- We spent one night in Ruteng to break up the long journey between Labuan Bajo and Bajawa.
- Ruteng surpassed our expectations.
- We stayed at a friendly and squeaky-clean homestay just outside town.
- We’ll show you what to see and do in Ruteng
Picture Ruteng as the threshold where Flores truly comes into its own, especially when travelling east from Labuan Bajo. The allure of Komodo’s islands and dragons gradually gives way to a different spectacle – one of crisp mountain air, expansive rice fields, and breathtaking rural vistas.
Embraced by its cool climate and verdant surroundings, Ruteng offers a welcome change from the tourist hubbub of Labuan Bajo. Often regarded as a mandatory pitstop on the Trans-Flores Highway, Ruteng isn’t just an overnight stop. Two noteworthy attractions, beautiful landscapes and an authentic slice of local life make it a destination in its own right.
Initially, when plotting our Flores itinerary, we dismissed Ruteng as a mere logistical stop and even considered skipping it altogether. However, a visit to Ruteng proved us wrong.
Some might be tempted to bypass Ruteng and embark on a gruelling marathon journey from Labuan Bajo to Bajawa in a single day. (You’re looking at 10 -12 hours minimum). Frankly, I’d prefer a month of daily root canal treatments over that ordeal.
So, pause in Ruteng, stretch those legs, explore the sights, and enjoy the beauty of this unassuming town before venturing forth.
Here’s your guide to making the most of Ruteng.
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Quick Guide Ruteng, Flores
Getting there: The most comfortable way to reach Ruteng is by Gunung Mas. This comfortable minibus service with individual seats will pick you up and drop you off right at your accommodation. Ask your hotel a day before to call them and make a reservation.
Labuan Bajo – Ruteng: 160K IDR , 5 hours
Ruteng to Bajawa: 120K IDR, 5 hours
Getting around: The two main places to visit are outside town, so you’ll need wheels. Rent a scooter from your hotel, or ask them to arrange a car with a driver.
Where did we stay in Ruteng: We spent one night at Kopa Hilltop, a brand-new and friendly homestay just outside town. Our room was spotless, and the extra blankets and hot shower were lifesavers. The hosts spoke perfect English and welcomed us with coffee and snacks. You could also have lunch or dinner with them with advance notice.
How much time: We spent one night in Ruteng, which was just long enough to see the main attractions. While one day in Ruteng is enough, you could spend another day seeing the surrounding villages or wallowing in its untouristy charm.
Top tip: Ruteng gets chilly, so pack a sweater. We did not and it was so cold he had to go buy something warm. There is a cheap shop where everything is IDR 35K on the main street.
How Did We See Ruteng?
Gunung Mas dropped us off at our homestay, Kopa Hilltop, around midday, where our hosts, Adi and Fani, warmly welcomed us with coffee and snacks on the backyard deck. They recommended some Ruteng highlights, but with just one day in town, we realistically could only manage the Hobbit Cave and Spider Web Rice Fields.
We asked them to help reserve seats with Gunung Mas for the next day to Bajawa and arranged to rent their scooter until then. After that, we went off exploring Ruteng.
The Liang Bua cave turned out much more enjoyable than expected, and the scenic drive to reach it was worth the 40-minute journey each way. Although the cave and Hobbit Museum can be explored in around 20 minutes, numerous photo stops extended our journey. It really is a beautiful drive.
Returning to town, we finally admitted to ourselves that it was chilly and needed something warm. So we went shopping for warm clothes before dinner, followed by a visit to a coffee shop for hot drinks and sweet treats.
The next morning, we scootered to the village of Cancar to see the renowned spider web rice fields, Ruteng’s pride. Another picturesque drive unfolded with stunning landscapes and charming villages.
To end our Ruteng trip, we shared lunch with our hosts, and Adi sent us off with a shot of his homemade sopi (honey-flavoured homebrew) when he heard the Gunung Mas honking outside.
Overall, we really liked Ruteng, and could easily have spent another day here.
Places to See in Ruteng
Liang Bua Cave
Add Liang Bua Cave to your Ruteng trip, even if old bones and stones aren’t your thing. Beyond hosting a significant archaeological discovery, the journey to Liang Bua Cave is breathtaking. It’s one of those places where the route itself is as captivating as the destination.
Roughly 15 km from Ruteng, near Rampasasa village, this limestone cave gained fame in 2003 when the skeleton of the Flores Hobbit, scientifically known as Homo floresiensis, was unearthed here. The Lord of the Rings movie, released in 2001, no doubt had something to do with the skeleton’s nickname.
Standing about 1.1 meters tall (around three feet) and weighing roughly 30 kg, these hominins had small brains, large teeth, and receding foreheads. Despite their size, they showcased advanced behaviours like tool use and hunting, challenging assumptions about brain size and technological abilities.
The discovery of the Flores Hobbit, with its unique characteristics, has fueled scientific debates about human evolution and migration in Southeast Asia.
Some paleoanthropologists believe that the hobbits somehow travelled between islands to reach Flores, and stone tools suggest they had butchering skills. Others say that it’s possible that hobbits and early humans had met here in Flores, and the possibility of the hobbits going extinct due to clashes with early humans.
You can walk around the gigantic mouth of the Liang Bua Cave where the hobbit was found. Today, there’s not much to see, but knowing you’re standing at the spot where hobbits and humans might have met in real life, makes it an adventure on a whole different level.
