Wild Coast Hike From Port St Johns to Coffee Bay

This is community based tourism at its best, and as you hike between these communities, you’ll get an authentic glimpse into South Africa, away from the glamorous wine tastings of Cape Town or the glossy magazine-worthy Kruger safaris.

I’ll probably repeat this over and over, but hiking the Wild Coast in the Eastern Cape is the best thing to do in South Africa. So people, cancel the Kruger. Postpone Cape Town. Forget about Durban. You’ll find the best travel experience in South Africa between the rolling hills, wave-bashed beaches and colourful villages of the Transkei.

Asanda’s big smile was the first thing I noticed when he came to fetch me at the airport in Mthatha. First impressions do say a lot, and Asanda was all good vibes.

We walked to the main road, where he flagged down a minibus taxi. We took it to the taxi rank in Mthatha, where we changed to another bound for PSJ. When we reached PSJ, I was already pleased with my choice to go with Asanda.

Asanda assigned me with his friend, Tom, who would be my guide for the hike. Tom was a very likeable guy, and I had a great experience.

Tom is a local from a village near PSJ, and he can walk these tracks and footpaths running along the Wild Coast in his sleep – BACKWARDS. Whether you’re looking for a scenic viewpoint, a shortcut, a shebeen or a spaza shop, Tom knows where to find the best one. 

Other than showing me the way, Tom taught me a few Xhosa words every day and told me about life in rural Transkei. He is a fun, kind, and ambitious young man, currently saving up to pay his sweetheart’s lobola (wedding dowry) of 17 cows. 

Throughout our hike, I could tell Tom is well known and respected in all the villages. Young and old would say hi and chat, while others shouted their hellos from across the valleys when they spotted Tom. 

I stayed in the glamping tent, which I loved. The canvas tent has a double bed, bedding, towels, and a power outlet. Showers and bathrooms are communal (try the shower for two).

Amapondo runs a tab system so you can pay for all your food and drink when you check out.

Fees were negotiated (no price was too high at this point), but Tom urged me to push on, and we could decide on a porter later. (Heartbreak Hill does things to people… I never asked about a porter again and carried all my belongings all the way to Coffee Bay). 

Next, we headed to Sicambeni village, Tom’s hometown. He went to pick up something from home; we dropped in at his brother’s spaza shop. We briefly stopped at Asanda’s house and shared a Black Label quart between the three of us, and then continued walking through rolling hills dotted with rondavels.

We crossed our first river, the uMngazi River, at the swanky uMngazi Hotel & Spa. I was very surprised to see something this posh out here in the middle of nowhere. All the staff was happy to see Tom, and after chit-chats and catching up, we crossed the river by motorboat. 

The stretch after the uMngazi River is OUT OF THIS WORLD. If I had to choose, I’d say this stretch is the most beautiful part of the Wild Coast hike. We walked from the uMngazi River for kilometres along the beach with no soul in sight. Just us, the waves, the wind blowing through the grass, and the cows grazing.

Tom called ahead for a boat to take us across the uMngazana River to the village of uMngazana, where we spent the first night. When the boat showed up, it was a tiny yellow toy rowing boat with the name No-Good painted on the side.

Nevertheless, it was good enough, and we crossed the river safely, dropped in at the spaza shop for a cold drink, and then made it to our homestay.

Staying in uMngazana

Daphne, our young hostess for the night, welcomed us with tea, bread and peanut butter. After our welcome tea, she asked whether I was fussy about food (vegetarian and allergies) and then started cooking dinner.

Daphne’s home has two rooms, a kitchen, a dining room and a bathroom. The shower has warm water from a gas water heater. The little house is almost on the beach, and you’ll fall asleep and wake up to the wonderful sound of crashing waves.

While Daphne worked on getting dinner ready, I walked down to the beach and then showered before dinner.

We had chicken, rice, gravy, spinach, pumpkin, and potato salad for dinner.

Day 2 of the Wild Coast trial is recognised by big cliffs, many hills and dense forest. Due to the many seaside cliffs that make walking along the coast difficult, the walk heads inland in the morning before meeting the beach again in the afternoon.

It’s a much easier walk than the previous day. There are a few ups and downs, but nothing to fear.

Before reaching Tsweleni Village, a hill provides a sweeping view of the Sinangwana river mouth with Mpande beach and the village behind it. Depending on the tide, you might have to wade through the estuary to reach Tsweleni.

The tide was out, so we could just take off our shoes and walk across. Tom said that our homestay for the night wasn’t that far away, so I finished the last stretch to Tsweleni in my flip-flops.

Tom helped to boil water in a kettle to fill the bucket shower. The tap on the bucket shower didn’t work, so the water dripped out slowly, making it a cold, challenging and disappointing shower experience. 

