I have a theory, so hear me out. The famous movie Eat Pray Love had a fourth part that was never released. It was called RESET and was filmed in the spa town of Mariánské Lázně, Czech Republic.
In RESET, Julia Roberts finds herself in West Bohemia. The backdrop is beautiful, with Art Nouveau and Belle Époque architecture and dense woods on the hills. The light is just perfect!
Julia checks into a sanatorium-turned-spa hotel, bathes in mineral springs, and drinks carbonated spring water straight from the source. She takes early morning walks in the woods, enjoys mud packs, and inhales oxygen as part of her daily routine. She becomes the epitome of health and wellness, resetting herself completely. Julia never ages, and her skin becomes like porcelain.
Luckily, the director decided (at Julia’s request) to cut the last part. They believed people would flock to Mariánské Lázně in droves to take selfies at the famous movie set locations. They didn’t want overtourism to ruin this beautiful corner of Bohemia.
And so, beautiful Mariánské Lázně in the Czech Republic remains blissfully serene and off the radar to the hordes.
Thank you, Julia.
Theories aside, here are a few facts. We visited Mariánské Lázně (Marienbad) last December on our Bohemian road trip, and it was drop-dead gorgeous. It remains one of the best spa towns in Europe and is still elegant and low-key. There is a whiff of nostalgia and opulent grandeur in the breeze. Believe me, it’s a great place. And even a greater place to reset yourself.
So here is our guide to visiting (and resetting yourself in) Mariánské Lázně, Czech Republic. I’m sure Julia would approve.
Thank you to VisitCzechia and Karlovy Vary Region for inviting us to West Bohemia and Ensana Svoboda for hosting our stay in Marianske Lazne. As always, the love for a good sauna session and all opinions and recommendations are our own.
Please note: This post may contain affiliate links. This means I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you).
Quick Guide to Mariánské Lázně
When we went: We visited Mariánské Lázně on 26 December and stayed for one night. We think it’s a great winter destination (see below).
Where we stayed: The Ensana Svoboda and it was fantastic!
How long to stay: While the town is small and you can see the sights in a day, we recommend staying for at least 2-3 days. It’s a stunning town, and to truly unwind and enjoy the spas and spa treatments, one day is not enough. We wish we had stayed longer than just a night.
Getting there: Mariánské Lázně is 170 km west of Prague. We rented a car in Prague (Discover Cars has great rates) for ultimate freedom to explore the Bohemian countryside at our own pace. Nuremberg is 170 km away, Munich 280 km. Frankfurt, Berlin, and Vienna are under 450 km away.
The high-speed Západní Expres train runs between Prague Main Station and Mariánské Lázně twice a day (2.5 hours).
Getting around: Mariánské Lázně is best explored on foot.
Top tip: Pack your flip-flops for the pool and spa areas.
About Mariánské Lázně
Mariánské Lázně is a beautiful historical spa town in the Karlovy Vary region in West Bohemia. It boasts UNESCO status as one of the Great Spa Towns in Europe. The nearby spa towns of Karlovy Vary and Frantiskovy Lazne, combined with Mariánské Lázně make up the famous Czech Spa Triangle. Known as Marienbad in German, this town has been synonymous with wellness since its founding in the early 19th century.
Its story begins in the early 19th century when a local abbot discovered the area’s mineral springs. There are over 100 of these carbonated springs in the area, with over 40 in town. These are cold water springs (7–10 °C) rich in carbon dioxide. Word of the water’s healing properties swiftly spread, and Marienbad, the spa town, was born.
Marienbad’s Golden Age was at the beginning of the 20th century. Anyone who was anyone knew of Marienbad. Opulent colonnades, pavilions, and villas in the neoclassical, Art Nouveau, and Belle Époque styles were built, and Marienbad burgeoned into a thriving spa destination, drawing European glitterati to West Bohemia.
Goethe, Mark Twain, Chopin, Kaiser Franz Josef of Austria, and King Edward VII of England are just a few celebs of their days who came to Marienbad for spa shenanigans. It was a place to be and be seen.
Marienbad remained a popular getaway, even during the wars. After World War II, the Germans were expelled, Marienbad got a Czech name, and Czechoslovakia was off-limits to Westerners.
Under communist rule, Mariánské Lázně was state-owned, and the best workers got to spend their holidays here as a reward. Sadly, many buildings were neglected and became dilapidated until the Iron Curtain came down in 1989.
Today, Mariánské Lázně is as beautiful as during the golden days and open to anyone. Many still call it Marienbad.
Whatever you call it, Marianske Lazne is one of Czechia’s most beautiful and relaxing places. It’s my favourite place in Czech Republic.
Visiting Mariánské Lázně in Winter
We went to Mariánské Lázně in late December and had a wonderful time. Winter in this neck of the woods has its own unique charm, making it one of the best times to visit if you want to reset yourself.
