Saying Flores is magical is quite the understatement. This long, mountainous island has dragons on one side and crater lakes that change colours on the other. And between them, you’ll find some of the best snorkelling and diving on earth, age-old traditional villages, hot springs, volcanoes and some of the best coffee you’ll ever have. Our Flores, Indonesia itinerary shows you all the highlights (and a few secret spots) for your backpacking trip across the island.
Last July, we travelled across Flores, our seventh trip to Indonesia.
Yes, we love Indonesia.
Flores completely blew us away! It’s like the best of the entire country condensed into one island. We loved the adventure, and with some of the most incredible sights in Indonesia, it’s one epic travel experience we will never forget.
The usual backpacking route is the Trans-Flores Highway, between Labuan Bajo in the west and Maumere in the east. While Labuan Bajo is roughly 250 km from Maumere as the crow flies, the distance by road is just over 500 km. The Trans-Flores Highway is in good condition; however, going is slow due to the mountainous terrain – you’ll rarely see a stretch of road that’s straight or flat for more than 100 metres.
So don’t rush yourself. Ten days is the bare minimum you should plan for your Flores itinerary. Don’t believe anyone saying you can have a good time backpacking Flores in a week. We spent 12 days in Flores, travelling between Labuan Bajo and Ende (which is not even the end of the Trans Flores).
*Scuse us for annoyingly having to say Flores Indonesia itinerary, but there is also a Flores in Guatemala. If you’re dreaming of Mayan ruins, tortillas or learning Spanish, you’re in the wrong place 😝
Please note: This post may contain affiliate links. This means I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you). As an Amazon Associate, I earn from qualifying purchases. Learn more.
Places Visited on our Flores, Indonesia Itinerary
Most stick to the popular Labuan Bajo-Ruteng-Bajawa-Kelimutu-Maumere route. For our Flores trip, we took a wonderful detour to Riung and the 17 Islands Marine Park and flew out from Ende as flights were much cheaper from there compared to Maumere. In hindsight, we should’ve added a few days and included Maumere.
Once we reached Moni, we felt a definite shift as Indonesia faded into Melanesia. It felt like we’d crossed a frontier to another time and place. With an extra few days, we’d include Maumere, Larantuka and Lewoleba to see unique cultures and landscapes of eastern Flores. This is definitely a reason to return to Flores – we have unfinished business.
Below is a brief overview of our Flores trip.
- Labuan Bajo – Komodo dragons, island hopping, pink beaches, snorkelling and diving. It’s a bucket list destination for a reason!
- Ruteng – More than just a stopover. The spider web rice fields and Hobbit Cave are worth checking out.
- Bajawa – Hot springs, Ngada and Luba villages, and fantastic coffee.
- Riung – Island hopping in the 17 Islands Marine Park.
- Moni – The tri-coloured Kelimutu lakes
Flores Overland Itinerary Route & Map
- Day 0: Arrive in Labuan Bajo. There are daily direct flights to Komodo Airport from Bali and Jakarta. Stay in Labuan Bajo at La Cecile.
- Day 1: Arrange an island-hopping trip to Komodo National Park. Have lunch at Happy Banana, relax by the pool and catch a sunset drink at Paradise Bar. Dinner at the fish market. Stay at La Cecille
- Day 2: Explore Komodo. We decided on an overnight trip (it was amazing). Snorkelling at Kanawa Island, Manta Point, and Taka Makassar. Sleep on the boat.
- Day 3: Morning hike up Padar Island, swimming and snorkelling at Pink Beach and spotting Komodo dragons on Rinca Island. Return to Labuan Bajo in the afternoon. Massage at Wae Molas and hit up Fellas for the best pizza in town. Stay at Golo Hilltop or back to La Cecile.
- Day 4: Morning departure to Ruteng (4 hours). Arrive in Ruteng around lunch. Visit the Liang Bua Cave and Hobbit Museum. Stay at Kopa Hill Top.
- Day 5: Visit the spiderweb rice fields in the morning. Catch your transportation to Bajawa, departing around lunchtime. Arrive in Bajawa after 4-5 hours and check into Cinnamon Guesthouse.
