You don’t need to remember that Český Krumlov in South Bohemia was founded in the late 13th century by the Lords of Krumlov, a branch of the powerful Rosenberg family. You don’t need to listen when I tell you how Český Krumlov flourished under the Rosenbergs before it became seats of the Houses of Egenberg and later the Schwarzenbergs.
But do listen when I say you must come and see this place. It is, without a doubt, one of the most beautiful towns in Europe. It is the proverbial fairytale town with a castle towering over a beautiful town with cobblestone streets and a river winding around it. Trust me on this one- Český Krumlov is damn fine.
We spent two nights in Český Krumlov last December, which was just grand.
Some of you might find this a bit odd.
Why?
Well, Český Krumlov is the most popular day trip from Prague, and almost everyone is happy with seeing the town in a few hours. Don’t be like them. Be like us and stay a night or two.
Also…Český Krumlov in December?? In the middle of winter??
Yes, Český Krumlov is amazing any time of year, but a winter trip to Czechia’s fairytale town has its special charms. It might just be the best time to visit.
So, let’s show you why visiting Český Krumlov in December is a good idea and what we did with our two days in town.
Thank you to VisitCzechia for hosting us in Český Krumlov and indulging our fairytale-town fetishes. As always, all opinions and recommendations are our own.
Please note: This post may contain affiliate links. This means I may earn a commission if you make a purchase by clicking a link (at no extra cost to you).
Quick Guide to Český Krumlov
Where we stayed in Český Krumlov: Boutique Hotel Romantick. Amazing Breakfast!
Getting to Cesky Krumlov: We rented a car in Prague. We always use Discover Cars and recommend them for the best rates. Driving from Prague should take about 2 hours.
RegioJet buses run hourly between Prague and Český Krumlov between 6 am and 7 pm, costing € 11. The journey takes just under three hours. Book your bus tickets here.
Getting around: Český Krumlov Old Town is mostly a pedestrian zone perfect for exploring on foot.
How much time: We found two nights perfect.
Top tips: Staying overnight allows you to see Český Krumlov without the crowds. Early morning and after sunset, when daytrippers have returned to Prague, show you an entirely different Český Krumlov than the one people on a day trip see.
Want a day tour from Prague? This top-rated day trip includes transportation, a guided walk, enough free time, and lunch.
Český Krumlov in December
We visited Český Krumlov from December 29th to 31st as a stop on our Bohemian road trip, spending two nights in town. With the shorter daylight hours in winter, we had enough time to fully appreciate the town without running around like squirrels on espresso.
Visiting Český Krumlov in December allowed us to experience the Christmas market, which is only possible this month. We planned our Austria-Czechia trip around cultural sights and Christmas markets, and Český Krumlov fitted the bill perfectly.
As one of the most beautiful towns in Europe, it gets crowded, especially in summer. It’s not only the most popular day trip from Prague; even Danube cruises include Český Krumlov as an add-on from Vienna. Yes, Český Krumlov does get A LOT of visitors, but now I understand why. Tourists don’t flock to mediocre places.
Visiting in winter means you can avoid the crowds. During our December visit, Český Krumlov was busy and buzzing, which was nice. It was definitely not overcrowded. I can’t even imagine what it looks like in summer. God help them.
While all the restaurants, cafes, accommodations, and museums were open during our visit, it’s important to note that the interior of the Český Krumlov Castle is closed in winter, from November to March. The castle grounds and courtyards remain open throughout the year. Outdoor activities such as river rafting might also not be possible in winter.
Weatherwise, it was cold, but luckily, it was not freezing. We didn’t need hats, scarves, or gloves. Unfortunately, it didn’t snow. But people, please, it’s the weather, and my crystal ball can get foggy. If you’re coming in winter, pack something warm and something waterproof. It is the weather, after all, and IT CHANGES!
Our Hotel in Český Krumlov
Boutique Hotel Romantick ticked all the boxes for a wonderful stay in Cesky Krumlov. The small hotel, with an impressive 9.3 rating on Booking.com, is comfortable, clean, quiet and has a great location just outside the old town. The hotel was fully booked during our stay (by Czechs), which says a lot about its reputation.