[Google Maps]
Liang Bua / Flores Man Museum
A small museum dedicated to the Flores Hobbit provides a fascinating glimpse into the findings at Liang Bua cave. We were super excited to see the Homo foresiensis skeleton inside the glass display.
I was intrigued that such an important find would be displayed in this remote museum in the middle of nowhere. When I asked the caretaker, he told me it was a replica. Real or not, it’s still pretty cool.
We would see another exact same replica at the NTT Museum in Kupang, and eventually the real deal at the National Museum in Jakarta later on our trip.
The tiny museum has some interesting visual displays of early hominins and is well worth a visit. Due to its size, you’ll be done with the museum in about 15 minutes.
There is nothing aside from the cave and the museum in the area except trees and rice paddies. There is a small shop and petrol available about 1 km away.
Ruteng Scenery
A highlight of our visit to Ruteng (as elsewhere in Fores, and the entire Indonesia for that matter) was the beautiful landscapes. Even during the dry season in July, the scenery was that of fifty shades of green.
Our scooter rides took us through forests, interrupted every now and then by vistas of rice terraces backed by mountains and colourful villages with wooden houses scattered between.
Riding a scooter is by far the best way to appreciate the beauty of Ruteng. No doubt, you’re gonna make many photo stops and detours to see what is behind that next turn in the road.
The roads are all narrow but in decent shape. There is a short stretch of badly potholed road on the way to Liang Bua – you’ll know what I’m talking about when you see it.
Spider Web Rice Fields
The most famous attraction in Ruteng is the distinct rice fields shaped like spider webs. You’ll find the spider web rice fields in the village of Cancar, about 16 km west of town on the road leading to Labuan Bajo. As the norm in Ruteng, the scenery alone along the way is worth the journey.
Arriving in Cancar village, there are several entrances with steps to viewpoints perched on a ridge above the rice fields. Ask any local to point you in the right direction, or this Google Maps pin will take you to the viewpoint we visited.
A spectacular view awaits on top of the ridge. The sheer size (398 hectares) of circular rice fields lying in the valley below, like gigantic pie charts, is just spectacular. And it’s not just one spider web, but 11 in total.
I had pretty low expectations of these rice fields before visiting but was pleasantly surprised at how much I liked them. It’s definitely a place I recommend visiting.
Back at Kopa Hilltop, Adi shared more about these rice fields. Their unique shape is a result of the traditional communal farming practices of the Manggarai people and is exclusive to Flores.
The communal farmland known as lignko radiates outward from a central point called the lodok, earning the spiderweb rice fields the alternate name of Lingko rice fields. Each family receives a segment to cultivate, with further subdivisions among family members.
Younger sons farm the smaller sections near the centre, while elder sons manage the outer sections, providing them with the largest portions.
Ruteng Cathedral
Ruteng’s nickname – City of a Thousand Churches – might be pushing it a bit.
A thousand??
Really??
Anyhoo.
Flores is predominantly catholic, and you’ll see churches in each and every town as you travel across the island. You’ll find the large Ruteng cathedral in the centre of town, and it’s pretty hard to miss thanks to its size.
Visit the simple but beautiful building for a peek into Christianity within the world’s most populous Islamic country.
[Google maps]
Where to Eat in Ruteng
Agape Cafe
When dinner time came, we cruised the streets of Ruteng looking for a place to eat. We knew we found our spot as soon as we spotted Agape Cafe. It looked warm and cosy from the outside, and there were quite a few tourists already.
Their menu was a mix of Western and Indonesian comfort food. I went for the rawon (a dark brown beef soup from Java), while Jin got the veggie soup and spaghetti bolognese. It was just what we needed
During our dinner, several drivers and guides came in with their guests, so Agape Cafe is definitely a hit among visitors to Ruteng.
[Google maps]
Pasketa Coffee
Looking for something sweet? Then Pasketa Coffee is the place to be.
Besides damn good coffee and hot chocolate, you’ll find a tempting choice of baked sweets on display. It really is a sweet spot to spend some time and relax.
Give the klappertaart a go. This Dutch-influenced sweet translates to coconut tart, and the sweet baked custard with coconut flesh, raisins and almonds is as good as it sounds.
If that’s too exotic for you, there might also be brownies, mille crepe, tiramisu, and the other usual suspects.
[Google Maps]
Kopi Mane Inspiration
Like elsewhere in Flores, Ruteng is coffee country. For a kickass brew of Arabica or Robusta, head over to Kopi Mane Inspiration. The signature brew uses the local Yellow Catura Manggarai beans, and it’s just fantastic.
We found the old photos of the owner’s family and his trip to the Holy Land hanging on the walls pretty fascinating.
There is also food and snacks on the menu. The owner can also help with scooter rentals or guides for exploring Ruteng.
[Google Maps]
How I Shot This Guide
Every photograph in this article was taken with the exact same gear I carry on every journey. It is a setup refined over years on the road to keep travel light without compromising the final image.
- Camera: Sony A7 V
- Lens: Sigma 24-70mm f/2.8 DG DN Art.
- Storage: SanDisk Extreme Portable SSD
- Software: Adobe Lightroom Classic
- My travel essential (trust me): Ray-Ban Wayfarer
- Outerwear: My North Face Antora Rain Hoodie was a lifesaver more than once on our Flores trip
The Flores Files
Looking for more Flores travel information? Check out our other posts
Ruteng was a delightful surprise, and we’re sure you’ll feel the same. From stunning landscapes and unique cultural sights to cosy cafes, this town offers a lot more than meets the eye. Ruteng might be small, but it’s big on charm and definitely worth a stop on your Flores adventure.
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