We knew about wellness but didn’t quite understand it until our stay at the Spa Hotel Svoboda in Mariánské Lázně, Czech Republic.
After just one night at the Ensana Svoboda, we realised that wellness is a real thing and that a spa getaway is not only for German pensioners. Europeans have long known about the magic waters and wellness found in the spas of Mariánské Lázně (which many still call by its German name, Marienbad). It’s high time that the rest of us catch up with the Germans and go wallow in the magic of Mariánské Lázně.
We just loved our stay in Mariánské Lázně, and if you’re looking for a unique wellness getaway in Europe, we have a secret for you: Go to Mariánské Lázně in West Bohemia and stay at least a few days.
Our getaway to Mariánské Lázně stands out as the most relaxing experience we have had in Czechia. In our review of the Ensana Svoboda Spa Hotel, we hope to give you a little taste of what a spa hotel in the Czech Republic is like and inspire you to go and treat yourself the next time you need to recharge.
Go on – you deserve it.
Thank you to VisitCzechia for inviting us to West Bohemia and Ensana Svoboda for hosting our stay in Marianske Lazne. As always, all opinions and recommendations are our own.
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Our Stay in Mariánské Lázně
We visited Mariánské Lázně on Boxing Day, arriving in our rental car from Prague. It’s under 200 km from Prague, and the drive should take about two hours. But we made several stops along the way to ooh and aah at the spectacular Bohemian scenery (think castles, cute villages, dense woods) and stopped for a bite at a petrol station near Plzeň, adding an extra hour to our drive.
Arriving in Mariánské Lázně, we parked the car and checked in at Svoboda Spa Hotel, and before long, the UNESCO spa town started working her magic.
As it was our first stay in a spa hotel, we didn’t know what to expect besides pampering and mineral water pools. The Ensana Svoboda delivered in the above area – jolly good. But it also showered us with warm hospitality, hearty food, and a good dose of nostalgia for days when life was simple and easy. It showed us the importance of wellness. We felt happy just to be there.
Mariánské Lázně is a year-round destination, but winter has unique charms, which is why we visited in late December. We imagined spending our days in robes following a personalized spa and wellness routine or sweating in the sauna while it’s cold outside. The Svoboda gave us ample opportunities to live out these spa fantasies.
Beyond the hotel, we found beautiful walks in the woods while the architecture and parks in town were just gorgeous. The beauty of the town, the fabulous walking trails, the relaxed atmosphere, and the opulent spa hotels are why we love Mariánské Lázně and see ourselves returning for an extended stay in the future.
One day was just long enough to wet our feet. We can’t stress this enough – one night is not enough in Mariánské Lázně. Rushing through is an insult to everything Marienbad stands for. So, stay a few days (we can easily do a week) and experience true Czech wellness. You (and your skin, back, feet, blood pressure, mind and soul) can thank us later.
Ensana Svoboda Spa Hotel
We arrived at Svoboda 20 minutes behind schedule due to the many photo stops along the way. Check-in formalities were fast and friendly, and we were told to put down our bags and proceed to the wellness centre immediately to start our treatments (more on that later).
Svoboda (meaning freedom in Russian) dates from 1906 and was built in the neoclassic style. It is part of the Ensana Health Spa Hotel group and is everything you expect from a wellness resort in Bohemia. With its Habsburg-yellow facade and classic details, the elegant three-star Svoboda Hotel exudes old-world charm, just like the rest of Mariánské Lázně.
We quickly realised that the Svoboda would not be a regular hotel stay. From the time we arrived, it felt like home rather than a hotel. It’s the kind of place where you want to unpack your bags and linger.
Our room was located on the second floor, facing the road. There are 139 rooms in total, spread across four floors. While this might sound large, we enjoyed a quiet stay, and our room was very private. The spacious public spaces (dining room, lobby bar and spa area) never felt crowded.
We loved how the Svoboda felt intimate and personal despite its size. You just don’t get that anymore at large hotels.
The guest rooms and spa centre are located in the Svoboda, while the medical treatments take place in the Palladio, which is reached via the Margareta building. You’ll also find a fountain gurgling cold, natural mineral water from the Josef Spring in the hall between the Svoboda and the Palladio. Make sure to take a sip every time you go by to maximise your health and wellness routine.
One of the best features of the Svoboda is the large indoor swimming pool and hot tub, with floor-to-ceiling windows that look out to the woods. The hotel was a wonderful setting right in nature, and you feel that while relaxing in the pool or jacuzzi.
Excellent facilities, attentive staff, spaciousness and old-world nostalgia aside, the Svoboda has a perfect location. Walk five minutes down the road, and you’ll reach the Spa and Cross Colannades, where you can sip several of Marienbad’s mineral waters, while the woods behind the hotel have walking trails straight from a Grimm Brothers’ fairytale.
Our Room
They just don’t make hotels like the Svoboda anymore! Our room was unbelievably spacious, and we felt at home right from the start. The large wardrobes hint that guests come, unpack, and stay for quite a while. We wish we could have done that.
Upon entering our room (201), we had a landing area where we could hang our coats and take off our shoes, with the bedroom to the right and the bathroom to the left.
Ensana Svoboda is not a trendy, modern hotel – and that’s what we like about it. It feels like a relaxing visit to your grandma’s house in the woods, and we mean that in the best possible way. (Grandma is rich, but no one knows where the money came from, but it is definitely old money.) For us, the Svoboda felt like that place we all know of (and yearn for) where we could simply be. If you value space, comfort and nostalgia over hipster fads, you’ll love the Svoboda.
Furnishings focus on comfort rather than shifting design trends, yet we found it tasteful and, most importantly, functional. Our oversized bed was comfy, and we slept like logs. Like all the other hotels we stayed at in the Czech Republic and Austria, the double bed came with two single duvets.