It has free, off-street parking, which allowed us to leave the car and explore the town on foot. If you’re on a self-drive trip, you will appreciate the free parking right on your doorstep, something that’s almost impossible to find in Český Krumlov’s old town.
We loved the incredible breakfast spread. There were eggs, cold cuts, cheeses, fruit and veggies, yoghurt and berries, bread and jams, and, of course, a free flow of coffee, tea, and juice. If you’re a breakfast person, you’ll love this place.
See prices and availability at Boutique Hotel Romantick
Places to See in Český Krumlov
Český Krumlov Castle
Majestically rising above the town and the winding Vltava River, the Český Krumlov Castle is damn fine and dominates the town’s skyline. It is the second largest castle in Czechia after the one in Prague.
The castle’s exterior is an exquisite blend of Gothic, Renaissance, and Baroque styles, reflecting the various periods of its construction and renovation over the centuries. During our visit in the winter, we could only admire the castle from the outside and walk through the courtyards. For most visitors, including us, seeing the castle from the outside is enough.
Unfortunately, climbing to the top of the castle’s tower was also impossible.
When we visited the castle on 30 December, there was no entrance fee, which was just grand! Thank you Cesky Krumlov.
Visitors can explore four courtyards of the castle before reaching the Cloak Bridge, followed by another courtyard and the Castle Garden. The best view in town awaits after the Cloak Bridge – see below.
The wall paintings in the courtyards were just incredible! These Renaissance paintings and graffiti in shades of grey, ochre, reddish-brown, and black were commissioned by Wilhelm von Rosenberg around 1577.
Český Krumlov Castle Opening Hours
- Jan-Mar: Tue-Sun, 9:00-15:30
- Apr-May: 9:00-16:30
- Jun-Aug: 9:00-17:30
- Sep-Oct: 9:00-16:30
- Nov-Dec: Tue-Sun, 9:00-15:30
Cloak Bridge
The Cloak Bridge is part of the Český Krumlov Castle and spans a chasm in the castle complex. It is between the 4th and 5th courtyards of the castle.
The five-layered bridge stands 40 meters tall, offering one of the best views over the old town and the Vltava River from the top. It is naturally one of the most popular photo spots in Český Krumlov.
For the best photo of the entire bridge without crowds, walk under the arches away from the Old Town for about a hundred meters. Like other areas in Cesky Krumlov, the crowds gather in specific spots, and the place just outside the Old Town is not one of them.
Old Town Český Krumlov
Across the Vltava River from the castle, the Old Town awaits, with cobblestone streets flanked by Baroque and Renaissance architecture. It’s one of those places where you can stroll till the cows come home while rubbernecking at the incredible Renaissance frescoes and graffiti that adorn almost every building.
The entire Old Town holds UNESCO status and is an exceptional example of a small Central European medieval town. It’s the perfect place to explore without a plan and (cliche alert) simply get lost. But fear not, Cesky Krumlov is small, and you’ll find your way around. The castle tower or church spires are good landmarks for orientation.
In town, you’ll find many restaurants and cafes, museums, and shops selling typical souvenirs and lovely wooden crafts from South Bohemia. We hunted down a few Christmas decorations that will go on our tree every year to remind us of our Christmas trip to Český Krumlov.
Here in the Old Town, we realised another advantage of not visiting Český Krumlov on a day trip. Unlike the hoi polloi who arrived on the day trip buses, we had the luxury of time to just sit in the winter sun with a beer or coffee.
Be like us, and remember to slow down and just be. There are few things better than day drinking in a stunning medieval European town on a sunny winter’s day.
Český Krumlov Viewpoints
A highlight of visiting Český Krumlov is the incredible views from various lookout points around town. Whether you’re a romantic (like us) or a photographer (also us), you’ll find dreamy vistas without even trying.
The name Krumlov originates in the German Krumme Aue, which means Crooked Meadow, referring to the sharply winding Vltava River. You’ll get fantastic scenes of the castle, roofs, and courtyards sitting in the crooked hairpin bend of the river from these vantage points.
