Seville embodies everything that wannabe visitors picture Spain to be from Moorish palaces filled with tiles and palm trees to gothic cathedrals to passionate flamenco dancing to mouthwatering tapas to bullfights to sunny and warm weather. Seville seduces as few other cities can. No wonder it’s at the top of the wish list for many travellers. Our 3 days in Seville itinerary shows you how to make the best of this sexy city.
Seville is an unmissable stop on any Spain and Portugal itinerary. Our Seville itinerary shows you the best attractions, sightseeing spots, and tapas restaurants in Andalusia’s capital city over 3 days.
We will explore the major sites, and historic neighbourhoods, go for a real, local flamenco night and consume copious amounts of tapas, vermouth and sangria. We go out of our way to search for the best tapas in town. By doing this, we also see the different neighbourhoods of Seville.
There are many things to see and do in Seville. However, we think that it’s important to narrow down what you want to see and truly enjoy that, rather than running around like a madman from dawn until dusk. Our itinerary is based on leisurely exploring the highlights of Seville in 3 days. Less is more. If you are looking to do a lot more, can we perhaps suggest a Contiki tour of 22 countries in 7 days?
Basically, we’ll see one sight in the morning followed by a long lunch. The summer afternoons are crushingly hot, so we do as the locals and celebrate siesta. After siesta, it’s time to explore again before having a late dinner. That’s how we roll.
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Quick Guide to Seville, Spain
When did we go? July
Where did we stay in Seville? Apartamentos Diaber Edificio Constitución
How long to spend in Seville? At least 3 days
Getting to Seville: San Pablo Seville Airport has flights to the rest of Spain and the world. The most convenient way to reach Madrid is by the highspeed Renfe train
Unique experience: Seville Tapas Crawl
WHERE TO STAY IN SEVILLE
We suggest you stay central to make the most of your three days in Seville. When staying in the Bario Santa Cruz neighbourhood, you can walk everywhere we mention in our guide. We never took any transportation, except for getting the bus from Santa Justa train station on arrival and a taxi to Armas bus terminal at the end.
We stayed at the fantastic Apartamentos Diaber Edificio Constitución, located right across the road from both the Alcazar and Seville Cathedral. Location, location, location.
It has a small but well-equipped kitchen for making your own breakfast and a washing machine. Best of all, it has AC to really take your siesta to the next level.
Check prices and availability Booking.com
THINGS TO DO IN SEVILLE: DAY 1
Our train from Madrid arrived just after 13:00, so we were starved when we checked in and finished unpacking. Before diving into Seville, we quickly went grocery shopping for the next few days’ breakfasts.
There is a Spar supermarket just down the road from our apartment with everything you might need to stock your fridge.
Sidenote: Don’t go grocery shopping when hungry.
TAPAS AT LA BARTOLA
We dropped in at La Bartola (location), and just wow! Small and intimate, La Bartola was busy when we arrived, which was neither lunch nor dinner time, really. Luckily, we didn’t have to wait to get a table. Service was quick and friendly, and the food was absolutely delicious.
They serve complimentary bread and olives before taking your order. We had a glass of Vermut and a glass of Tinto Verano and ordered two main dishes and four tapa-sized dishes, and a tiramisu to share for dessert. The total for this came to €29.50.
This is what we had, and they all come recommended:
- Ternera de Retinto (Steak with potatoes)
- Wok con Verduras (Iberico Pork and Veg stir fry)
- Caponata Tapa (Eggplant Salad)
- Timbal de Pulpo (Octopus and pudding potatoes)
FLAMENCO SHOW AT CASA ANSELMA
We can’t think of a better place to experience flamenco in Seville than at Casa Anselma in the Triana neighbourhood. Unlike the touristy flamenco shows advertised elsewhere in town, Casa Anselma offers you a local flamenco experience without the make-up, flashy lights, amplified sound and costumes. It rather feels like a house concert and the intimate atmosphere is outstanding.
