Bajawa in Flores. That’s my answer when someone asks about my favourite spot in Indonesia away from the beach. This small town in the mountains of Flores Island is undiluted magic, ticking off all the boxes for a perfect culture/nature destination.
There are traditional villages on the slopes of a volcano, hot springs waterfalls (yes, you heard me right – HOT SPRING WATERFALLS), stunning landscapes, crisp mountain air, friendly locals, a sprinkle of international tourists, and coffee that’s just amazing.
Here is our travel guide to Bajawa, the most magical place in Flores.
If I ever go crazy and decide to write a novel set in Indonesia (someone please intervene), the stage would be Bajawa. It’s everything you’d imagine Indonesia to be. Here is a brief synopsis:
Our hero, Yohannes, lives in a traditional village. He farms coffee and cacao and proudly rocks the traditional ikat sarongs, holding onto his roots. A good man of good values.
Mount Inierie looms omnipresent throughout the entire storyline. The volcano is practically a character in itself, observing but not judging what happens below.
In Bajawa town, we’ve got our antagonist, Wawan – the guy with a Nokia flip phone who smokes clove cigarettes like a chimney and cruises in an Avanza circa 2005.
And then, Anouk enters the scene – a gorgeous blonde from Holland on a backpacking trip through Flores. Anouk falls hard for Yohannes…and Wawan.
The love triangle drama unfolds against the breathtaking Bajawa backdrop. Anouk, torn between choices, starts snorting coffee, gets lost in jungles, and dips into hot spring rivers at dawn. Eventually, love drives her completely bonkers.
As the suspense tightens, Inerie decides it’s had enough and blows its top. Smoke, ash and lava everywhere! Now, the big question: Will Anouk run to the village or town?
Before I get too carried away with my imaginary novel, let me show you what to do in Bajawa, Flores. Instead of a novel, I hope a travel blog with many photos of Bajawa will suffice.
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Quick Guide to Bajawa, Flores
Where we stayed in Bajawa: We spent three nights at Cinnamon Guesthouse, a long-time favourite with tourists. Private en-suite rooms or rooms with shared bathrooms are available. The hot water and fantastic pancakes and coffee for breakfast must have something to do with its popularity.
Getting there: Bajawa has a small airport, with daily flights on Wings Air to Labuan Bajo and Kupang. Most tourists stop in Bajawa while travelling overland from Labuan Bajo to Ende or Maumere.
Overland, the most comfortable way of reaching Bajawa is Gunung Mas, a shared minibus service with individual seats. Gunung Mas runs between Ruteng and Bajawa twice daily (5 hours – 120K IDR) and twice daily between Bajawa to Ende (5 hours – 200K IDR)
Going to Riung, we got a shared taxi (100K IDR per seat – 2 hours).
Ask your guest house a day in advance to help make reservations for you.
Getting around: All the amazing places to see in Bajawa are outside town, so you’ll need wheels. Rent a scooter from your hotel, or ask them to arrange an ojek (motorbike taxi) or a car with a driver.
How much time: We spent three nights and two full days in Bajawa, which was about right. Add another day if you’re planning to summit Innerie. I could easily stay in Bajawa for a week and really explore the villages and landscapes on the scooter.
Top tip: Bajawa is in the highlands of Flores and gets CHILLY. Pack warm clothes and book accommodation with hot water.
Our Experience in Bajawa
The guesthouses in Bajawa are all clustered together in a small enclave outside the town itself. You’ll find all the tourist accommodations, a few restaurants, a laundry and an AlphaMart convenience store on one street. It’s a convenient setup, meaning you don’t have to venture into town.
We stayed in a comfy and affordable private en-suite room at Cinnamon Guesthouse. The place was clean, had hot water, and served amazing banana pancakes with coffee from the owner’s garden. We rented a 125 CC scooter for 70K IDR per day.
Exploring Bajawa, I rode the scooter with Jin, navigating with Google Maps on her phone from behind. The rides were nothing short of amazing, treating us to breathtaking scenery at every turn. We love Bajawa for its incredible landscapes and mix of nature and culture.
During our two-day stay in Bajawa, we explored the stunning landscapes and hot springs to the north on the first day and visited the villages and another hot spring to the south on the second day.