- Day 6: Rent a scooter and head north of Bajawa. Hit the back roads to Oggi Waterfall and go soak in the Mangeruda Hotsprings for an hour or two. Stay at Cinnamon Guesthouse.
- Day 7: Scooter south to Luba and Bena villages, and then another fantastic hot spring awaits at Malanage. Enjoy a sundowner with a view of the Inerie Volcano at Heaven’s Door. Stay at Cinnamon Guesthouse.
- Day 8: Morning transport to Riung on the north coast of Flores. Check in at Nirvana Bungalows and arrange a boat trip for the next day.
- Day 9: Full-day island hopping and snorkelling in the 17 Islands Marine Park. Dinner at Pato Resto. Stay at Nirvana Bungalows.
- Day 10: Early morning shared car to Raworeke Bus Terminal in Ende (4-5 hours). Catch a bus to Moni (1 hour). Stay at Santiago Bed & Breakfast. Eat at Mopis or Good Moni.
- Day 11: Head up to Kelimutu in the morning to see the tri-coloured lakes. Then, explore the villages and rice terraces along the Moni-Ende road. Stay at Santiago Bed and Breakfast.
- Day 12: Transport to H. Hasan Aroeboesman Airport in Ende. Daily flights to Kupang and Labuan Bajo with connections from there. Alternatively, continue east to Maumere.
When is the Best Time to Travel Across Flores?
“So when is the best time to backpack Flores?” you ask.
Let me take out my crystal ball 😂
Backpacking and overland travel in Flores is possible year-round. The people living in Flores go about their lives happily just as they have for thousands of years, come rain or shine. However, be aware of the seasons and how they might affect your Flores trip.
Flores experiences a rainy season from November to March and a dry season from April to September. This weather pattern becomes more apparent as you move towards the east, with the rainy season being wetter and the dry season drier. The sea temperature remains warm throughout the year, making it perfect for swimming.
I have been to Alor, at the very eastern tip of Flores, in February and Labuan Bajo on another occasion, also in February. For this itinerary, we travelled across Flores at the end of July, so we can compare apples to apples here.
Rainy Season (November to March)
December to February is statistically the wettest, with rain expected every day. I remember Alor in the east for intense rainfall every day, less so in Labuan. Rain tends to come down in sudden downpours that last an hour or two before clearing up. It’s unusual to have rain lasting the entire day.
It is also the hottest time of the year, and dealing with the humidity can be difficult. It’s a bit of a sweat-fest to be honest.
Rain and wind often cause boats and ferry services to be cancelled or delayed, and many Komodo liveaboards don’t operate during the rainy season. While visibility is not as good for diving and snorkelling, we still had a fantastic time island-hopping Komodo in February.
The Komodo Islands were an emerald green in February and yellow during our last visit in July. We also think that the sunsets in Labuan Bajo were much prettier in February.
Dry Season (April-October)
The dry season, which lasts from mid-April to mid-October, is widely considered to be the best time to travel to Flores. During our July visit, it was perfect. Labuan Bajo days were warm and pleasant, and we barely broke a sweat even when walking around. However, the mornings and evenings became chilly as we headed to Ruteng, Bajawa, and Moni in the highlands. Riung was nice and warm, much like Labuan Bajo.
Pack something warm for the mountains; you will need it. We did not, and the first thing we did in Ruteng was to go shopping for sweaters. Also, book accommodation with hot water – you can thank us later.
Snorkelling in Komodo and the 17 Islands Marine Park was excellent, with excellent visibility.
Given a choice, we’ll join the internet choir and chime in: April to October is the best time to backpack Flores. But hey, sometimes you only have holiday in December or February – so come when you can. You won’t be disappointed.
If you’re travelling to Indonesia in December, January or February, the Banda Islands or North Sumatra will have much better weather than Flores.
Trans Flores Transportation Options
You have choices when it comes to how to travel Flores overland. Ask your guesthouse upon arrival to book onward transportation for you.
Gunung Mas: This is a comfortable, shared minibus service running the Trans Flores, with a maximum of six to eight individual seats. They offer door-to-door service, so it’s a convenient option. We took Gunung Mas from Labuan Bajo to Ruteng, and from Ruteng to Bajawa.
