December in Central Europe is undiluted magic, and if you’re dreaming of festive Christmas markets, stunning cities, and medieval towns, this two-week Austria and Czech Republic itinerary is for you.
Our journey takes us from Salzburg, city of Mozart and Maria von Trapp, and ends in Prague, the City of a Thousand Spires. In between, experience Vienna’s imperial grandeur, relax in Bohemia’s soothing spas, and explore the fairytale town of Český Krumlov.
If you dream of a European winter escape filled with history, culture, and festive spirit, this two-week Austria and Czech Republic itinerary in December is for you. Here’s exactly how we did it—and how you can, too!
Thank you to VisitCzechia and Karlovy Vary Region for hosting us in Bohemia. As always, views and opinions are our own.
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Our Two Weeks in Austria & Czech Republic
We wanted to spend Christmas somewhere that truly embraces the season with festive traditions. We wanted to go on museum marathons, ooh and aah over stunning architecture, and walk on pretty streets full of Christmas lights. For us, Austria and the Czech Republic stood out as two of the best places in Europe to experience that kind of Christmas.
Vienna and Prague were at the top of our list for their world-class museums, stunning architecture, and cultural heritage.
Food was just as important—we couldn’t wait to try Austrian schnitzel and sachertorte, Czech pork knuckle and trdelník, and, of course, plenty of Czech beer and glühwein in their natural habitat. As ex-pats living in the UAE at the time, we looked forward to pork sausages and having a real drink in public.
Beyond the capital cities, we looked for variety. We wanted to walk in medieval towns and explore quiet corners with some nature thrown in the mix. Visiting spa towns and smaller destinations like Loket and Holašovice let us experience something different while still getting that enviable Central European Christmas experience.
For transport, we took the train from Salzburg to Vienna, then to Prague. We booked our tickets on Omio.
After Prague, we shifted gears and rented a car for our Bohemian road trip, but trains and buses work too if you don’t want to or can’t drive. We love the freedom of a good old road trip, though.
We always use Discover Cars ourselves and recommend them for the best rates when renting a car.
In this post, I’ll outline our itinerary, keeping it concise. You can find links to our detailed posts on each destination in the sections below.
Salzburg: 2 Days
Maria von Trapp and Mozart would not have approved of our time in Salzburg. Sad but true.
A delayed flight from Dubai caused us to miss our connection, turning our dream of living our best Sound of Music lives in Salzburg into hours of listening to airport announcements about yet another departure delay.
By the time we finally arrived in Salzburg—38 hours behind schedule—the Christmas markets had already closed for the night. All we could do was take a beautiful walk down Getreidegasse, pass by Mozart’s house, and call it a night. We hope it never happens to you.
Where we stayed: Pension Elisabeth
Next stop: Train to Vienna (2.5 hours).
Vienna: 4 Days
Let me tell you, The City of Music is as classy as they say. Our four days in Vienna were packed with world-famous museums, magical Christmas markets, incredible food, and elegant vibes everywhere we turned.
We started with our DIY architecture tour, taking in Vienna’s most striking buildings. From the quirky Hundertwasserhaus and Kunsthaus Wien to Otto Wagner’s stunning Art Nouveau designs and the Secession Building with Klimt’s massive Beethoven Frieze, the city knows how to do architecture.
We spent hours in museums, and it was great. And we can easily do it again. At the Leopold Museum, we got to know Egon Schiele, and at the Belvedere, we oohed and aahed at Klimt’s golden lovers kissing.
The Kunsthistorisches Museum floored us with its vast Habsburg collection, and the Ephesos Museum stunned us with ancient Greco-Roman ruins from Türkiye. Few other cities do art like Vienna.
Few other places also do Christmas, like Vienna. Sparkling lights along the Graben and Kohlmarkt lead to storybook Christmas markets. And, of course, no visit is complete without a slice of cake in a historic coffeehouse or a hot dog from Bitzinger Würstelstand.
Where we stayed: Weekend Hotel
Next stop: Train to Prague (4 hours).
Prague: 4 Days
Goodbye, Austria—hello, Czechia! We swapped mumbling in German (a skill from my exchange student days in Germany) for speaking English since my Czech is nonexistent. We also switched from Euros to Czech Koruna.
Prague feels completely different from Vienna. Gothic spires replace elegant Art Nouveau lines, and it’s a little easier on the wallet. Happy days!
Four days in Prague gave us plenty of time to see and eat everything we wanted.
Visit Prague Castle and St. Vitus Cathedral before crossing the Charles Bridge, dodging hordes of tourists and street musicians. The nearby John Lennon Wall was a fun photo stop.
I returned to the Charles Bridge another day before sunrise for a more serene experience. If you want the same, come before the sun is out.