On the bright side, it has a beautiful setting overlooking the waves crashing below. The food was good, especially the Xhosa bread.

This homestay also has a massage service offering foot, back or whole-body massages. I went with the back and shoulder massage (R80 for 30 minutes), which was just what I needed after two days on the Wild Coast Hiking Trail (with an overpacked backpack).

At one point, in the middle of nowhere – just us and the cows and the hills – Tom said he was going to look for bananas and that I should wait there. I thought that was code for dropping the Browns at the Superbowl, but to my surprise, he returned with a massive bunch of bananas after some time.

After what felt like endless rolling hills, we reached the beach of the Hluleka Nature Reserve. The reserve has zebras and wildebeest, but they must have been sleeping when we arrived. Instead of spotting wildlife, we enjoyed walking along the beaches backed by coastal forests.

We took a long break on the fantastic beach and ate bananas Tom picked earlier and cookies I got from the spaza shop along the way. I went for a swim while Tom took a nap, and after an hour or so, we reluctantly started walking again. 

From Hluleka Beach, we headed inland and uphill for the last 4km until we reached Lucingweni Village. We were starved again when we got to Lucingweni, so the Tandabantu spaza was our first stop to get some cookies, chips and juice. 

We chomped down our welcoming tea of Xhosa bread with margarine and then hit the hay for a long, hard nap. I slept like the dead.

The sun was setting already when Tom came to wake me for dinner. Dinner was excellent, like everything else this gogo touches. We had chicken, rice, gravy, spinach, boiled potatoes, beans and beetroot salad.

After a nice hot bucket shower, I was straight back to my rondavel for more sleep. 

The long stretches of empty beach between the Mthakatye River and Mdumbi had some of the most magical moments for me during my 5-day wild coast hike.

While Tom and I kept our eyes peeled for cowry shells on the beach (good luck symbol), enormous dolphin pods surfed in the waves and whales fed with their tails splashing in and out of the water. It was a truly beautiful walk.

Before reaching Tshani Village, we had to wade knee-deep through the mouth of the Mdumbi River as the tide was coming in. After crossing the river, we walked along the pristine Mdumbi beach, where a fisherman offered us fresh seafood to buy.

The crayfish he had was frozen, and the fish would come in later in the day, so I ordered ten fresh oysters, and Tom gave him the address of our homestay for the night. Later, the oyster man came to the homestay and shucked my oysters, which we ate with lemon juice and Tabasco.

Warren then told me how he needed a break from the rat race in Cape Town and came here for a holiday. Years later, he is still here and happily married to Nolizwe. 

The couple is actively involved in the community, doing a daily school run to drop children off at school, among others. They have plans to develop Cool Bananas further, and by the looks of things, it will be a huge success. 

Warren and Noli treated us to a scrumptious dinner of wors (sausage), handmade chips and salad. They even had jelly and chocolate dessert, which caught us completely by surprise. 

Breakfast was another treat: cornflakes, real coffee, fruit, and tomato and cheese sandwiches. We didn’t even have space left when they offered eggs!

Coffee Bay appeared like the proverbial oasis in the desert before lunchtime. We were met by a group of sangomas (traditional healers) performing rituals as we walked into Coffee Bay. We said our mholos to the intriguing men and continued to hightail over the dazzling Coffee Bay beaches straight to Coffee Shack Backpackers. 

While I checked in and arranged to get my laundry done, Tom had a shower and changed into his city clothes. 

In the World Famous Babalaza (hangover) Bar of Coffee Shack, Tom and I enjoyed one last Black Label. I whipped his ass in a game of pool while we drank our beers, and just like that, our incredible Wild Coast adventure was over. 

After we had exchanged our enkosis, inkosi ikusikeleles and hamba khales, Tom walked off. 

I came to the Transkei looking for adventure and wild beaches. But I got so much more than that.

I learnt so much about my own country and what it means to be South African. Whether you live in the city and get everything done with fibre wifi and eat organic sandwiches, or live in a rondavel and walk 5km to buy a loaf of bread, the walk has shown me that we are all the same. We all have the same dreams, fears and needs -we are one. We are South Africa.

It’s true. The saying about walking a mile in someone else’s shoes.

Strong coffee and cold drinks are available all day and night, and everything you do or eat at Coffee Shack goes onto your tab, and you can simply settle the bill when you check out.

With excellent accommodation, food, facilities, cheap surf lessons, exciting day trips into the neighbouring communities, and mellow vibes, it’s easy to see why some people never leave.

Coffee Bay is one of the greatest small towns in South Africa, so plan to stay a few days to bask in its magic.

Are you happily single? Go walk the Wild Coast solo. In a fulfilling relationship? Congrats, take your loved one for a walk from Port St Johns to Coffee Bay.

You see, there is no excuse not to go for a nice long walk along South Africa’s Wild Coast.
Trust me on this one.