Shared car: A shared vehicle (typically a Toyota Avanza) is another comfortable way to travel in Flores. You pay for an individual seat in the car and also get the door-to-door service. We took a shared car from Bajawa to Riung and from Riung to Ende.
Private car with driver: This is an excellent option for families. We’ve seen several European families (mom, dad and children) travelling with a car and driver. You get to tailor your trip exactly how you want, and you can stop where and whenever you want.
This is also the most expensive, as you need to pay for the car, fuel, driver and the driver’s food and lodging.
We met a cool guy called Theo in Bajawa. He turned out to be a driver waiting for his family. He seemed like good guy, and if I were to be driven across a rugged island with dragons, volcanoes and tribals (Dramatic? Me?), I want it to be Theo from Flores Paradise Adventure.
His WhatsApp is: (+62) 813 3742 6425
Public Bus or Bemo: Those who say there’s a blurred line between pleasure and pain will be over the moon when they see the public buses in Flores.
The buses might be a bit better, but the bemos (shared minibuses with wooden benches facing inwards running set routes) are cool for the first 5 minutes only. Bemos blast anything from techno to Boyz2Men at a billion decibels and stop every hundred metres to pick up passengers – and there’s always space for more.
Seriously, the few dollars you’ll save are not worth it. You’ll spend double in therapy once the PTSD kicks in after your trip.
We took a bus from Ende to Moni, which was ok.
Scooter/Motorbike: Want something to tell the grandkids? Travelling across Flores by motorbike must be one EPIC adventure. This company offers one-way scooter rentals between Labuan Bajo and Maumere—book well in advance.
Get a real motorbike license and medical insurance if you’re serious about this. Also, this is best done in the dry season.
Backpacking Flores: A Detailed Day-by-Day Itinerary
Okay, now that you know when and how to travel across Flores, it’s time to get this show on the road.
I kept it short and to the point but included links to in-depth guides with more information and photos for each destination. If not, this post would end up being longer the Trans-Flores Highway itself 😂
Day 0: Arrive Labuan Bajo
Most visitors arrive at Komodo Airport in Labuan Bajo. Despite being a small airport, it is modern and well-maintained. You won’t find any taxis outside the terminal, but there is a pre-paid taxi booth inside the building.
It’s a good idea to arrange an airport pickup with your hotel in advance. This is what we did, and we were met by La Cecile upon arrival. Once you have checked in, we recommend you rent a scooter to get around Labuan Bajo. You can ask your accommodation about rentals.
However, if you are visiting in July or August, it is best to reserve a bike a few days before your arrival. Our hotel was all out of scooters during our stay, and so were at least the other three places we contacted. After several attempts, we got lucky at Made Perama (WhatsApp +62 821 4444 5150).
We paid 75K IDR per day and a one-time fee of 30K IDR for delivery and pick-up of the scooter at our hotel. Once you have your own transportation, you can relax by the pool or go explore Labuan Bajo.
Even if you’re not staying at La Cecile, come for a sunset drink. The restaurant with live music has the best sunset view in Labuan Bajo.
Where to Stay: The lovely La Cecile sits on the highest point in Labuan Bajo, with incredible views, good food and a swimming pool. This was our second time staying at La Lecile, and I suspect it has something to do with why we love Labuan Bajo so much.
Tell me more: The Labuan Bajo Lowdown
Day 1: Full Day in Labuan Bajo
The first thing on today’s agenda is to organise your trip to Komodo for tomorrow or the coming days. You can choose from various trips that suit your taste, budget and duration, including multi-day liveaboards, speed boat day trips and slow wooden boats. Most tour agencies are located on Jalan Sakoerna Hatta (the street running past the Starbucks along the waterfront), making it the best place to shop for a Komodo trip.
While most agencies may ask for the same price for the same type of tour, there is some room for haggling. Before making a decision, ensure you know what’s included, the number of passengers, and your destination.
If you are looking for a private boat for an overnight trip (like us) and don’t have enough money for a liveaboard (like us), you may want to opt for a slow wooden boat. That’s what we did, and it was the best decision we made. Prices vary wildly, so make sure to shop around and HAGGLE HAGGLE HAGGLE.