Anselma, the owner, is a bossy lady but a master performer. She is also the one who opens the doors around midnight. She will then decide who gets to enter and see the show and who stays outside, so admission is not guaranteed. There is no cover charge; however, you must buy a drink. We had a stiff Gin and Tonic each for €6.
DON’T LEAVE SEVILLE WITHOUT GOING TO CASA ANSELMA.
Soon after midnight, the three musicians with their guitars enter and start playing. The room explodes with energetic singing, rhythmic hand-clapping, foot-tapping and clacking of castanets. It seems as if there is no set program.
Anselma’s friends come in and dance a few numbers and then leave. Then, someone else takes over the dance floor. Someone shouts a request from the bar, and immediately,y the musicians start playing another song. The audience goes wild. Someone jumps up and dances to the cheer of the audience.
A clown selling balloons comes in and watches for a while before going out on the streets again. Anselma ends the show with her beautiful rendition of Ave Maria. Our show finished around 02:15.
Adress: Corner of Calle Pages del Corro and Covadonga in Triana.
Update 2021: It seems that Anselma has retired and that Casa Anselma has closed down. However, rumours are doing the rounds that the venue might reopen later, but without the charismatic Anselma. If you have any information, please do let us know. Until it reopens, try this Tablao Flamenco instead.
Read everything about our night at Casa Anselma.
Things to Do in Seville: Day 2
After having a wonderful DIY breakfast at our apartment, we are ready to jump right back into our Seville itinerary.
Today, we’ll visit the Alcazar, followed by yet another fantastic tapa lunch before coming home for a siesta. Around sunset, we’ll head out again to the Plaza de Espana before having a late dinner. So let’s get going!
REAL ALCAZAR
The Real Alcazar, or Royal Palace, should be on the top of your list of things to do in Seville. This is probably the Spain you had pictured in your mind before coming here. Half Moorish, half Spanish and totally incredible, the Alcazar is a stunning collection of architecture in colour, art and brilliance.
You’ll be amazed by the courtyards and floors covered in arabesque tiles, intricate lace-like plasterwork, gigantic yellow halls with equally gigantic tapestries hanging on the walls and more tiles, fountains and greenery in the surrounding gardens. The Alcazar is Spain at its most brilliant.
The Alcazar came to be in the 11th century when Seville was under Moorish rule. It started as the seat of the Moorish government but slowly evolved into a Royal Palace over time. When the Spanish reconquered Seville in the 13th century, they decided to keep the Alcazar as a royal residence. It’s still used as the residence of Spain’s royal family up until today, even though they don’t come here that often.
Your mouth will hang open as you walk from one brilliant room to the next. We came to the conclusion that this masterpiece is the result of a combination of too much time and money. After visiting the magnificent rooms, make sure to walk through the lush formal gardens.
Game of Thrones fans will recognize the gardens as the location of the House of Dorne. Hardcore Game of Thrones fans will want to take the Game of Thrones tour to really understand the show on a much deeper level than the average GOT fan at home 😝
Our apartment was just across the road from the entrance to the Alcazar. Whenever we looked out the window, we could see the long line waiting to buy tickets. Don’t be like them. Be like us and buy your skip the line tickets online. By doing so you can choose a time slot and walk right in.
Entrance to the Alcazar and gardens is €12.50, including an audio guide.
Plan to spend about 2-3 hours at the Alcazar.
TAPAS AT LA BRUNILDA
By now you should be hungry again. We walk across town in search of one of Seville’s sexiest tapas venues. La Brunilda (location)is one of the hottest places in Seville for modern, fusion-style tapas.
The waiters look like they had just fallen off the catwalk at Barcelona Fashion Week. They are all beautiful, somewhat angry, somewhat indifferent, yet the service is fast and professional. The food here is out of this world; probably the best we had in Spain.
Tables have a QR code which you can scan to see the menu with pictures in a language of your choice.
This is what we had, and they all come recommended. The bill came to €28.10.