We enjoyed chilly morning hikes in the woods, relaxing hot saunas and jacuzzi sessions, and the magical Christmas lights during our stay. The short days and long nights were perfect for self-reflection. After our winter trip to Marienbad, we felt rejuvenated and ready to face the new year.
Staying at a Spa Hotel is the ultimate staycation, with everything you need available under one roof, from meals to drinks and entertainment. Even if the weather turns cold, you can still have a great time inside. However, we recommend going out to explore the town’s beauty, especially during the winter season.
During our visit, it was cold but not freezing. I didn’t even wear my gloves. The days were short, with the sun rising at 8 a.m. and setting at 4 p.m. We were pleasantly surprised at how green everything was, even in the dead of winter.
Some attractions, such as the Singing Fountain and smaller springs, were closed during our visit. However, the Cross Colonnade remains open year-round, where you can find several of the town’s famous springs on tap.
Where We Stayed in Mariánské Lázně
If you’re planning a trip to Mariánské Lázně (yes, you are), we highly recommend staying at a spa hotel to get the whole Marienbad experience. The Ensana Health Spa Hotel group has seven fantabulous spa hotels in Mariánské Lázně, ranging from three to five stars, so there’s something for every taste and budget.
We stayed at the elegant three-star-rated Ensana Svoboda Spa Hotel and loved every minute of it. Our room was so spacious we could do an entire gymnastics floor routine if we wanted; we dined like Kaiser Ferdinand and had two fantastic health treatments.
Jolly good.
The best part of our stay was the spa and wellness centre. The large indoor pool and jacuzzi overlook the forest through floor-to-ceiling windows, and for those who prefer it hot, there is a steam room or 90°C sauna.
Best of all, your name doesn’t have to be Franz Josef to afford a stay at the Svoboda.
You can read about our experience in our Ensana Svoboda review.
Reset Yourself: A Guide to Reaching Nirvana in Mariánské Lázně in Just One Day
Now that you know about the town, it is time to kickstart this guide to resetting yourself in Mariánské Lázně. Follow this guide if you have one full day, and by the end of the day, you will undoubtedly feel refreshed and re-energized.
If you are lucky enough to have more than one day in Mariánské Lázně, you can repeat the routine daily and fully reset yourself.
This do-it-yourself guide is suitable for winter, but for summer, you will need to adjust the timings as the days are longer.
7:30 Take a Walk
Get up at 7:30 a.m. before the sun rises at 8 a.m. Wash your face, dress warmly, and head out for a morning walk in the woods. Few things are better than a walk in the woods on a chilly winter morning.
I suggest walking along the Konigs Wanderweg (The Royal Way). It’s an easy but stunning walk, about 1.6 km long and should take about an hour.
The walk starts at the Municipal Museum on Goethe Square. Say good morning to the Goethe statue and head up the street towards Hotel Esplanade on Karlovarska Street. You’ll see the trail path leading (location) up the hill and into the woods. It’s signposted in Czech, German, English and Russian.
The first landmark on your forest walk is the Friedrichstein rock formation, also known as Small Switzerland. The plaque on the rock commemorates the visit of Saxon King Friedrich, who came to do botanical research in 1834.
Continuing through the woods, you’ll come across a romantic-looking pavilion called the Shepherd’s Resting Place. A little farther, you’ll pass the final resting place of Abbot Clements of Teplá. Finally, you’ll arrive at Mescéry Lookout.
Mescéry Lookout is a wooden pavilion overlooking the Valley of Springs. It offers a fantastic view of Marienbad’s grand buildings and the forest beyond.
From here, the path leads back into town, and you’ll be back for breakfast within a few minutes.
With more than one day in town, you could do a different walk each day, such as the Goethe, King Edward’s or Metternich’s Trails. Check out these walking trails, cycle routes or cross-country ski routes on the official tourism website of Mariánské Lázně.
9:00 Breakfast
A breakfast buffet is something to look forward to when staying at a spa hotel in Mariánské Lázně.
Ours had a fantastic spread of cold cuts, cheeses, bread, bacon and eggs, cereals, yoghurt, pancakes, fruits and pastries, and everything else for the ultimate continental breakfast. Of course, there was a free flow of tea, coffee, and juice.
10:00 Morning Wellness Treatments
For over 200 years, people have been coming to Mariánské Lázně to enjoy the benefits of CO2-rich cold spring water for improving their health. But you don’t have to be suffering from any ailments to enjoy it yourself.
Visiting Mariánské Lázně is all about wellness, rejuvenation, and resetting yourself. The demands of modern life are well-known to us, and that’s why we need to reset ourselves occasionally.
At your spa hotel, qualified medical specialists are available to advise you on the perfect wellness routine. This could include drinking a prescribed dosage of spring water, a CO2 gas treatment, or a peat mud pack therapy, to name just a few.