After booking your Komodo trip, grab lunch at Happy Banana, which offers beautiful poke bowls, sushi, vegan and healthy food, or Santeria, a trendy little warung.
Labuan Bajo has incredible sunsets, so celebrate it at a place with a good view and a cold drink in your hand. Paradise Bar, La Cecile, or Green Cherry are great places to do just that.
For dinner, head to the night market, where you can select your fish, lobster, crab, squid, or shells, and they will grill them for you.
Where to Stay: La Cecile
Tell me more: How to get a private boat to Komodo on a budget?
Day 2: Komodo National Park
We left Labuan Bajo harbour around 9 am on our little boat and soon settled into life on the water. Our boat had a captain and his helper, and while they steered and prepared tea, coffee or food, we lived our best lives on deck.
During our Komodo trip we basically did nothing and jumped into the water to snorkel when the captain dropped the anchor. It was just great!
Our first stop for the day was Kanawa Island, where we snorkelled, swam and relaxed on the beach. After that, we moved to Manta Point, followed by another unbelievable snorkel session at Taka Makassar.
Taka Makassar is an idyllic, white sandbar facing Komodo Island, and the reef surrounding the little speck of sand is as good as good as snorkelling gets. Expansive coral gardens, both hard and soft, suddenly drop off into the cobalt-blue depths. I saw thousands of small reef fish, larger schooling fish and a black-tip shark.
We spent the night between Taka Makassar and Komodo Island, with magical luminous jellyfish lighting up the water around the boat.
Where to stay: On your boat like a real pirate
Tell me more: Island hopping and snorkelling in Komodo
Day 3: Komodo National Park to Labuan Bajo
Our second day in Komodo was just wow. The engines started put-put-putting as the sun was rising. We stumbled out of the cabin, and freshly brewed coffee and fantastic scenery greeted us as we cruised through the strong currents Komodo is known for.
Our first stop brought us to Padar Island, perhaps Komodo’s most famous and beautiful spot. A short but steep hike to the summit rewards you with a surreal view of the rugged island and its multi-coloured beaches. You’ll see a white, grey and pink beach (THE Pink Beach) almost touching but separated by the mountains on Padar.
Next up is Pink Beach. We hit up a secret pink beach (yes, there is more than one pink beach in Komodo). While most boats visit the famous pink beach on Padar Island, our captain took us to a secluded pink beach on Rinca Island, which we had to ourselves.
Pink sand and excellent snorkelling kept us happy for quite some time before we continued for the main event – the Komodo dragons.
You can see Komodo dragons on either Komodo or Rinca Islands. We visited Rinca Island and saw a few huge reptiles. You can choose between a short, medium or long hike on Rinca, escorted by a park ranger. We suggest a short hike, as it can get hot, and the rangers know where the dragons are. They usually hang around the ranger post.
Heading back to Labuan Bajo, you can stop at the stunning Kelor Island for some last swimming (but disappointing snorkelling) before arriving back in town.
Back in civilization, check in at your hotel, shower the salt and sunscreen off, and treat yourself to a nice massage at Wae Molas Spa. After eating boat food for two days, you’ll agree that Fellas has the best pizza in Labuan Bajo.
Where to stay: Golo Hilltop
Day 4: Labuan Bajo to Ruteng
Transportation: Gunung Mas
Cost: 160k IDR
Duration: 4.5 hours
We expected Ruteng to be a necessary stop between Labuan Bajo and Bajawa, but this unassuming town was a pleasant surprise. It’s definitely worth stopping here to see the beautiful countryside.
Ruteng has two main attractions, the spider web rice fields and Liang Bua Cave, located in opposite directions and both around 20km from the town. It’s possible to visit both in the afternoon, but it could feel a bit rushed.
Two Gunung Mas services leave from Ruteng to Bajawa, one in the morning and another in the afternoon. We opted for the afternoon service.
We faffed around a bit after arriving in Ruteng, having coffee and snacks with our hosts at the guesthouse. They recommended places to visit, and we rented a scooter from them for 70K IDR per day.
We then rode into town in search of something warm to wear. We didn’t anticipate how chilly it would be in the highlands of Flores, so we advise you to pack accordingly.