- A glass of Vermut and a beer
- Beetroot gazpacho with goat cheese
- Risotto with idiazabal cheese and mushrooms
- Grilled Iberian pork shoulder with potatoes and cheese
- Grilled octopus with vegetables and soy mayo
SIESTA
Do as the Spaniards do and take a nice long siesta. By midday, you can feel the whole city is winding down as everyone tries to escape the hot afternoon. The sun only sets around 22:00 in summer, so go home and get some rest before we head out again.
You can stop at the Plaza de Toros, Seville’s bullring, on the way home if you want since it’s a short detour from La Brunilda. The Baroque bullring from 1762 is considered the finest in Spain and one of the oldest in the world. Guided tours are on offer every 20 minutes.
PLAZA DE ESPANA
The monumental Plaza de Espana was constructed for the Ibero-American Exposition World’s Fair that took place in Seville in 1929. Designed to represent Spain and its colonies in the New World, the plaza is a masterpiece in red brick and tile.
Come here around 20:30 (in summer) to see it, basking in the late afternoon sun, which will make for better photos. Hugging the base of the half-moon-shaped building is a series of 48 alcoves with brilliant tiles. Each of these alcoves represents a province of Spain.
Climb the stairs up the North Tower to see the sunset and wait for the lights to go on. It’s absolutely splendid. The Plaza Espana is free to visit.
DINNER AT PIZZA DA GABRI
Not feeling like tapas again? Neither did we. A quick best pizza in Seville Google search leads us to Pizzeria da Gabri. Only a few blocks away from the cathedral, this hole in the wall is worth searching out if you are not in the mood for tapas.
Light on the crust, heavy on the flavours, the pizza here is great. The friendly owner hails from Milan, so he knows a thing or two about pizza. There is a small counter on the narrow sidewalk in front where two people can sit and eat.
Things to Do in Seville: Day 3
Our last day in Seville starts as usual, with breakfast at home. We bought jamon, cheese, bread, yoghurt, and fruit from Spar supermarket on our first day, and we had them with a pot of strong black coffee. Quite continental if you ask me…
We lounge around in our pajamas while looking out the window to see people lining up to enter the Alcazar. Poor people—they should have bought it online!
Anyhoo.
We are not judging. It’s time to move on and enjoy our last day in Seville. By now, you should know the routine: morning sightseeing followed by lunch. After lunch, it’s siesta time before evening sightseeing and dinner.
SEVILLE CATHEDRAL
The Seville Cathedral is a mammoth both in size and age. In fact, it’s the largest cathedral in the world. Like the Alcazar, the UNESCO World Heritage Seville Cathedral is a must-see in Seville.
Like most other things in Seville, the cathedral is a mishmash of Moorish and Christian elements. Originally a mosque, it was converted to a cathedral when the Christians conquered Seville in 1401.
Stunning entrances lead you into the gaping interior. Inside, you’ll be amazed by golden altarpieces, gothic vaulted ceilings, and religious works of art, including works by Goya. Being so large, some sections look and feel so different from each other. You’ll go from over-the-top gold to dim and sombre to simple white and light as you explore the various parts of the building.
The Seville Cathedral is, without a doubt, one of the most famous and beautiful landmarks in Europe, and it should not be missed.
THE TOMB OF COLUMBUS
Christopher Columbus from your history class is said to be resting in the Seville Cathedral, too. There is some controversy, though, as to where exactly his body lays. The Dominican Republic also claims to be his final resting place.
Columbus died in Spain, but his remains were moved to colonial Santo Domingo. After the Dominican Republic gained independence from Spain, his body was moved again to Havana, Cuba. After a hundred years in Cuba, Columbus made his final journey back to Spain to the Seville cathedral. Some believe, though, that his remains never came back to Spain.
Conspiracy theories aside, you’ll find the tomb of Columbus held up in mid-air by four figures representing the four kingdoms of Spain during Columbus’ life. Before his death, Columbus had fallen out with the Spanish Royal family. As a result, he insisted that over his dead body would he be buried on Spanish soil. For this reason, he is held up in mid-air above Spanish soil.