On the first day, we hit up Ogi Waterfall and Mangeruda Hot Spring. En route to the hot springs, Google Maps led us down a road that progressively deteriorated into a muddy track. Instead of turning around, I pushed on until we found ourselves dreadfully stuck, wheels caked in mud, and I couldn’t drive any further.
Eventually, we abandoned the bike and walked to the nearest village to ask for help. A man who spoke no English came to our rescue, and after a very muddy hour, we were dug out and back on the road again. Bless his kind soul. Stick to the main roads, and you’ll be fine. For real adventures (in hindsight), take those obscure back roads 😂 ).
Day two had us exploring the Ngada villages and the Malanage hot spring before sunset drinks with a view of Mount Inerie.
Cinnamon Guesthouse helped us book two seats in a shared taxi to Riung, and we left Bajawa around 11 am on the third day.
Check prices and availability at Cinamon Guesthouse
Things to Do in Bajawa
Bajawa Hot Springs
Bajawa’s natural magic is found in its hot springs nestled in the forest around town.
Sitting snug in a geothermal field surrounded by three active volcanoes, Bajawa boasts numerous natural hot springs with temperatures ranging from boiling hot to a more comfortable 40 degrees Celsius.
There’s no better place to be in chilly Bajawa than in one of its incredible natural hot springs. Cool highland air and steamy hot springs create an unbeatable experience. Make sure to visit at least one hot spring while you’re in Bajawa.
We visited the two best hot springs in Bajawa, Mangeruda and Malanage. They are the best because they’re easily accessible, have some facilities and the temperatures won’t burn you.
Mangeruda is located north of Bajawa near the airport, while Malanage is to the south near the famous Ngada villages. Combining Malanage with Bena Village is a classic Bajawa combo, while Mageruda is a bit off the touristy circuit.
We think Mageruda is more relaxing (it’s also hotter), while Malangane is definitely more beautiful as it’s completely natural. We liked them both, and we recommend you visit both and decide which is better for you.
Soak in the Mangeruda Hot Spring
Mangeruda Hot Spring, also known as Soa Hot Spring (Air Panas Soa in Bahasa Indonesia), sits close to Soa village, roughly 25 km from Bajawa, just past the airport [location].
It’s nestled within what seems like a rundown resort, with cement paths leading to derelict changing rooms and the hot springs. But don’t let that description fool you – there’s a lush vibe with plenty of trees and various beautiful bathing spots around.
The source of the hot water, clocking in at over 40 degrees Celsius, flows up from a round eye. It then flows along a stream, cooling off a bit before cascading over a small waterfall and merging with another stream. You can bathe in all of these spots.
The hot waterfall was by far the best spot for us. Here, you can sit under the waterfall for an invigorating natural massage before venturing into the stream, where the hot and cold water mix to find your ideal temperature.
Apart from the natural spring, hot river, and waterfall, the water is also directed into a large pool. This massive hot pool is a serene spot, perfect for those seeking a lazy float and soak without a current.
Mangeruda mainly draws in locals. During our weekday visit, there were just a few Indonesians around. Weekends might see a bit more activity, at least by Bajawa’s standards.
A few small warungs sell snacks, instant noodles, boiled eggs, soft drinks and cold beers at the entrance.
Entrance fee: 20K IDR
Simmer & Splash in Malanage Hot Spring
Those who prefer their hot spring to be 100% natural and unspoilt will love Malanage. Its stunning jungle location near Bena Village makes it the favourite hot spring in Bajawa for most.
Unlike Mangeruda, Malanage (say it in four syllables Ma-La Na-Ge) has a wild feel. There is a basic changing room, a toilet and a few bamboo seating platforms under the trees beside the hot river. You can also get basic food, soft drinks, tea and coffee.
Malanage Hot Spring [location] is best described as a hot river. The scenic (and very relaxing )spot sits at the confluence of a hot and cold river where it gushes over a small rapid. The hot side is scalding, so be careful, while the cold one is icy. Dipping into Malanage is all about moving around in the river below the rapid, where the hot and cold water mix to find your perfect temperature.
It’s invigorating, going from almost too hot to definitely too cold. You’ll know what I’m talking about when you get there.
The swimming area below the cascade is small, with quite a strong current. Due to the small size and strong current, you might have to wait your turn to bathe in the magical hot fall. When we came, we had to wait our turn for the sweet spot, so we had lunch (fish, rice and noodles) first.