Liang Bua Cave is where the remains of the Flores Hobbit, an early human species, were discovered in 2003. The Hobbit was just over one metre tall, and it was fascinating to visit the cave and the nearby Liang Bua Museum.
Even if you don’t have a fetish for early humans or palaeontology, the ride out is gorgeous, with expansive rice terraces and beautiful views.
The sun was setting already when we arrived back in Ruteng, so we were glad we decided to take the afternoon Gunung Mas the next day.
For dinner, we found the cosy Agape Cafe, which is popular with guides and drivers bringing their guests. If you crave something hot or sweet after dinner, Pasketa Coffee has damn fine coffee, hot chocolate and baked goodies. Give the klappertaart (coconut pie) a try.
Where to stay: Kopa HillTop
Tell me more: Our guide to Ruteng
Day 5: Ruteng to Bajawa
Transportation: Gunung Mas
Cost: 120K IDR
Duration: 5 hours
In the morning, we drove out to the town of Cancar, home to Ruteng’s most famous sight. If there was one thing I was not too excited about seeing it was the spider web ricefields. But once again, Ruteng proved me wrong.
Reaching Cancar, you climb up a ridge overlooking the rice fields. The view from the top is stunning, and the size is quite spectacular. And it’s not just one rice field, but 11 of them covering the landscape below, like spider webs. Don’t skip the rice fields.
Back in Ruteng, you can check out the Ruteng Cathedral, grab lunch and catch your Gunung Mas to Bajawa.
***
If you thought the road was winding, twisting and turning up and down to Ruteng, you have seen nothing yet. The road between Ruteng and Bajawa is like the tango for vehicles.
It was the longest and most tiring leg of our Flores trip, with non-stop ups and downs, twists and turns. We reached Bajawa in the dark.
Note that all the tourist accommodations in Bajawa are in a little enclave outside the town. Gunung Mas will not drop you off at your guesthouse but at a junction about 2 km away. Make a run for the one or two informal taxis waiting, or contact your accommodation ahead of time to arrange for pickup.
Where to stay: Cinamon Guesthouse
Days 6 & 7: Full Days in Bajawa
Bajawa in the central highlands of Flores, at an altitude of over 1000 metres above sea level, is pure magic. Nestled on the forested slopes of the Innerie volcano, you’ll find some of the finest traditional villages in Indonesia, fantastic natural hot springs and some of the most sought-after coffee.
We spent two full days (three nights) in Bajawa and could easily have spent another day or two here. The area has so much beauty and interesting sights to explore, so make sure you have enough time to appreciate it. If you’re planning on summiting Mount Inerie in addition to sightseeing, you’ll definitely need at least three days in Bajawa.
The Bajawa attractions are all outside town, so you will need wheels. Ask your guesthouse to arrange a driver or an ojek (motorbike taxi), or rent a scooter and explore independently. We rented a scooter from Cinnamon Guesthouse, and Google Maps brought us (and got us lost) to all the sights we planned (and didn’t plan) on seeing.
On the first day, we rode north of Bajawa to Oggi Waterfall and Mangeruda Hot Springs. The hot springs were fantastic, and we spent a few good hours wallowing in the soothing hot water. The highlight of Mangeruda is the hot natural waterfall – you’ll see what we mean when you get there.
The next day, we headed south to the traditional villages of the Ngada and Lubu people. Numerous villages are hidden on the volcano’s slopes, with Bena Village being the most impressive. Luba village is less impressive but also less touristy. These villages offer a unique glimpse into the indigenous life and culture of Flores, where Christianity and animism coexist. You can also purchase some fine ikat in these villages.
Malanage Natural Hot Springs, located near Bena, is another highlight to visit in Bajawa. The hot spring is more like a hot river, with a cold and hot river converging at the swimming spot. We found Mangeruda more relaxing, with several swimming spots and pools, but Malanage is much more scenic. Visit both and decide which one you prefer.
For one of the best views in Bajawa, go to Heaven’s Door, a Mexican-inspired restaurant and bar that offers amazing views of Innerie Volcano and the surrounding countryside. They serve delicious food and strong drinks, making it the perfect spot for a sundowner.