A highlight was our DIY walking tour of the Jewish Quarter, where we visited Prague’s six synagogues and the haunting Old Jewish Cemetery.
We also made time for the stunning Strahov Library, then capped off with a cold beer and hearty goulash at the Strahov Monastic Brewery.
No December visit is complete without the Old Town Square Christmas Market, where we sipped svařák and gorged on ham, langos, crepes and churros. Of course, you must also watch the Astronomical Clock do its thing.
Beyond that? Baroque churches, scenic viewpoints, funky street art—and yes, ridiculously cheap beer.
Where we stayed: Residence 44
Next stop: Drive to Mariánské Lázně ( 180 km – 2.5 hours)
Mariánské Lázně: 1 Day
We took the scenic route to West Bohemia, driving through oak forests and made a quick stop at Křivoklát Castle.
Mariánské Lázně was the perfect place to slow down after days of sightseeing. This elegant spa town (formerly known as Marienbad) is known for its healing mineral springs, grand colonnades, and old-world atmosphere.
Our stay at Esnana Svoboda Spa Hotel was a highlight of our Bohemia trip. We indulged in a Maria gas treatment, a hydro-jet massage, and plenty of time in the sauna and indoor pool as part of our wellness retreat. It was the kind of relaxation we didn’t know we needed. The buffet breakfast and dinner felt like eating at grandma’s house in the woods.
Of course, no visit here is complete without sipping the famous mineral water straight from the colonnades. There are several springs on tap, each with its own taste and medical benefits, so make sure to try them all. We balanced it out with crispy spa wafers, a local speciality.
A stroll around town is just beautiful, with lovely parks and Belle Epoque architecture. If you want more fresh air, I recommend the short hike along the Königswanderweg, a peaceful trail through the wooded hills with grand vistas over town.
Where we stayed: Ensana Svoboda
Next stop: Drive to Karlovy Vary (60 km – 1 hour).
Karlovy Vary: 2 Days
A short but stunning drive through the Slavkov Forest took us to Czechia’s most famous spa town. On the way, we stopped at the beautiful small town of Loket to see the castle and stroll around the colourful town square.
Karlovy Vary (the former Karlsbad) is the ultimate spa town escape. Much bigger and busier than Mariánské Lázně, we had to balance sightseeing with our spa routine.
We stayed at a swanky spa hotel, where we spent plenty of time unwinding in the sauna and swimming pool at night after sightseeing in the day. As you do in Bohemia’s most famous spa town.
The town has five colonnades with 13 mineral springs used for drinking cures and spa treatments. We tried them all. Some were easier to drink than others, but hey, it’s all part of the experience!
For a change of pace, we took a scenic walk through the woods to Deer Jump and Peter’s Height, where we got incredible views over Karlovy Vary. For an even higher vantage point, the Diana Funicular took us up to another scenic lookout.
To learn more about the town’s history, we joined a guided tour of Kaiserbad Spa, a beautifully restored bathhouse that gave us a glimpse into Karlovy Vary’s glamorous past.
If this all sounds too holistic and healthy, Goethe’s Beer House has various beers on tap that go down well with sausages. And for any James Bond fans, stopping by the Grand Hotel Pupp—a filming location for Casino Royale—is a must.
Where we stayed: Art Deco WOLKER
Next stop: Drive to Český Krumlov (250 km – 4 hours).
Český Krumlov: 2 Days
The drive from West to South Bohemia is smooth and scenic, with well-kept roads and charming stops along the way. We made quick photo breaks at Klášter and Blatná Castle before stopping in Holašovice, a UNESCO-listed village known for its beautifully preserved South Bohemian Folk Baroque farmsteads.
Arriving in Český Krumlov, we immediately saw why it’s considered one of Europe’s most beautiful towns. With red-roofed houses, winding cobbled streets, and a castle towering over the Vltava River, it looks straight out of a storybook.
There are plenty of stunning viewpoints around town, but the best (and busiest) is from the fifth courtyard of Český Krumlov Castle, where you get a panoramic view of the town sitting in the river’s bends.
Most visitors come on a day trip from Prague, but we stayed two nights to experience the town’s magic without the crowds, early in the morning and after dark, without the day-tripping hoi polloi.
Between drinking in the views and medieval vibes, we enjoyed a few real drinks at the Eggenberg Brewery and soaked up the festive spirit at the cosy yet lively Český Krumlov Christmas market.
Where we stayed: Boutique Hotel Romantick
Next stop: Drive to Prague Airport (190 km – 2.5 hours).
And that’s our two-week Austria and Czech Republic itinerary in December for you. Feel free to steal it. Drop us a message in the comments below if you have any questions
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