Below are our favourite and most photogenic lookout points in Český Krumlov for that perfect photo.
Municipal Theatre
This viewpoint on the edge of the Old Town is actually the parking lot of the Municipal Theatre. We had it all to ourselves one morning when we walked from our hotel to the castle. From here you’ll get a lovely view of the Vltava with the tower of the St Jost Church and the castle tower behind it.
Find the theatre (location), then walk around to the parking lot next to it and walk towards the river.
Seminarni Zahrada
Seminarni Zahrada, or the Seminar Garden, is one of the more popular (okay, it’s very popular) viewpoints. The terrace has a nice panorama over the roofs and streets, with the castle behind them and the river in the middle. The surrounding area also has some stunning architecture. (location)
Besides wonderful castle views, you’ll see the monastery garden and brewery among the houses looking to the right of the castle. We loved the building with the window in the roof that looks like an eye.
Between the 2nd & 3rd Castle Courtyard
There’s a little lookout point in the castle that’s easy to miss. It’s just a doorway in the passage between the second and third courtyard, so most people walk straight by, eager to get higher into the castle. Look for a wooden door on the left as you walk up from the second to the third courtyard. It’s roughly halfway between them.
The door opens to a tiny balcony, large enough for only two people, that overlooks the Old Town and river. We like this viewpoint because you’re at about eye-level with the roofs of the Old Town, as opposed to looking down over them.
The 5th Courtyard
The undeniable king of the Český Krumlov views is in the fifth courtyard in the castle, just after crossing the Cloak Bridge. This is the most famous Český Krumlov’s lookout point, with the best views in town, so expect elbow-to-elbow action with plenty of selfie sticks thrown in the mix.
After crossing the Cloak Bridge, you’ll walk along a white wall to your left. The arched openings in the wall are perfect for framing your photos of Český Krumlov, so play around a bit with the angles until you hit gold.
Directly after the wall, on your left, is the money shot. You can’t miss this viewing platform; simply look for the selfie sticks and the distinct Instagram pouts.
But man is the view gorgeous. Understandably, everyone wants a photo here. Join them and click away. But also, put your phone or camera away and take in those views. It looks much better with your eyes than on a screen or through a viewfinder.
Paraplíčko Lookout
Well off the Český Krumlov beaten path, the Paraplíčko Lookout sits on a hill between the train station and the Old Town on Trida Miru Street. Steps lead past Cinema Luna to the Paraplíčko, which is a shortcut—don’t follow Trida Miru Street as it winds up the hill while the footpath goes straight up.
The lookout is about a 15-minute walk each way from the Cloak Bridge. Once you reach the top of the steps, you’ll find the Paraplíčko (umbrella), a metal roof structure and a bench, providing a great view of the entire castle complex and the forested meadows surrounding the town. (location)
Český Krumlov After Dark
One thing a day tour to Český Krumlov can never offer is a night view. Until night tours become mainstream (I’m not holding my breath), day-trippers will be sleeping on their bus back to Prague while we can see an entirely different side of town.
After dark, you can almost hear Český Krumlov sigh in relief as her beautiful streets quiet down and the last tour buses drive off to whence they came from. And then when the buildings light up, you can start sightseeing all over again.
You could be like us and do it independently, or go on this guided night walk through Český Krumlov and let a local show you a few hidden gems while listening to haunted stories linked to the town.
If you’re here in December, you must, of course, hit up the Christmas Market in the town square at night.
Český Krumlov Christmas Market
For many, December in Český Krumlov means one thing: Christmas market! Held in the picturesque town square, the Christmas market has something for young and old.
When we came to the market one night, we were happy to see a great band playing a mix of rock and Christmas songs. Český Krumlov’s Christmas Market is a little firecracker with cheap, delicious food, drinks and entertainment!
Adults can enjoy svařák (mulled wine), beer, and other lovely alcoholic concoctions to keep them warm and festive, while the kids can enjoy hot chocolate and a cute wooden merry-go-round.
The stalls sell a good variety of food, drinks, and Christmas crafts.