Where to stay: Cinnamon Guesthouse
Tell me more: Our Guide to Magical Bajawa
Day 8: Bajawa to Riung
Transportation: Shared car
Cost: 100K IDR
Duration: 2.5 hours
Old and outdated travel blogs will tell you about the horrendous road between Bajawa and Riung. That’s no longer the case. The road is now in excellent condition, just like the main Trans-Flores Highway. There is still a short stretch (5 km or so) that’s still badly potholed, but that’s it.
Cinnamon Guesthouse reserved two seats for us to Riung the day before, and the car picked us up around 11 am. We stopped to pick up one more passenger and were off to Riung.
From Bajawa, the road heads uphill, reaches that potholed stretch and then twists and winds down until you reach Riung on the northern shore of Flores.
We checked in at Nirvana Bungalows, a nice little place with nine freestanding bungalows under the trees and a lovely garden. We asked them to do our laundry and discussed our plans to visit the 17 Islands Marine Park.
It’s best to arrange a boat trip to the islands with your guesthouse, as they usually have their own boat or can contact their friends for availability. The average cost for a full-day trip, including lunch, was 1.5 million IDR (just under $100). Your guesthouse can help you find others to share the boat with to reduce the cost.
For dinner, we had delicious grilled fish and cold Bintangs at Nirvana, but there are also a few other local restaurants in Riung.
Where we stayed: Nirvana Bungalows
Day 9: 17 Islands Marine Park
It’s not often you come across hidden gems like the 17 Islands Marine Park. This charming archipelago near Riung has uninhabited islands, white sandy beaches leading to coral reefs just a few meters from the shore, and a large flying fox colony. Despite being peak season in Flores, fewer than 20 people were in the park during our visit in July.
Our first stop was the flying fox colony, and man, are they incredible! The immense size of the creatures and their sheer number blew us away. And best, you’ll get to see them active during daylight.
There is some excellent snorkelling (although not as good as in Komodo) to be had before anchoring on a deserted island for some serious Robinson Crusoe time. We spent a few hours on Tiga Island, where we swam and snorkelled while our crew grilled up a mean fish BBQ on the beach.
Our next stop on our island hopping trip was Nunsa Rutong, where we climbed a steep hill for a sweeping view of the 17 Islands, followed by, you guessed it – more fantastic snorkelling.
Back in Riung, check out Pato Resto for good food and vibes, with live music for a nice little buzz in paradise.
Stay at: Nirvana Bungalows
Tell me more: A quick and wet guide to island hopping in Riung
Day 10: Riung to Moni
- Transportation:
- Riung to Roworeka Bus Terminal in Ende – shared car, 120K IDR, 4 hours
- Roworeka Bus Terminal to Moni – bus, 50K IDR, 1 hour
A shared car and a good road brought us to Ende in about four hours, and our driver dropped us at Roworeke Bus Terminal. Bus Terminal is a very ambitious name, as it’s just a spot by the side of the road in front of a shop.
A well-known Flores scam unfolded as soon as we arrived.
Within minutes, a guy (bemo driver) approached us and said there were no buses to Moni, and we’d have to charter his bemo to Moni for IDR 300K. When we asked other people standing around if there was a bus to Moni, Bemo Guy made big eyes at them, so they kept quiet and avoided our question. One kind soul gestured to us to wait, and that was all we needed. The bus arrived after 15 minutes or so.
So, don’t fall for the scammers’ lies that there are no buses to Moni or that the last bus for the day has left already.
The bus ride to Moni takes approximately an hour on a good road and is quite comfortable for a public bus in Indonesia.
Arriving in Moni, we checked in at Santiago Bed & Breakfast and rented a scooter at Rainbow Cafe for 150K IDR per day. Moni is tiny, and you can easily get around on foot, but you’ll need wheels to get to Kelimutu.
There is now also an ATM in Moni, contrary to outdated blogs that advise you to bring cash with you. The ATM is located between Santiago and Mopi’s Place.
Mopi’s Place is a delightful spot to spend time with beautiful, healthy food, good, strong coffee and live music at night. Also check out the Murundao Waterfall, a five-minute walk from Rainbow Cafe.
