Flamenco at Casa Anselma in Seville

ADMISSION NOT GUARANTEED

Soon after arriving, we are joined by a woman who looks lost as well. Born in Colombia she now lives in Melbourne. So we chat and wait together. She got here by asking a taxi driver to take her to the most authentic flamenco show in Seville. Before long there is a steady stream of people arriving and the line gets longer. We are glad we got here first as we’ll get the best seats in the house. Or not…

Just after midnight, the shutters roll open. An enormous string of pearls worn by an even bigger personality greets us. Abrupt, loud and witty, we soon realize that it’s Anselma herself. She walks down the queue and checks everyone out. Then she hollers in Spanish: Anyone here from Colombia? (our new Australian-Colombian friend translates for us).
Our new friend says that she was born in Colombia.
NO, NOT YOU! Anselma was obviously not referring to her.
The real Colombians identify themselves and are allowed to enter.

One by one Anselma selects people waiting in line who she deems worthy to enter. Our new friend gets to go in before us. The elderly couple behind us gets the green light. One by one people gets handpicked to enter. In the end, it’s just the two of us left waiting outside. I decide I’m not going to grovel because that is perhaps what she wants, so we just stand there like two naughty kids in front of the headmaster’s office. We fidget with our fingers and try to give a shy smile. She gives us the elevator stare, and then perhaps decides that we are worthy after all. She steps aside and gestures for us to go inside.

THE HOUSE OF ANSELMA

The paraphernalia adorning the walls immediately tells us that we are indeed in Anselma’s casa. Framed pictures of Anselma going back years have her smiling with, what we guess must be, Spanish celebrities. There is a stuffed bull’s head, newspaper clippings a shrine to the Virgin Mary and years and years of memories on display.

The audience takes their seats and the bar lady comes around to take orders. There is no cover charge here, but you must buy a drink. That is the only price you’ll pay to see the show. Before taking orders, Anselma makes it clear that they haven’t served wine or beer in here for a long time – it’s hard liquor only. We pay €6 each for a stiff G&T.

SHOW TIME

Once everyone has received their drinks, three musicians armed with their guitars and percussion box take their seats. The air is thick with anticipation. Within seconds the room explodes. Not only with the sound of rhythmic guitar chords, but with even more important instruments: that of their powerful voices, clapping of hands and clacking of castanets.

The show progresses into what seems like a spontaneous celebration. Friends of Anselma come in from outside, dance a number or two and then leave again. A punter from the bar shouts out a request and immediately the musicians follow in tow. Everyone in the audience sings along.

One of the real Colombians jumps up and performs a lustful dance to everyone’s enjoyment. A woman wearing what looks like a wedding dress comes in from the street and does a number before she passes out in the back row. Casa Anselma is the best authentic flamenco experience that normal tourists can get in Seville.

Stop dancing! I want to sing! Anselma flamboyantly raises her arms to let the band know that it’s her turn. She cracks a few jokes which we don’t get. Then she does what she does best. She gives her rendition of My Way in Spanish. The lights get dimmed and the musicians stand up to face the shrine of the Virgin Mary. In almost complete darkness Anselma and her band end the show with Ave Maria.

Anselma kicks us all out around 02:15 and as we walk back through the Triana neighbourhood to our apartment we are glad to have experienced this authentic flamenco show in Seville.

The next morning I post a video clip on Instagram. Once again Meredith replies within seconds: OMG!!! Anselma is such a boss and I want to be like her when I grow up!!

WHAT TO EXPECT WHEN GOING TO CASA ANSELMA

Do come here if you are looking for a fun and interactive night out, and you want to experience an authentic flamenco in Seville. Casa Anselma is a hotspot for sevillanas (local folklore songs). You’ll get to join in with the singing and dancing and enjoy Anselma’s witty charm. Even if you don’t speak a lick of Spanish (like us) you’ll still get to enjoy her jokes and the fantastic atmosphere. You’ll love Casa Anselma if you want to sing along and perhaps dance yourself.

If you are looking for an intimate flamenco experience, almost like a house concert, then Anselma’s Casa is your casa.

If you are looking for the typical flamenco show as advertised on flashy websites and brochures you’ll be disappointed. You won’t get a sit-down meal before the show. No one wears red and black costumes and there are no special effects or amplified sounds. If you are looking for something like that, perhaps check out other flamenco shows.

Read more: How to enjoy Seville in 3 days

WHERE TO SEE THE BEST AUTHENTIC FLAMENCO IN SEVILLE

Casa Anselma is located in Seville’s Triana neighbourhood. Triana is across the river from Barrio Santa Cruz where the main sights (Alcazar et al ) are. It’s a nice 30 minute or so walk from the cathedral to Casa Anselma.

Adress: Calle Pages del Corro 49
Phone: +34 606 162 502