After lunch, we had the hot spot for ourselves for about 40 minutes before the next group arrived. We made way for the new arrivals and went downstream to wallow in the shallow, lukewarm water.
We loved Malanage’s natural jungle setting—it is just fantastic. However, Mangeruda has many more swimming spots spread over a larger area. We spoke to a family who said the Mangeruda water was too hot for them.
So visit both, and decide for yourself which is your favourite Bajawa hot spring.
Entrance fee: 20K IDR
Take a Walk to Ogi Waterfall
This waterfall, about 30 metres high, just north of Bajawa, makes a nice addition to Mangeruda Hot Spring. Most of the attractions in Bajawa are to the south, so you might as well stop for a snap while you’re in the area.
Google Maps [location] gets you close enough to the falls. I rode our scooter as far as I could before it got too muddy and then walked the last few hundred metres to the fall. It’s a beautiful walk between rice paddies and jungle until you get to the fall.
We could hear the roaring water before we even reached the fall, which made our walk build up in anticipation.
Entrance fee: Free
Bajawa Traditional Villages
Bajawa’s cultural magic lies in the exceptional traditional villages around town. Here, people still practice their indigenous animist religion in coexistence with the Catholic faith introduced by Portuguese missionaries over a century ago. It is quite fascinating.
The villages are characterized by rows of high-roofed huts made of thatch and bamboo, along with megalithic stone altars that connect with the supernatural realm and communicate with ancestors through animal sacrifice.
Flat stone structures called lenggi are used as a court where different village clans settle their legal disputes. Totem poles and ceremonial houses are decorated with intricate carvings and the blood of sacrificial animals. It reminded me somewhat of the Batak villages I saw at Lake Toba in Sumatra.
Most houses display water buffalo skulls, horns, and pig jaws to commemorate the sacrifices made by the household during various ceremonies.
The Bajawa villages are also great spots to pick up an ikat cloth straight from the source. We saw a few really unique ikats woven from bark fibre and dyed with natural dyes, which would make beautiful souvenirs. In most villages, you’ll see women working their looms and selling their handiwork.
Touristy Bena village is the most famous one which everyone visits. If you have time for only one, make it Bena. We suggest visiting one or two other villages on the way to Bena, but save the best for last. After seeing Bena, the other villages might be underwhelming.
Visit Luba Village
Luba Village sits directly under Mount Inerie, with houses built in groups around open squares. The village is spread over several levels, consisting of stone terraces. You’ll find several graves marked with crosses on each terrace.
It’s not nearly as touristy as Bena village just a few hundred meters down the road.
Like most other villages in Bajawa, the houses in Luba stand empty or serve ceremonial purposes only, with villagers now living in brick houses nearby.
We found Luba a friendly place, with lots of smiles from the woman selling their ikat. The houses feature intricate decorative carvings; we especially liked the white horse-like figures.
[Location]
Entrance fee: Donation (we gave 20K IDR)
Meet the Ikat Weavers at Bena Village
Bena Village is a stunning megalithic village located at the foot of the Inerie Volcano. The elders believe that the Yeta god, who lives on the mountain, protects the village. It is the most beautiful and famous village among visitors to Bajawa.
About 45 houses from nine different clans are arranged in a U-shaped formation against a slight slope. You’ll enter the village from the bottom, pay the entrance fee and then walk up to explore the village. At the top end of the village is a shrine of the Virgin Mary with a sweeping view down over the valleys and the Savu Sea in the distance.
The small structures in the yard, between the houses, are not storage for grain as I thought, but actually shrines representing the clan’s ancestors. The male shrines (ngadhu) resemble thatched umbrellas, while the female shrines (bhaga) resemble miniature houses.
I found the megalithic formations and altars in the centre of the village the most fascinating. The lichens growing on the rocks were just incredible. These stone structures, one for each clan, serve as a connection to their ancestors and to connect to the supernatural realm.
While Bena is indeed touristy (by Flores standards), we found it incredibly beautiful. It hasn’t turned into a human zoo yet.