Where to stay: Santiago Bed & Breakfast
Day 11: Kelimutu & Moni
Our Flores itinerary wows until the very end. We realised that as we looked over the three surreal Kelimutu Lakes. It’s one of the most incredible natural Indonesian landmarks – something you must see for yourself.
These cater lakes are known to change colour due to volcanic vents that release gas and steam. The most recent colour-combo is a teal, a pale jade-green and a black lake. The brilliant teal-coloured lake used to be a reddish-brown until it changed colour overnight.
The local Lio people believe the lakes are the home of departed souls. Evil souls go to the teal lake, while good and young souls go to the pale green lake next door for the afterlife. Old souls are destined to the black lake for eternity.
After oohing and aahing at Kelimutu and enjoying some light hiking, you can ride your scooter down the Moni-Ende road to see the stunning rice terraces at Detusoko or for a soak in the Ae Oka hot spring. You can also visit the pretty village at Wollogai.
For dinner, we recommend trying Good Moni. It has a lovely deck overlooking the forest, and their soto ayam or croquettes are perfect for chilly nights.
Stay at: Santiago Bed & Breakfast
Tell me more: How to visit Kelimutu National Park
Day 12: Moni to Ende Airport
All good things must come to an end, right? (Who decided that???) Anyhoo. Like all good things, our Flores Indonesia itinerary has to end, too.
We arranged a private transfer with Santiago Bed and Breakfast to the airport in Ende, as we didn’t want to miss our flight.
H. Hasan Aroeboesman Airport in Ende (or just Ende Airport) has a brand-new terminal building which is modern and easy to navigate. There is only one little cafe in the departure area selling instant noodles, water, juice, and chips. If you want a proper meal, you can walk to the warungs across the street from the airport.
Ende Airport offers daily flights to Labuan Bajo and Kupang on Wings Air, which uses ATR 72 turboprop planes. Most people will just stay in Kupang long enough to catch their connecting flight to Bali, but we suggest you stay in Kupang for a day or two.
We found Kupang very laid back, with some of the friendliest people in Indonesia. It definitely is one of the country’s off-the-radar cities/regions to explore, so you might as well while you’re here.
You can also use Kupang as a starting point for an epic trip to explore the tribal villages of West Timor or travel overland to Timor Leste.
How I Shot This Guide
Every photograph in this article was taken with the exact same gear I carry on every journey. It is a setup refined over years on the road to keep travel light without compromising the final image.
- Camera: Sony A7 V
- Lens: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG DN Art.
- Storage: SanDisk Extreme Portable SSD
- Software: Adobe Lightroom Classic
- My travel essential (trust me): Ray-Ban Wayfarer
- Outerwear: My North Face Antora Rain Hoodie was a lifesaver more than once on this trip
Going to Bali or Jakarta next?
Endings are also new beginnings. Check out our guides to Bali or Jakarta for the next step in your Indonesia trip
And that wraps up our mammoth and epic itinerary for Flores, Indonesia. Ask away in the comments below if you have any questions.
Peace, Love and Nasi Goreng
✌️
woow, what a write-up. you will have spend so much time to write this article. thank you!
we are planning to visit in May 2025, Normally I spend weeks researching, but this time you are my guide. we will stay a little longer to explore also the eastern part.
Hi Francisca,
Glad to hear you found it useful. We really regret not visiting eastern Flores. I’m sure it will be well worth your time to travel east towards Maumere and beyond. Happy planning and enjoy your Flores trip 🙂
Hi De Wet and Jin
Thanks for all the information you posted. As we are planning a 4 month travel from Japan – SE Asia – Middle East – Europe, your articles are so helpful. I want to make one suggestion – would you put timing (month) of your travels in each article? As the weather plays a huge role in planning travels, that would help me to figure out what to expect for my time frame for different locations.
Good luck with your teaching position in Australia.
I hope you will continue to post great articles for us in 2026. Thanks much!
Hi Jina,
Thanks for the nice words and feedback. I thought we did have our travel months in the posts, but I’ll go and update them. We visited Flores in July.
That trip of yours sounds amazing!
We’re still (7 months in) waiting for our Australia visas to come through. Hopefully we can start publishing stories from Adelaide in 2026.