Kei Islands: Could This be Indonesia’s Best Beach?

Tucked away in the far eastern corner of Maluku province, the Kei islands have perhaps the best beach in Indonesia, a country known for beautiful beaches. That’s a bold statement I know, and we haven’t nearly been to all the beaches in Indonesia but believe me when I say it’s paradise.

Pasir Panjang: The Best Beach in Indonesia

If Maluku province has the best beaches in Indonesia (as some claim) then the best beaches in Maluku must surely be on the Kei Islands. The Kei islands have a jaw-dropping beautiful beach around every bend in the road.

Yet Pasir Panjang Beach at Ohoililir village should be your obvious choice as it has good accommodation and food. You never have to (or want to) leave this place.

A stretch of talcum powder sand separates the gin-clear water from the green palm grove where the land really begins. You will move between these zones throughout the day as you are swimming, sun tanning and seeking shade or nipping back to your cottage for a nap.

The water is lukewarm and flat like a gigantic swimming pool. Other than a few village fishermen and their kids you’ll have the beach to yourself. You still have to share it with some huge starfish though. While I’ve never been to Polynesia I imagine it must be something like the Kei islands.

Ohoililir village is about a 500-meter walk away through the palm grove. Here you’ll find a few houses of the fishermen and seaweed farmers, a small kiosk selling a few snacks, a school and a church. In the afternoons there are always soccer games and it’s good fun to join in.

Where to Stay in the Kei Islands

Coaster Cottages on Ohoililir Beach is a place where you are ambushed by clichés in the very best way possible. 

The cottages are nestled in tropical vegetation just a stone’s throw away from the crystal clear waters lapping on a white powder beach which reminds me of flour. The sun-kissed stretch of sand and swaying palms look like photoshopped travel brochures. A short walk through lush greenery will bring you to a quaint village. The beach is actually deserted.  It seems like a best-kept secret. This is what would stereotypically be described as PARADISE.

The beach at Coaster Cottages ruined every other beach that I will ever visit.

With various types of rooms available, there is something for every kind of traveller at Coasters.
Coaster Cottage 1, or the old cottage was where I stayed and they were just lovely. Very comfortable bed with mosquito net and fan. It has an ensuite mandi bathroom. You can go from your bed to diving into the water in under a minute ( but that’s pretty much true everywhere at Coasters). The price for the whole cottage is IDR 165,000 per night.

The New Cottage or Coaster 2 is situated in the main house and is much larger than the old cottage. The only other difference I could spot was the mandi is in a shape of a plastic shell. The veranda outside the room is where guests have meals though, so it lacks privacy if that’s what you want. IDR 250,000 per room per night.

For families, the Villa will be a great choice. Its located a little further away from the main house and has two bedrooms and a sitting room with a wrap-around verandah. It also has a TV and DVD player. Rate: IDR 800,000 for the whole house per night

Coaster Cottages Details
Email: bob.azyz@yahoo.co.id
Phone: +6281 343 472 978

Makan (Food) in the Kei Islands

Makan! Maakaan! Maaaaaakaaaaaan!
Ketty’s voice weaves through the palms and finds me in the shallow liquid glass. The schedule in paradise revolves around makan (food) time. Ketty the manager/ PR officer/ stock controller/ cleaner/ companion is a great cook with a big heart and she’ll provide three delicious meals a day for IDR 125 0000.

Days always start with doughnuts or sago pancakes left on my porch next to a thermos with freshly ground coffee. Ketty’s magic potion of sugar and caffeine gets the buzz going until lunch when she will summon me again.

When I arrive at Coasters there are 4 other guests already. After three days they leave and I am the only guest, yet the amount of food during lunch and dinner does not reflect this. Whether Ketty cooks for one or she cooks for five, the quantity stays the same.

During my last 3 days, I sit down for my solitary meals to a table heaving under dishes that I could never finish.

Coasters offer the best of Kei home cooking: Ikan Bakar (grilled fish), Ayam Goreng (fried chicken), rice enough to feed a village, boiled greens, eggplant, cassava curry in coconut milk and my favourite: boiled papaya flower buds.

I try to explain that I can’t possibly eat it all. She should scale down on the meals. My suggestion falls on deaf ears. The next makan time the table is sighing under the food again.  Either Ketty’s English is too small or her heart is too big. 

Exploring the Kei Islands

The Kei islands are the perfect place to relax and do as little as possible. Fishermen in the village can take you island hopping or fishing, you could finish that novel, or you can simply wallow in that gin-clear water in front of Coasters.

Ketty can arrange a scooter to rent at IDR 70 000 for the whole day. Only do this though if you have a license and are confident in driving a scooter. Some stretches of road are on gravel while others are peppered with potholes.

Ketty can provide you with a photocopied map of the island which will give you an idea of where to go. Use this map only as a guide though as some roads don’t exist or are in really bad shape.

Any road you take will reward you with one stunning beach after the other. Small colourful villages are scattered along the way where you can ask for directions when you get lost, and you will get lost. Certainly, make sure to stop at Evu spring to swim with the kids in the crystal clear and cool waters.

How to Get to the Kei Islands

I arrive in the Kei islands on the Pelni ferry after an incredible visit to the Banda islands.

It makes sense to combine the Bandas with the Keis as the Pelni continues towards the Kei islands from the Bandas anyway, rather than backtracking to Ambon. Bandaneira to Tual takes about 5-6 hours and tickets cost Rp 125 0000 in ekonomi and Rp 380 500 in second class.

By air, you first need to get to Ambon from where there are daily flights to Tual in the Kei Islands. Several flights a day connect Jakarta and Makassar with Ambon.

Getting to Coaster Cottages from Tual

A bemo (minibus) charter from Tual to Coasters go for about Rp 200 0000 but you’ll need to bargain of course. If travelling alone you can also get an ojek (motorbike with driver) which should be about Rp 100 0000.

Have you been to the Kei islands? Is this paradise or what? Let us know in the comments below.