After viewing the interior, walk in the beautiful Patio de Los Naranjos, the central courtyard filled with Seville’s famous orange trees. In total, allow at least 2 hours to see the cathedral.
Once again we suggest buying your fast track entrance ticket online. This will save you a lot of time, and lining up in the fierce sun outside can’t be fun either. Entrance to the cathedral is free on Mondays. On other days, it costs €10 for a combined ticket to the cathedral and the Giralda Tower.
THE GIRALDA
The Giralda, or Bell Tower, offers a sweeping 360-degree view over the buttresses and roof of the cathedral with the city of Seville behind it. It also overlooks the Patio de Los Naranjos. Just like the cathedral, the Giralda has Moorish roots as it served as the minaret of the mosque where the cathedral stands now.
Thirty-five ramps will take you to the top of the tower. These ramps were built so the Muslim muezzins could ride on horseback to the top of the tower to call out their prayers.
The entrance fee is included in the cathedral ticket. Plan to spend about an hour or less, depending on the traffic on the ramps.
CHEAP TAPAS AT LA CATA CIEGA
You guessed it! Time for tapas again. This time, we’re going somewhere cheap but still tasty and filling.
Tiny La Cata Ciega has seating at the bar or a single table for 2. The food here is great and quite affordable. We could have stayed here longer and had more Tinto, but that would seriously interrupt our siesta.
This is what we had (total €22.60)
- 2 glasses of tinto
- 1 beer
- Ratatuille
- Braised wild boar cheeks
- Iberian Sirloin with cream cheese
- King prawns, leek and old mustard
METROPOL PARASOL
Symbol of modern Seville, the Metropol Parasol has earned itself the popular nickname of Las Setas amongst locals. This translates to The Mushrooms. Perhaps it looks like mushrooms from the bottom, but from the top, it reminded me of those dinosaur skeleton toys you assemble yourself.
The Mushrooms offer a great view over Seville and is the perfect place for sunset as you’ll see the cathedral and churches light up over the city. Taking the elevator up and enjoying the sweeping view is just grand. It does get really busy, though, around sunset, so get here well in advance. We stood in line for about 30 minutes before we could go up. Save yourself some time and get your ticket online before your visit.
We were apprehensive about this free drink and expected a paper cup of soda. We were in for a surprise! After your visit, you can go around the corner to Cerveceria la Surena and get a drink of your choice. We happily traded our voucher for a beer and a Tinta de Verano.
PAELLA DINNER AT PERRO VIEJO
Time for yet another late dinner. Before leaving Spain, we had to try paella, so Jin found Perro Viejo, just around the corner from the Parasol (location). It was still packed when we arrived there after 22:00. We had to wait for a little while since we didn’t have a reservation, but the wait was worth it. We ordered the squid ink paella and a tapas portion of yakitori chicken. Both were amazing.
The total for two glasses of white wine, a bottle of Alahambra beer, bread and olives, the paella and yakitori chicken came to €32.10.
3 Day Seville Itineray Map
Are 3 Days in Seville Enough?
We think three days is the minimum amount of time to spend in Seville if you want to see and experience the city without feeling rushed. Of course, if you can stay longer, that would be ideal.
With more than three days, you could also add day trips to places like Cordoba to see the Alhambra, or the stunning white villages (Pueblos Blancos) of Andalusia. Or stay put in Seville, drink more sangria, eat more tapas, and explore more.
Where to Go After Seville
The high-speed RENFE train can get you from Santa Justa station to Atocha station in Madrid in about 2 hours. If heading that way, have a look at our self-guided walking tour of Madrid.
Marbella on the Costa del Sol is your place if you’re looking for a good time by the beach.
Or follow us as we cross the border over to Evora in Portugal. Read here how to travel by bus from Seville to Evora.
Now it’s your turn: We are sure you will love Seville as much as we did. Now go and save our 3 days in Seville itinerary and enjoy your time in this lovely city. Let us know in the comments below where you got the best tapas in Seville.