[Location]
Entrance Fee: 25K IDR
Have a Sundowner at
Manulalu Panorama / Heaven’s Door
Inerie is derived from Ine and Rie, meaning mother and beautiful, respectively, in the local language. Bajawa’s Beautiful Mother is an active volcano that last erupted in 1970 and stands 2,245 meters above sea level.
After circumnavigating and skirting the volcano while sightseeing, it’s now time to sit back and admire its beauty, preferably with a drink of your choice in hand. Try one of their signature arak cocktails to end the day -or start the evening -with a bang.
And for that, there is no better place than Heaven’s Door [location].
The stunning Heaven’s Door Bar and Restaurant at Panorama Manulalu is what I picture Hotel California to be. It’s that kind of place where YOU DON’T WANT TO LEAVE even if you could.
Strong Mexican vibes greet you as you enter, and if you think the entrance is awesome, wait until you reach the bar and restaurant!
Colourful round mandalas of stained glass windows lure you to the terrace, where stupendous views of Mount Inerie and the Bajawa countryside await. Of course, Inerie steals the limelight (attention whore), but there are also views of modern and traditional villages hidden in the jungle below.
If you want to wake up to this view, the fantastic Manulalu B&B across the road is your place. If we ever visit Bajawa again, we’ll stay here.
Drink Kopi Bajawa
You have not had proper coffee until you’ve tasted the exquisite coffee from Bajawa Flores. This coffee is unlike any other, with a unique blend of sweet, chocolatey, and floral flavours, complemented by a subtle tobacco aroma that lingers on your taste buds.
It’s no surprise that these Bajawa beans are in high demand both in Indonesia and abroad. But with limited production getting your hands on a legit Kopi Bajawa outside Indonesia can be a real challenge. So do overindulge in the good stuff while you’re in Flores.
The coffee is grown at high altitudes on the slopes of Inerie. Here, Arabica coffee beans are cultivated under the shade of trees on hillsides and plateaus at elevations ranging from 1,200 to 1,800 meters above sea level.
Bajawa coffee plants are grown without fertilizers or pesticides, and the beans are carefully hand-picked and wet-processed. So not only is this coffee delicious, but it’s also sustainably produced. As a coffee lover, you simply must try this one-of-a-kind brew.
During our visit in July, we saw coffee beans drying all around town and in the villages. Kopi Bajawa is by far my favourite coffee, and I had it every chance I could.
You should, too.
Go to Church
Flores is predominantly Catholic, as you’ll see by the many churches scattered around the island. I knew that Indonesia was the most populous Islamic country in the world, but I only recently found out that it’s also the fourth-largest Christian country by population in Asia (after the Philippines, China and India).
Driving the scooter around Bajawa, you’ll see many churches and shrines of the Virgin Mary. If you’re interested in this kind of thing, go knock on the door and someone might show you around.
In Bajawa, near our guest house, I checked out the Mater Boni Consili Catholic Church [location]. The door was ajar, so I went in and looked around. The ceiling is painted in blue sky with Jesus and the apostles. I sat in one of the pews and enjoyed the strangely serene atmosphere.
Where to Eat in Bajawa
There are a few restaurants and cafes along the main drag with the guesthouses. We had our dinners there, and lunch was somewhere out of town as we explored. Most of the restaurants offer the same fare.
Warung Makan Lamongan: Our favourite place to eat in Bajawa. This small warung right next to Cinamon Guest House is popular with drivers and guides, which is always. a good sign. The best nasi goreng we’ve ever had (and we’ve had a few) comes from this little joint. As long as this is up, it remains our top choice. The Soto Ayam and Bakso were also great on those chilly nights.
The Nameless Bakery: Places with excellent food need no names – prove me wrong. The point in case is the little nameless bakery next to Warung Makan Lamongan. They have amaaaazing kuih (chewy Indonesian dessert) in different flavours and colours. At IDR 1000 a pop, you should really try them all.
Lucas: One of the most popular places with Western tourists, Lucas has a bit of everything on the menu. The place was packed with Dutch and French when we came. The pork satays with peanut sauce and the fried potato chips were very good. The nasi goreng was meh. We were too hungry to take photos of the food – sometimes we are normal 😝
The Flores Files
Looking for more Flores travel information? Check out our other posts
And that, people, is all you need to know about Bajawa in Flores. If you’re still unsure what to do, drop us a question in the comments below, and we’ll try our best to help
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