The temperature in the hotel was perfect, and we were in t-shirts (when not in our robes).
The bathroom was indeed a room, unlike the cubicles of modern hotels. Ours had a shower/full-sized tub combo, a toilet and a sink. And between them, there is enough space to practice interpretive dance routines if you want.
Dining
We don’t usually eat at our hotel. But since we stayed on a half-board basis, we were more than happy to eat at the Svoboda. And man, did we eat!
Meals are served buffet-style in the dining room, called the Carlton. Like elsewhere in the Svoboda, the dining room feels like home – great food without being stuck up. It was wonderful to simply walk down to the dining room and eat without having to think about where to go or what to order. It’s perfect for a staycation where everything you need and want is under one roof.
Food is a big part of wellness, and you’ll eat well at the Svoboda, even if you’re gluten-intolerant, raw, and vegan all in one. Simply let the hotel know about your dietary needs when booking, and the kitchen will take care of it. We are normal people who eat everything, AND WE DID.
The dinner and breakfast spreads were outstanding, with a good variety of dishes, including some regional dishes from West Bohemia.
We loved the breakfast spread, which included many salamis, hams, cheeses, breads, eggs, yoghurt, cereals, pancakes, and fruit. A free flow of coffee, tea, and juice was also available.
Our dinner buffet felt like Christmas dinner at Grandma’s. There was soup and meat and gravy and mash and pâté and terrine and fish and veggies and a salad bar – the whole shebang. Waiters can get you a beer, wine or something stronger if that completes your idea of wellness.
Spa & Wellness
The town of Mariánské Lázně boasts more than 40 mineral springs containing natural carbon dioxide and rich in mineral salts. These springs have been a popular therapeutic resource for many years, attracting people from all over the world.
The spring water in Mariánské Lázně is commonly used for drinking cures and treatments, such as mineral baths, dry carbon baths, gas injections, and peat packs. These treatments are known to be effective in treating a wide range of ailments, such as arthritis, gout, hypertension, and kidney and urinary tract inflammations, as well as aiding in post-surgery recovery.
However, you don’t have to be suffering from any ailments to enjoy these treatments. You can opt for a relaxing hydro jet therapy or consult a spa doctor to prescribe a wellness plan as a health tonic. During a visit to the Palladio, we met with the spa doctor, who prescribed a 20-minute Maria Gas treatment and a hydro jet treatment.
The Maria Gas treatment involves getting into a life-sized plastic bag, which the spa doctor inflates with the famous therapeutic CO2. The bag is then tied around your stomach and covered with a blanket before you’re left alone for some quiet time while the gas works its magic.
Maria Gas contains 99.7% CO2 and is absorbed through your clothes into your skin. It improves blood circulation, accelerates wound healing, and stimulates testosterone and oestradiol production. And, of course, you get to lie down for 20 minutes and relax.
After the Maria Gas treatment, we headed to the hydro jet for a warm and soothing water massage. It was amazing how quickly we relaxed from just these two treatments. It felt as if all our worries and troubles had disappeared.
Back at the Svoboda, we made full use of the spa centre. We alternated between the hot whirlpool, swimming pool, steam room, and 90°C dry sauna and reached a state of complete relaxation without even thinking about it.
For a refreshing wellness shock, we recommend spending some time in the dry sauna, followed by an icy water bucket dump. Trust us – you’ve never felt so alive!
Wellness Beyond the Hotel
Ideally, your wellness goals in Mariánské Lázně include exploring the nature and culture of West Bohemia.
Over a hundred mineral springs are in the area, with about forty of them in the town. Walk five minutes into town to the Cross Colonnade, where you can admire the distinct Neo-Baroque structure with stunning ceiling frescoes.
Buy a small spa cup (handy and makes a great souvenir) from one of the shops in the collonade and head to the left-hand end. You’ll find faucets from the Karolina, Rudolph, Cross and Forest Springs, where you can fill your spa cup and sip away. Each spring has its distinct taste and unique health benefits. Wellness straight from the source!
Here is our guide to Mariánské Lázně, which shows you the best way to spend a day in town.
Aside from the colonnades and their springs, a stroll through Marienbad will take you past Neo-Baroque and Neo-Classical architecture fit for royalty, parks and ponds. Spot the statues of famous people who have enjoyed Mariánské Lázně as much as we did—Goethe, the King of England, the Emperor of Austria and the like.
The forested hills in and around town offer fantastic hiking. I took a refreshing sunrise hike along the Königs Wander Weg (Royal Walking Tour), which rewarded me with crisp, woodsy air, panoramic views and vitality only nature can provide.
Ensana Svoboda in Mariánské Lázně, Czech Republic:
The Verdict
We loved every minute of our stay at the Spa Hotel Svoboda. It was indulgent yet down to earth (just like us 😝 ). It has everything for an unforgettable holistic wellness getaway—from the medical procedures to the swimming pool and sauna to fantastic food and simply enjoying the quiet life.
What we liked most was the homely atmosphere and genuine hospitality without bells and whistles. Simply put, we experienced unfiltered wellness and an authentic Czech Spa town experience.
It’s not a fancy five-star hotel and doesn’t pretend to be. However, the facilities, especially the spa area, and the friendly service are on par with those of a five-star spa hotel. We felt we had an authentic and delightful spa hotel experience in Bohemia.
If you’re looking for unique experiences and genuine wellness (not just what you see in Instagram hashtags), the Svoboda is definitely worth a try. We love Mariánské Lázně and would love to return for a longer stay, and we think the Ensana Svoboda has a lot to do with that.
So there you have it. Now you know why the Ensana Spa Hotel Svoboda in Mariánské Lázně should be on your Czech Republic wishlist
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