender boiled cassava leaves.

A Padang meal is an exciting culinary adventure that is also light on the wallet. It offers an unforgettable taste of Indonesian cuisine and culture. Skipping this gastronomic adventure would be a regrettable miss, so dive in and try as many dishes as possible.

Although the building is largely vacant, there are a handful of food stalls inside.

Keep an eye out for the quirky, orange-coloured mailbox stationed outside, proudly bearing the Dutch words brievenbus (letterbox) and buslichting (collection).

A telltale sign of the passage of time is the empty space beneath the buslichting – it’s been quite a while since any mail got collected. #postcolonialproblems 🤦‍♂️

Don’t miss their collection of music cassettes on the ground floor – remember Michael Bolton, Roxette, and Boyz 2 Men? They’re all still thriving on the shelves at Kedai Seni Djakarte.

Be sure to sample the poffertjes (think mini Dutch pancakes), served with your choice of butter or ice cream. And, of course, the coffee here is simply superb.

And here, with the sweet taste of Dutch treats and the kick of Indonesian caffeine still in your system, is where our Kota Tua Jakarta comes to an end.

The red-tiled roofs, weathered facades, and canals are the perfect backdrop for a unique Jakarta experience. We hope you find a few quirky hidden gems while strolling through the colonial heritage of Kota Tua Jakarta
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