At the Palladio, we enjoyed a Maria Gas treatment and a hydro jet therapy, which sent us on the highway to wellness.
The Maria Gas treatment involves getting into a life-sized plastic bag inflated with the famous Maria Gas (99.7% CO2), which is then tied up with just your arms and head sticking out. You’re left alone in your CO2 cocoon for 20 minutes while your skin absorbs the gas, which improves blood circulation and stimulates testosterone and oestradiol production, among other things.
We also enjoyed a very relaxing yet invigorating hydrojet massage, which lasted 20 minutes.
We really wish we had more time to try even more of the treatments available.
11:00 Snack Time – Eat a Spa Wafer
You won’t need lunch after that fantastic buffet breakfast, trust me. However, pop in for a spa wafer at Lazenske Oplatky, a shop across the Cross Colonnade.
These paper-thin wafers go for only 10 CZK and are a must-have experience in Mariánské Lázně. After your spa wafer, you’re ready to explore the springs and colonnades of Marienbad.
11:01 Sip Healing Waters in the Colonnades and Stroll Around Town
The Colonnade
One of the most beautiful sights in Mariánské Lázně is the neo-Baroque colonnade. This stunning iron structure was built in 1888 and is the heart of the town, running between the Cross Spring and the Singing Fountain, with the Karolina Spring a little further down. The colonnade also goes by Maxim Gorky Colonnade, commemorating the Russian writer’s visit to Marienbad.
At 180 metres long, it’s the longest colonnade in Czechia. The cast iron structure is adorned with beautiful ceiling frescoes by the Czech artist Josef Vyleťal, depicting man’s desire to fly.
Drop by the little shop inside the colonnade to purchase a spa cup. It is a necessary item for your spring water drinking experience and also makes for a great little souvenir that can easily fit in your pocket. A spa cup is an ingenious novelty, with the cup handle doubling as a straw, so you don’t even have to tilt the cup to drink.
Cross (Křížový) Spring
Křížový (Cross) Spring Pavillion is the centre of Mariánské Lázně’s Spa Zone, and here you’ll find several of the town’s most famous springs on tap.
Information detailing the benefits of each spring is displayed in several languages (including English). So take your little spa cup for a stroll and stop for a sip at each tap. A word of warning: some taste weird, and some have a laxative effect, so go slow.
Like the other colonnades and springs in Mariánské Lázně, entrance and drinking from the water fountains are free of charge.
Stroll Around Town
As you continue your stroll through Marienbad, head downhill and pass by the Singing Fountain until you reach Karolina Colonnade.
We suggest walking down Reitenbergerova Street, which boasts some of the most beautiful architecture in Marienbad. Our favourites are the Spolecensky dum Casino (home to the West Bohemian Symphony Orchestra) and the Ensana Nové Lázně Health Spa Hotel next door.
Once you reach the bottom of Reitenbergerova Street, pause for a quick snap with the statues of King Edward VII of England and Kaiser Franz Josef of Austria before returning to your hotel.
13:30 Spa Time
Visiting a spa town without actually going to the spa would just be ridonkeylous, wouldn’t it?
So now it’s time to jump into your swimming costume and robe and make a beeline for the spa. It is here that you’ll feel the reset button kicking in.
The spa at the Svoboda, where we stayed, had a nice jacuzzi and a large swimming pool, but the best was the sauna and steam room. You could easily spend a few hours relaxing and resetting in the soothing water or simply lounge around in your robe.
Read a book, take a nap, crack open a Czech beer – anything that you fancy AS LONG AS YOU REALX! That is what visiting Mariánské Lázně is all about.
16:30 See Mariánské Lázně in the Blue Hour
In winter, the sun sets around 4 pm in Mariánské Lázně. So before dinner, take a quick stroll down to the colonnade to see the buildings lit up and the Christmas lights on.
The colonnade was just a five-minute walk from our hotel, so it was a quick and easy excursion before dinner.
The blue hour, just after sunset before it gets completely dark, is the most beautiful time of night and the best time to take photos.
17:30 Dinner
Dinner service starts at 17:30, and most guests arrive as soon as it starts. A healthy dinner buffet fit for royalty is to be expected.
We had everything from meat and gravy with mash and smoked fish and Karlovy Vary dumplings to terrine and damn good (dare I say the best ever) beetroot salad, to mention just a few.
Your hotel might offer entertainment after dinner. Ours had live music, which the other guests enjoyed over a few beers and sing-alongs.
But I’ll leave the rest of your evening up to you. You must be tired of me telling you to do this, do that, and go there.
It was nice showing you around. We hope you enjoy Mariánské Lázně and Czechia as much as we did. If you have any questions, feel free to drop us a message in the comments below
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