You must try trdelnik (a traditional Bohemian pastry). Also known as chimney cakes, they are best enjoyed hot off the coals in their natural environment. You’ll see the strips of dough rolled on round pins rotating over coals, or simply follow the sugar and cinnamon aroma to find them.
Have a Beer at the Krumlov Brewery
I looked forward to a cellar tour followed by a few nice cold ones at the Krumlov Brewery, so I was severely disappointed when a Google search told me it was temporarily closed. I’m not sure if this was because of the Christmas season or who knows why.
But we still decided to go check it out.
Why?
Because beer. In its natural habitat. And I don’t give up that easily.
Google Maps lead us to a beautiful brick building, which might have been a church earlier in its day, judging by the cross motives on the walls. Walking around the corner, we found the entrance to the brewery, which was indeed shut like Barbie’s butt.
A laminated sign on the door had the following details:
Regular Tours Daily at 4 pm (this was crossed out with a pen)
Group Tours from 10 am to 6 pm
Phone: +420 775 733 462
Email: tours@pivivarck.cz
WhatsApp: +420 736 276 967
Reservations Required in Advance.
You can also book a brewery tour online, which we only learned about when I wrote this blog.
There was also an arrow pointing to the right saying BEER SHOP, which gave me a glimmer of hope.
The beer shop was actually a small bar, so we wasted no time and ordered a light lager for Jin and a stronger Christmas beer for myself. The tiny bar only had a few tables inside, which were full already, so we sat outside in the tent next to the gas heater. It was great!
Take a Trip to Holasovice
Czechia’s stunning UNESCO village of Holasovice is just over 20 km north of Český Krumlov. If you are driving, you must stop here to see one of the most beautiful villages in South Bohemia. Getting to Holasovice by bus from Cesky Krumlov is possible, but it will be time-consuming.
Holasovice has remained pretty much the same since Medieval times, and it’s a beautiful slice of rural Czechia. The village is famous for its Bohemian Folk Baroque farmsteads, built in a U-shape around the village green.
You can see the entire village in about an hour, so it makes a beautiful and convenient stop to or from Český Krumlov. We stopped here for an hour on the way from Karlovy Vary, and I think it was a great addition to our trip.
Where We Ate
We ate and drank like royalty in Český Krumlov. Lord Krumlov and the Rosenbergs would be proud of us. We had our amazing breakfasts at our hotel, tried some Christmas market food from the stalls in the town square and had a few beers in between. We also dined at the following places:
Travel Hostel
Jin read on Korean blogs about the fantastic food at Travel Hostel, so we HAD TO GO THERE for dinner on our first night in town. I had my doubts about having dinner at a hostel, but Jin’s food tips never disappoint.
The restaurant felt a bit like a dungeon, which was great for getting us in a medieval/Renaissance mood, lol. We arrived HUNGRY, so we ordered three dishes to share. Of course, we each had our own beer. That we don’t share. Yes, that’s how we roll.
We ordered the fried cheese, a plate of beef goulash with Karlsbad dumplings, and potato dumplings stuffed with smoked meat and cabbage. It was a hot and heavy carb and meat extravaganza with beer you can only find in Czechia.
We left very full and happy!
Hanoi Memories
For us, Vietnamese food is always a good idea. After plenty of goulash, dumplings, potatoes, and sausages on our Czech trip so far, the light flavours of Vietnamese cuisine were a welcome change.
Hanoi Memories has a lovely riverside setting with outside seating when the weather is nice. We shared a Saigon pho and a Bun Cha, and they both hit the spot!
The menu also has some Thai options.
Kebab & Pizza Krumlov
We wanted something quick and casual on our last night in Český Krumlov, so we headed to the pizza and kebab joint. The doners were good, and the sauce was nice and garlicky. We ended our meal with two cups of tea and some nice, sweet, sticky baklava.
The local teenagers and police officers who occupied the other tables are proof that it’s good and affordable.
And THAT, people, is how you do Český Krumlov in December (or any time for that matter)! I hope the beer is cold, the svařák hot, the crowds light, and the views to die for. Let us know in the comments below if you have any questions, and we’ll try our best to help
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